HDJ75 project (1 Viewer)

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Cheers mate.
No problems with the engine swap itself really, pretty much bolt in place. The only mods required to get a running / driving 1hdt conversion (from 1hz) would be the air intake pipe to turbo from air filter box (using airbox lid from a 1hdt vehicle is easiest) running a hose for brake booster from vacuum pump and exhaust from turbo back (could use standard exhaust and modify to fit turbo but wouldn't recommend it)
Use 1hz flywheel and clutch (or 1hdt flywheel and Isuzu clutch plate like I have) if using 1hz gearbox
thanks mate, sounds easier than the 12h-t into a 40 which i did:):)
 
Done a few more things Over the last few days, I fitted 1" body lift to cab which ended up being a downright pain in the ass to do with the bolts being seized up In the crush tubes and accessibility to the rear ones wasn't to easy with fuel tank in...in hind site it would have been easier dropping the tank.
Then set about fitting up new intercooler with some industrial looking brackets (who cares right because no one really sees them! :rofl:) I was driving around for a day with the set up like that and noticed the intake temps had dropped a few degrees in comparison to the HPD already. Today I made up a shroud / dam so air is directed up on to intercooler core from scoop in the bonnet and then pretty much has to go through intercooler core. Not the prettiest but works well so far. Still have to remove and tidy up a few bits and pieces and then paint. Ideally I'm the future would like to make a better set up from aluminium. Anyway havnt been able to really test the set up with the shroud but I'd expect the the intake temps to drop a bit more especially at 100/105km cruising speed. I have noticed with this new intercooler the air intake temp drops down again a lot faster after giving it a good go with the right foot I think this is because of how the HPD intercooler core mounted directly on to the inlet manifold causing heat soak and now having silicone joiners in between isolating some heat transfer.
Also fitted a 25mm spacer to the front tail shaft, I mounted it on the transfer case end and also spun the tail shaft around so the thinner slip joint is over the cross member to give better clearance.

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What kind of info display ist that you have ? Does that also show AFR ?
It's called a 1gauge....www.1gauge.com.au
I had my display configured to show 2x voltage (12v / 24v) , inlet air temperature, boost pressure (or MAP), oil pressure, water temperature and exhaust temperature....but can show a few more things.
I believe it can show afr but have to buy an extra gauge or sender of some sort.
 
Havn't done too much lately, I had some aircon hoses made up to work around the air box and had the system re-gassed. Quite happy with the end result and it's good having AC again!
Went for a dune / beach 4wd run yesterday and it went really well, the torque is awesome and it can keep on pushing through sand and go up hills / dunes easily. Only issue I had was the intercooler elbow hose blew off the inlet manifold adaptor the 1 time it bogged down in the sand. Just happens to be the only conventional worm drive hose clamp in the piping system with all the others being t-bolt so will look at changing that out but have to find and use a thin banded one due to the short pipe / lack of clamping space on the adaptor hence why a normal hose clamp was used in the first place.
Also noticed when I was washing it down after the run that the door seals and door window seals leak quite a lot so will order and replace them.

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Wilbinga?
 
I recently done my rear brakes by replacing the discs, brake shoes and pads, I also fitted a set of extended park brake dogbones which deffinetly appears to have helped - I No longer have to leave in gear as a parking brake aid.:rofl:
Whilst I was there I fitted new rear wheel bearings and added 2 x 10mm axle dowels to each rear hub along with replacing the studs with 10.9 Allen key head bolts.

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Fitted some new wheels and tyres that I managed to get for a good deal. Wheels are 15x10 -50 and tyres are Toyo open country 35x13.5. Really happy with the tyres, they are quiet on road, but yet to test them off road. Deffinetly notice the extra effort required to turn these compared to the 33" AT's I had on before though. I had a wheel alignment done whilst these tyres were being fitted as I hadnt had it done since moving the front axle forwards. Alignment was deffinetly out as steering wheel wasn't centred after moving the axle, Anyway not sure if it's the tyres or the alignment or combination of both but it feels alot lighter in the steering and seems to have better lock now.
With the offset and tyres being 13.5 wide they obviously stick out a bit, so made up some new rear mud guards to cover them. Also fitted some new factory style front fibre glass flares which are 3" wide, the tyres still protruded about 1.5" past them so went and purchased some garden edging and fitted that to the flares which now covers the wheels. Doesn't look to bad either IMO.

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I also fitted a set of extended park brake dogbones which deffinetly appears to have helped - I No longer have to leave in gear as a parking brake aid.
Please tell more... never heard of them but sounds like a 'need to ' type mod given our rubbish hand brake
 
I found them on eBay by accident one day to suit most cruiser handbrakes
 
Please tell more... never heard of them but sounds like a 'need to ' type mod given our rubbish hand brake
Yeah they seem to be readily available from the likes of eBay (well here in Aus anyway)
Landcruiser 75 78 79 80 100 105 Series Hand Brake Extended Dogbone Upgrade | eBay
To be honest they probably don't do a hell of a lot.... More likely the adjustment process along with new shoes and drums/discs that made it better, however for the price of them you can't go wrong really.
 
Yeah they seem to be readily available from the likes of eBay (well here in Aus anyway)
Landcruiser 75 78 79 80 100 105 Series Hand Brake Extended Dogbone Upgrade | eBay
To be honest they probably don't do a hell of a lot.... More likely the adjustment process along with new shoes and drums/discs that made it better, however for the price of them you can't go wrong really.
Do you know if they work for both disc and drum brakes? I've searched and found plenty of occasions where they are definitely used on discs, but I don't know if the mechanism is the same
 
Do you know if they work for both disc and drum brakes? I've searched and found plenty of occasions where they are definitely used on discs, but I don't know if the mechanism is the same
I’m not too sure sorry. I can tell you that they work with discs anyway (drum hand brake obviously though). I would think drum brake versions have larger shoes than just the park brake shoes used in the disc option but the dogbones may be the same.
 
I’m not too sure sorry. I can tell you that they work with discs anyway (drum hand brake obviously though). I would think drum brake versions have larger shoes than just the park brake shoes used in the disc option but the dogbones may be the same.
i think i found out the answer is no... the ebay seller you linked showed a part number in a picture, and with that i could determine that it is only for disc brake models from the catalogue... the strut on the drum brake shoes (also the hand brake) is a different part number, I can now remember its visually distinct as well, and probably not something to tamper with anyway being the main brakes.

my handbrake isn't great but it isn't too bad... I'm thinking then that the disc brake models have considerably worse hand brakes than the drum brake models
 
How is the ride on your truck. I have bj75 with new ome light leafs springs on it. My ride is to firm? Springs are way too strong. I normally ride around with no extra load in the box.
 

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