HDJ75 project (1 Viewer)

[Highlux11]

long time reader and browser here how ever hadnt made a single post so Thought I'd start a thread on my hzj75 which I just converted to be a "hdj75" (1hdt) last week.

I originally purchased the ute for 2k, which was a good deal IMO, it wasn't the prettiest rig as it hadnt been used in several years and had been in the weather so the windscreen frame and rear window frame had some rust issues, the rego had lapsed and had a collapsed rear diff pinion bearing. Long story short got the ute registered , and built it up from there.
I'll post photos of the build up over the last year which I've pretty much done all my self and set it up to be a work rig, I've taken quite a few photos so if you have any questions or wish to see some more shots let me know

Quick run down on the beast;

1994 hzj75

Driveline:

Engine is now a 1hdt (has been rebuilt at some stage with .5mm pistons - I've basically fitted a brand new head on which is a long story in it self)
Genuine 5 notch head gasket
Munro racing billet 18g ct26
XXI air intake box
HPD topmount intercooler with 9" spal fan (changing to a bigger set up soonish as intake temps are high!!)
Safari armax snorkel (changed to this from standard safari snorkel to have a 4" intake for the XXI air box)
ADS injection 200hp pump
ADS injectors
3" exhaust
1HDT flywheel / Isuzu clutch plate / 1hdt pressure plate mated to the H55 transmission (will be changing to h151 with NPC clutch soon)
Rebuilt rear LSD
33x12.5R15 hankook dynapro ATM on 15x8 rims
Dyno tuned to 204rwhp and 525Nm at 24ish PSI

Suspension:

2" extended shackles all round
Rear 2" 450kg EFS springs with 3" EFS shocks
Front 2" 150kg EFS springs with EFS shocks (need longer shocks and will change out soon)
Front axle moved forwards 1.5" by redrilling spring perches
New bushes through out

Body:

New genuine windscreen frame.
Repainted body / tray / tool boxes 055 white
Custom made tray with under tray trundle draw, custom made under tray tool boxes and ~25L under tray "PVC toilet pipe special tank" which I've hooked up to an electric pump / coil garden hose and nozzle which are mounted in on of the under tray tool boxs.
Bull tool boxes with custom made ally draws
Replaced bench seat set up with 2 x buckets and fitted a kzj70 centre console box
Made my own over head console
Genuine Toyota ally winch bull bar, modified steel winch plate which bolts to chassis with recovery hooks
Fold down vice In tray
Welded in a vdj bonnet scoop in to standard bonnet

Electrical:
3 x optima blue top batteries (1 x 12v , 2 for 24v) on a custom made bracket in engine bay
Red arc BCDC 12-24v charger
65L waeco fridge
2500watt 24v - 240v inverter
4 x work led lights on tray (2 rear facing and one each side)
Led tool box lights
8" led spotties
12000lb 4wd supa centre winch
1gauge display mounted in the factory subtank gauge housing on the dash
UHF radio mounted in the over head console


Have probably forgot a few things so I'll just post photos which tell the story better!

 

[Highlux11]

first tasks where rebuilding diff, and repairing / replacing rusty panels and then painting including underside and chassis

 

[Highlux11]

Making of over head console and the bucket seats were fitted

 

[Highlux11]

Making up my tray

 

[Highlux11]

Making under tray tool boxes and welding vdj v8 scoop in - I painted bonnet black temporarily with black spray cans....painting white is on the to do list

 

[Highlux11]

Bought 2 x 1hdts whilst I was back in NZ for a bit and shipped them back to Western Australia. 1 was a runner which is now fitted in the 75, other had run big end and didn't come with pump / injectors but had 4000km old genuine head.
Had ally draws made up for tool boxes. Bought a kzj70 console whilst in nz too and fitted that to the 75.
Start of the electrical set up in tool box

 

[Highlux11]

