Have FF and disks, check your bearings.

[Spook50]

I only just saw this thread, or I would have jumped on your case earlier.

You know what the best part off all this is? You were the one who made fun of me for taking my FF all apart “just to see how it works”

LOL,

Hey Greg, are you using GM components for your FF rear disc?

 

[Spike Strip]

what did the inner seal look like? was it chewed up or just worn? has anyone tried a speedy sleeve to the shaft to see if a bit extra diameter will help with the seal?

mine on the drivers was leaking but the passenger was fine.

Clint

I'd be interested in this, too... I have some trail spare FF rear axles and the short one has a hefty groove ... I was checking into speedy sleeve but need to take measurements and match one up.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't know if the grease seal on the back of the hub would keep the oil in...... I wanna say that it would leak out and contaiminate the brakes.

I do not know about that seal either, but the D60 & 14bff use the same general seal arrangement. Those on a friend's and my utility trailer using D60 outers on a tube axle weeped for just a little bit. By the end of the first trip they quit.

 

[Spook50]

I found this in the FAQ and figured I'd throw it in here for anyone interested:

TLC FAQ - 20.6 Rear Axle

 

[Spike Strip]

Handy info. Thanks, spook

 

[euclid]

I don't know if the grease seal on the back of the hub would keep the oil in...... I wanna say that it would leak out and contaiminate the brakes.

I'm sure my inner hub seal wouldn't hold oil in. It barely holds grease in. This seal mating surface was also a casualty of the craped out hub fiasco.

what did the inner seal look like? was it chewed up or just worn? has anyone tried a speedy sleeve to the shaft to see if a bit extra diameter will help with the seal?

mine on the drivers was leaking but the passenger was fine.

Clint

That's what I want to try next.

LOL,

Hey Greg, are you using GM components for your FF rear disc?

Yep, El Dorado. I bought the FF from Cory (sixty). It's his e-brake bracket pictured in the FAQ. I'm still running it. Works well enough to pass CM07 tech, so it's gotta be fine.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I don't know if this makes much of a difference, but my spindle is worn down a bunch and the only way to repair it is to have it welded and then turned down on a big lathe. I'm not sure if the inner seal surface is the same story or not. When the spindle is damaged in any way, one must make sure that it is still true before making repairs.

 

[ntsqd]

There are or is a service that can fix a spindle on the truck. Including lathe work. I saw a link either here or on ExPo to one such service.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

There are or is a service that can fix a spindle on the truck. Including lathe work. I saw a link either here or on ExPo to one such service.

I found one such service in MA but little other than that. Mind posting a link or two?

 

[Godwin]

has anyone tried a speedy sleeve to the shaft to see if a bit extra diameter will help with the seal?

Speedy sleeve if installed properly should work. I've had one on a SF axle shaft for a bunch of years and had no leakage.

 

[ntsqd]

I found one such service in MA but little other than that. Mind posting a link or two?

If I could remember where I saw the link......

I think this is it:
Axle & Spindle Repair.com • What We Do

Another:
Rear Housing Repair, truck repair, rear axle repair, spindle replacment
http://www.libertywelding.com/

 

[Hendrik]

Does anyone know of a source for a nicer oil seal for the full floater than the OEM one? Now that I have Marlins inner oil seal on the front I'm spoiled.

I've never heard of such a thing, but let me know if you find one!

Custom seals an option ?? Places like TRANSEALS (Transeals - Welcome!) and MHS (Mining and Hydraulics Supplies) will make you any seal from any material. Quickly.

Since I have a FF rear, too, I've been wondering if the Marlin front seal will work in the rear... I believe the axles are the same diameter, as the bearings are the same too ... But when I had mine apart, I didn't think to check it.

I looked at the parts book for Carquest (that's where my friends shop gets parts) and the front and rear part numbers are different. I think it's an internet rumor that the front and rear FF seal are the same.

I got bearing prices from Toyo (AUS) today and noted that front & rear, bearings AND seals have the same part # (here in Oz). They quoted me AUD $49.47 each for the inner and AUD $43.39 for the outer bearings.

 

[VTCruiser]

What kind of vibration was causing? I'm hunting a vibration right now. I was going to start with the d-shaft and work my way back but this makes me want to look at the axle so I don't chew up my spindle/hubs...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What kind of vibration was causing? I'm hunting a vibration right now. I was going to start with the d-shaft and work my way back but this makes me want to look at the axle so I don't chew up my spindle/hubs...

I'd say pull the hubs off and repack anyway. Believe me, dealing with a worn out bearing race on the spindle is a pain in the A$$. Ask me how I know....

 

[ntsqd]

I looked at the parts book for Carquest (that's where my friends shop gets parts) and the front and rear part numbers are different. I think it's an internet rumor that the front and rear FF seal are the same.

As a point of reference in trying to get Wallace ready for going to Calico this weekend I just bought a seal locally last night. Figuring that they would not have a listing for a FF rear I gave the Carquest parts person the front Mini application. ID fit on the spindle as a seal should and the OD was a press fit into the hub. Width appears to be right. With the drum brakes in place I can't see exactly where the lip is wiping on the shoulder, but since there is drag I'm reasonably certain that it is going to seal.

Now to build a tool so that I can set the bearing pre-load tonight.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

I looked at the parts book for Carquest (that's where my friends shop gets parts) and the front and rear part numbers are different. I think it's an internet rumor that the front and rear FF seal are the same.

Inner axle seals ---> NOT the same, while the ID is close, the OD on the rear FF shaft seal is much smaller and is 100% rubber with a spring versus the front seals that are a metal/rubber/spring system.

Wheel Seal - aka hub seal - aka bearing seal ---> SAME for older FF's ONLY. The 80 Series FF uses very similar wheel seal however it has a dust flange built in as the newer FF's don't have the dust seal that bolts on to the housing. So to clarify the wheel seal from a 76-97' 40/55/60/80 or 79-85 mini/4R is the same as a early thru 90' full-float. Verified over and over

 

[euclid]

Update:

I had my 3rd member rebuilt localy a few months ago. New bearings throughout. Re-installed my lock right in the 3rd.

There are some other issues with my truck that have kept me from any wheeling, so it's been in DD service since I picked it up from the shop.

Yesterday when I was pulling away from work, perfectly flat paved surface I sheard off all of the hub studs on the long side.

I'm thinking I proved this post right because the shop used silicone.

I think I'm going to get another hub and build it using upgraded ARP studs and an extra set of dowels.

I'll take the old one to a machine shop later on and have them get the studs out since they all broke down below the thread surface then I can build the short side. Then I'll have a spare one.

Has anyone sorted out what size speedi sleeve should be used for the inner hub bearing?

I need to drive my truck for the week or so that its going to take to get the parts together. Can anyone think of a reason I couldn't plug the empty hole and drive it? Should I drive it in 4WD to make things eaiser on the auto locker?

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW I am very early into testing Hylomar sealant in place of the FF's rear axle flange gasket. So far so good, but I only have about 500 miles of towing the TrailBlazer and maybe another 150 of not towing on the whole rear axle. Early-on one side spit a little Hylomar, but it has not leaked grease or oil.

How often do folks check the cone washer nuts for being tight?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I never check my studs, but it's on my maintenance list when I grease the whole thing in a few weeks.

Euclid, you should be able to drive the truck as long as you can plug the open end up really well. I wouldn't run it in 4wd either, you should be good.

Speedi sleeve for the inner bearing race? Never figured that out. I had my outer race professionally welded and machined when I had to repair mine.

 

[euclid]

Found a rubber plug that fits in there pretty tight. I'm going to be as conservitive as possible on the miles in the meantime.