I'm just struggling to justify spending thousands of dollars on a new oem unit when there's so many cheaper universal options out there. But deep down something tells me that the 100's just wont accept a non cybernetic combo unit that costs me a months wages before taxes are taken out. I mean I can get an open box universal unit, lines, a line bending tool, a flaring tool and dot 5.1 fluid for like 1/9 the cost of replacing the stock unit with new oem...someone please help me, I love my hundy, but cant afford this nonsense.
has anyone replaced the 100 series' abs/master cylinder with a universal one?
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There are a bunch of straight forward rebuild options now that are fractions of the cost, lots of resources posted on the forum here.
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Would you be an ubermensch and link me or give me keywords?
And also just for others reading this I'm currently in a situation where I know the m/c is working but the braking action isn't strong or what I feel isn't being "boosted" . This is on a 01 lx470 with about 208 thousand miles on the clock? I drove it for years where the chime would blare and I would get abs and vsc lights but it always stopped fine. If I pumped the brakes until I heard the pump then held the pedal down until the pump stopped making noise the lights and chime would go off.
Well the other day like I said the pedal traveled down farther then normal (a lot but not to the floor) and the chime and lights were on and I can no longer pump the brakes to get the pump to activate. lucky me, I was in the driveway. I pulled some codes;c1223 ABS control system malfunction, c1251 pump motor is locked/open circuit in pump ground,c1252 hydro-booster pump motor, and c1256 accumulator low pressure.
Also to add flavor to this mystery, it looks like the po's attempted to seal out some water intrusion (ask me how I know...no don't I'm gonna tell you anyway) because there's what looks to be common household construction foam along the roof seem,the roof racks front driver sides bolts are exposed (have been since purchase) and there's mysterious over spray on the whinshield and front dr side fender. Again not my doing. Also windshield area rust.
So, I dunno .
And also just for others reading this I'm currently in a situation where I know the m/c is working but the braking action isn't strong or what I feel isn't being "boosted" . This is on a 01 lx470 with about 208 thousand miles on the clock? I drove it for years where the chime would blare and I would get abs and vsc lights but it always stopped fine. If I pumped the brakes until I heard the pump then held the pedal down until the pump stopped making noise the lights and chime would go off.
Well the other day like I said the pedal traveled down farther then normal (a lot but not to the floor) and the chime and lights were on and I can no longer pump the brakes to get the pump to activate. lucky me, I was in the driveway. I pulled some codes;c1223 ABS control system malfunction, c1251 pump motor is locked/open circuit in pump ground,c1252 hydro-booster pump motor, and c1256 accumulator low pressure.
Also to add flavor to this mystery, it looks like the po's attempted to seal out some water intrusion (ask me how I know...no don't I'm gonna tell you anyway) because there's what looks to be common household construction foam along the roof seem,the roof racks front driver sides bolts are exposed (have been since purchase) and there's mysterious over spray on the whinshield and front dr side fender. Again not my doing. Also windshield area rust.
So, I dunno .
DIY fits the "budget" part of the request: Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-cylinder-rebuild-diy.406533/
Second thread with a pile of places that can do rebuilds: ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/abs-booster-pump-repair-or-replace-part-sources-rebuild-in-dfw-tx.992375/
Second thread with a pile of places that can do rebuilds: ABS Booster Pump - Repair or Replace? Part Sources? Rebuild in DFW, TX - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/abs-booster-pump-repair-or-replace-part-sources-rebuild-in-dfw-tx.992375/
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It sounds like there is an issue with the booster motor and the master cylinder piston, also the accumulator. You can look for booster motor replacements and master cylinder rebuild kits, the motor is about $150-300, you can get them with an accumulator attached for like $150-300 more. The master cyl rebuild kit is around $70 from Toyota. There may be corrosion build up on the power attachments from the master being overfilled. When its too full it leaks out of the res, gets onto the screws and they corrode, eventually bridging over to each other and partially shorting. The motor goes bad because of this.
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- #7
It's not a $65k vehicle anymore, it's a rust belt survivor with almost 210,000 on the odometer and people don't want to pay anything close to book value in my area for ones WITH working brakes. But thank you for that input. I'll keep it in mind as I continue to look for any option but replacing it with a new unit ,because sensible.