Munro turbo vs the standard ct26
Winch cradle and tow points
Fridge inside tool box with ally draw, led lights inside
Rebuilt 200hp pump and injectors

 

[Highlux11]

Fitted 2" efs lift kit and relocated frat axle forwards
Removed head from the running 1hdt as when I went to refit injectors one of the injector retainer threads / casting pulled so head was pretty much stuffed! Removed the 4000km old head from the non runner and had it checked, turned out #5 valves were pulling up, so head was pretty much rebuilt with 6 new intake valves,1 x exhaust after being machined / cleaned / new seals etc etc. fitted genuine 5 notch head gasket. Replaced big ends and con rod bolts just incase. Turned out the Engine had been rebuilt at some stage and had acl bearings fitted, .5mm os pistons

 

[Highlux11]

Fitted engine last week along with airbox, intercooler, provent catch, made 3" exhaust all the way to back, has 1 x hotdog type muffler under drivers door.
Need to have 1 x aircon line made up as airbox is now in the way (airbox is designed for hdj79 where the compressor lines go out the back?)

 

[Highlux11]

So yeah in the last week, done the above by fitting engine, exhaust etc etc. wired in the 1gauge...still need to check 24v input as it is supposed to display 24v reading under the 12v display. Need to make up a line with manifold to mount oil pressure senders (only standard gauge currently hooked up and not 1gauge). I bought a vdo adaptor that is a longish t piece with 1/8 bsp male / female thread to fit standard sender and had a 1/8npt side port for the vdo sender for gauge display how ever it's too long and hit the starter motor with the standard sender fitted to the end of it, so I bought a 45 degree 1/8 bsp to fit the vdo t piece too and then clear the starter but it became too long for my liking and didn't want to risk it so just left standard sender in place until I make something up to run 2 x senders remotely some where. Also made up a t piece on the top coolant outlet which has sender in it for 1gauge, other side goes to turbo as per standard fitment. The top outlet is from the 1hz engine as it has the sensor in the end of it for ac cut out at high temp.
Attached is dyno sheet too from yesterday. It's a bit rich down low (15ish afr) but 21ish afr up high so not bad, but bit smokey for liking especially until it warms up.

 

[RhinoRig]

DAMN nice!

 

[renago]

May I ask you what will the Munro turbo costs ?
Is it a plug and play unit or do you need to tune it ?
Is it right that you are running at 2,4 bar ?!!!

By Renago

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Great project!

 

[jomelo]

Love the black hood.

 

[Highlux11]

May I ask you what will the Munro turbo costs ?
Is it a plug and play unit or do you need to tune it ?
Is it right that you are running at 2,4 bar ?!!!

By Renago

This Munro turbo was $1150 aud. Can get a bit cheaper if you send your turbo and he builds it out of your one but he also does a few different versions or could build something totally custom / Wild so price can vary I guess depending on what you want. It is a direct bolt on replacement as in uses same oil/coolant lines and manifold flange. I guess you can just bolt the turbo on and run it but to get the most out of it you would want to tune it (more air would equal leaner air fuel ratio - not that its a bad thing but you could potentially have a lot more hp there just by tuning it) - in my case I had the pump built up to suit “200hp” so with just bolting on the turbo and pump it was already running 192hp on about 20psi (1.4 Bar).
It is now running at about 1.7 bar (24psi)

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

that thing is beast. I like your overhead. might have to copy that for my fj55 cab chassis

 

[Highlux11]

Havnt been able to do a lot lately, was away for work for the Xmas / new year period so will get stuck in to doing some things over the next week or so.
Today I refitted the sway front sway bar with some new bushes and Holden commodore (vt/vs) sway bar links.
They are pretty much the perfect length for 3" lift. I Chose the commodore links after researching quite a bit on different types of links and lengths, ended up choosing these due to the length and "s" shape (S shape because moved axle forwards 1.5"). As you can see they are not perfectly straight up and down but will do for now, may look at making some new top sway bar link mounts down the track to bring the top a bit closer to the shock. Lots of people were just saying leave the sway bar out but I want the thing to look as road worthy as possible. I will be relocating to NZ some time this year and will take it with me so need it to comply and pass road worthy checks / certification when I ship it over.

