has anyone replaced the 100 series' abs/master cylinder with a universal one?

[Cruiser888]

@saucebox yeah accumulator probably same thing as booster. It's a 105 Aussie cruiser. It's the cylindrical thing that sits up top. It's got a thread so it's supposed to be unscrewed, and I could probably use an oil filter removing tool.

Thing is, what's the process to bleed it all once it's back on? I know to make sure it's filled as the level lowers while you bleed front and back brakes, but is there a special procedure to bleed the pump, master cylinder, and accumulator?

EDIT: found manual, says:

If the hydraulic brake booster has been disassembled, discon-
nect the brake line from the hydraulic brake booster or if the res-
ervoir becomes empty, bleed the hydraulic brake booster.

And it says to use proper DLC3 hand held testing tool, and proper ABS Actuator Checker during the process of bleeding.

I wish it was just as simple as putting fluid and pressure from the pedal through the system. Guess I need to take it to a bloody shop.


Cheers fellas. Almost at the end of this ABS journey through hell.

 

[Les Summer]

It would be greatly appreciated if anybody could point me to the proper direction if there’s a thread that exists where people are talking about what mileages they replaced their brake master cylinder how long do these things last and should I start saving for one now? 285k 2000 LC 100 is mine.

 

[baltistyle]

It would be greatly appreciated if anybody could point me to the proper direction if there’s a thread that exists where people are talking about what mileages they replaced their brake master cylinder how long do these things last and should I start saving for one now? 285k 2000 LC 100 is mine.

I have not watched it in awhile but there is a very good video on YouTube with the bleeding procedure that basically allows the pump to do the bleed for you. It lists the times that are acceptable for time at startup, whether a whine is associated, as well as some other good tips. they do use a computer for abs but I used a trick below.

Many time these parts should be filled on the bench. You can bleed these parts by loosening connected lines while in the car. Basically get them filled as much as possible. Then bleed a bunch of times. When it gets as good as you can get it, I took mine to a dirt area where I could activate abs a few times by stopping hard. Activating the abs bleeds that system. I think I did this two or three times.(loosening pipes at engine bay components, bleeding and "skidding") Yes the computers can help but you can get there without. I had to do this when replacing all the front lines in the engine bay and some rear lines on an older LC100. YMMV

Im in Baltimore as well if and if you think I could be of help sometime, reach out.

 

[SteveH]

@Les Summer - mine pooped out at 309K, 1000 miles after I bought the truck. I replaced with OEM and wouldn't go any other way. How long they last (I think) depends on whether it was driven as a highway vehicle or a door-dash vehicle. Frequent stops = more motor run time. The brushes on my motor wore out and took out the commutator. But, the rest of the system was original, and I didn't want to install a motor, and then have the accumulator and master cylinder fail a few months later. That was my reasoning.

 

[Dirt J]

It would be greatly appreciated if anybody could point me to the proper direction if there’s a thread that exists where people are talking about what mileages they replaced their brake master cylinder how long do these things last and should I start saving for one now? 285k 2000 LC 100 is mine.

315k on mine when pooped. Ordered new replacement from Toyota. Buy once, cry once.

 

[Les Summer]

I have not watched it in awhile but there is a very good video on YouTube with the bleeding procedure that basically allows the pump to do the bleed for you. It lists the times that are acceptable for time at startup, whether a whine is associated, as well as some other good tips. they do use a computer for abs but I used a trick below.

Many time these parts should be filled on the bench. You can bleed these parts by loosening connected lines while in the car. Basically get them filled as much as possible. Then bleed a bunch of times. When it gets as good as you can get it, I took mine to a dirt area where I could activate abs a few times by stopping hard. Activating the abs bleeds that system. I think I did this two or three times.(loosening pipes at engine bay components, bleeding and "skidding") Yes the computers can help but you can get there without. I had to do this when replacing all the front lines in the engine bay and some rear lines on an older LC100. YMMV

Im in Baltimore as well if and if you think I could be of help sometime, reach out.

Thank you, greatly appreciated!

 

[Les Summer]

@Les Summer - mine pooped out at 309K, 1000 miles after I bought the truck. I replaced with OEM and wouldn't go any other way. How long they last (I think) depends on whether it was driven as a highway vehicle or a door-dash vehicle. Frequent stops = more motor run time. The brushes on my motor wore out and took out the commutator. But, the rest of the system was original, and I didn't want to install a motor, and then have the accumulator and master cylinder fail a few months later. That was my reasoning.

I was looking at mine today. It looks like it could have 24 years of crud on it. like everything else when I bought this truck, probably original. i wouldn't mess around either, i'd just replace the whole thing with OEM. only way to go.