Camotubebender
SILVER Star
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- #9
404 not found, but thank you for the effort.
OEM Brake Booster Pump for Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, Tundra
Brake booster pump with accumulator for the Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, and Tundra. Genuine Toyota OEM part; part # 47070-60010.This is a wear item that usually requires replacement as the truck reaches 150K miles. Applications: '98 to '07 Land Cruiser 100 Series '00 to '02 4Runner...
www.cityracerllc.com
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok so at this pooint I've found a mc/rebuild "oem toyota" on ebay for pretty cheap and sourced a abs motor for 465 (fu inflation). Anyone have any other suggestions? or is this the cheapest best option without installing an aftermarket universal m/c booster combo trying to remove the abs circuit entirely? I could role the dice on a used unit but the cheapest options come out of the gs400's300,s etc...are they the same I'm thinking the bore must be different to accommodate the 2200 extra pounds of the lx ?
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- #12
Thank you.OEM Brake Booster Pump for Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, Tundra
Brake booster pump with accumulator for the Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series, 4Runner, and Tundra. Genuine Toyota OEM part; part # 47070-60010.This is a wear item that usually requires replacement as the truck reaches 150K miles. Applications: '98 to '07 Land Cruiser 100 Series '00 to '02 4Runner...www.cityracerllc.com
I'm surprised not one mud member has actually tried to put a non abs master on a abs 100 with all the brake issues out there and the low price of the non abs.
I've had mad issues with the brake system and posted here before about it.
I've installed rebuilt motor, and still have squeal I think from accumulator. So I got a new accumulator but no idea how to install it. Just unscrew old one? Is there pressure built up?
I really don't wanna have to remove the whole unit again.
Probably end up taking to a shop to have the accumulator fitted and then see what happens.
@kingdom77 can you pls link the non abs replacement you are talking about? Cheers
I've installed rebuilt motor, and still have squeal I think from accumulator. So I got a new accumulator but no idea how to install it. Just unscrew old one? Is there pressure built up?
I really don't wanna have to remove the whole unit again.
Probably end up taking to a shop to have the accumulator fitted and then see what happens.
@kingdom77 can you pls link the non abs replacement you are talking about? Cheers
I assume they're talking about the vacuum booster available on the 105s. Just as expensive to get here to the states (~$700), but perhaps there's a local there that's attempted the swap. Since you guys get all the coolest cruisers
Would a booster or master cylinder issue cause a warped rotor type brake feel? I’ve always thought it was a rotor issue but now I’m beginning to think there are pressure imbalance because the wobble will go away in certain situations.
I just swapped out my whole assembly yesterday. Got the whole complete unit for 1200 shipped from a dealer back East. I didn’t want to deal with the rebuild issues and figured it should last another 20 years. Was actually surprised how quick and easy the project was. Would have been about a hour except I was dealing with techstream trying to get the bleeding to work. Finally said screw it and did it the old fashioned way and it was no problem.
As far as the non abs, I just came across them on eBay and I believe it’s from the Australia trucks. I was hoping it was alternative route but couldn’t find anyone that did it.
The units got cheap a few months ago, randomly. Annoys me because I dealt with an on and off issue couldn't track down for almost 2 yrs. Didn't want to drop the 2100ish bucks, but if it was 1200 I would have done that right away and saved myself a bunch of time. I got my actuator replaced (see PSA below) which ended up being the issue after doing the pump and master myself, but part of me wants to buy one and keep it in the garage under the assumption I keep the truck for 20 more years since I assume I'll need one at some point.
PSA to everyone else. There's a guy on the FB group who rebuilds them. Andy Le I want to say. Will save you about 50% vs a new one, even at the cheaper prices they are going for all of a sudden.
Mine was leaking from the abs area which I guess isn’t rebuildable. After hearing that there was a part that couldn’t be rebuilt that made the decision easy for my case. This is really the first vehicle that I have ever replaced anything that breaks with OEM parts.
Yeah, actuator isn't rebuildable. Same issue I had. Andy Le replaced the actuator with a different one.
It was economical and he's a good guy. He did save me a bunch of money. Still (and I'm being repetitive) if a new one was 1200 I'd have bought that, haha.