I have ordered bits and pieces to change out the intercooler for a bigger set up, because I'm a cheap ass and like tinkering I didn't want to buy a premade kit (HPD series II or cross country ultimate kits are 2k +)...anyway The intercooler turned up today, it's supposedly designed for a ford xr6 turbo falcon, its core is 450x300mm vs the 280x300mm HPD one that is currently fitted.
Sat it on top of the other intercooler roughly where I want it to sit, looks like I'll have to get creative with the heater tap and relocate it somehow. Not sure how I will mount it yet, I don't like the look of how cross country and HPD have mounted there's by running bars across the engine bay. I'm thinking I'll try make some brackets and mount with PTFE sheet or hollow rod to try and reduce heat transfer from the engine, looks like I could pick up some bolt holes on the inlet manifold and then on the other side there are 3 threaded holes in the head above the exhaust manfiold. I've ordered a 11" spal fan to mount on the new set up. Will also look at making some sort of shroud / air guide to force air from the bonnet scoop through the intercooler.
Would any one know what roughly the air intake temp would be on a standard 1hdt with cross over pipe? Obviously can vary a bit on ambient temps / different set ups but if any one has figures I'd be keen to know. I think with my current set up the intake temp is quite warm?...I'm used to working with bigger Diesel engines where the intake temp might be around 45-65c working hard.
The air intake temp is currently at its highest (around 70-80c - depends if I'm booting it or not) when driving at 100 / 110km, I think air flow through radiator / viscous fan will be fighting air coming through scoop which isn't ideal. Also the current intercooler is not ideally placed in the scoop so air flow would be crap as it would hit the side of the core and also can go around it / over it / under it because it's not sealed to bonnet / scoop in anyway. EGT's (post turbo) are around 320-350 at 100km....highest I've seen it so far giving it stick is 410c so the what I would consider high air intake temp doesn't seem to effect egt to much as I don't think my egt's are too high?

 

[Highlux11]

Dummied up the intercooler today, actually fits pretty good and don’t have to mod heater tap as it sits above it... it does sit quite high due to the inlet manifold adaptor and 90 degree silicone hose attached to it but in saying that so does the current smaller hpd one fitted. There’s only about a 15mm gap between the top of the intercooler and scoop/bonnet on both intercooler set ups.
I started making some brackets to mount it but have decided to fit 1” body lift spacers to get better air flow into The cooler so need to wait untill they arrive and are installed before finishing mounts. Have decided I’ll make a elbow type bracket / mount for each side that holds the intercooler and mounts to the fire wall / inner guards.
Was kind of hesitant to do a body lift due to having the modify the bullbar / winch cradle mounts to suit but I’ll just have to bite the bullet and do it.
Once I’ve put the body lift in I think I’ll remove the extended shackles as I do not think I’ll get in my garage door anymore plus it rides harsh with them in due to the angle.

 

[Indestructible 47]

very very nice build. i want to do a 1hdt in a 75 soon as well. any problems that you ran into?

 

[Highlux11]

very very nice build. i want to do a 1hdt in a 75 soon as well. any problems that you ran into?

Cheers mate.
No problems with the engine swap itself really, pretty much bolt in place. The only mods required to get a running / driving 1hdt conversion (from 1hz) would be the air intake pipe to turbo from air filter box (using airbox lid from a 1hdt vehicle is easiest) running a hose for brake booster from vacuum pump and exhaust from turbo back (could use standard exhaust and modify to fit turbo but wouldn't recommend it)
Use 1hz flywheel and clutch (or 1hdt flywheel and Isuzu clutch plate like I have) if using 1hz gearbox