Did it fix your lose steering ? They are only $350....
Way cheaper than rebuilding at the dealer
Way cheaper than rebuilding at the dealer
Has anyone bought a reman steering gear box from Oreilly etc?
- Thread starter aggiepaintrain
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maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Rebuild it yourself. Don’t give up your core if you do buy one.
- Thread starter
- #3
parts are $800
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Following because I’m facing the same issue. My box is pouring. Rockauto has a LARES reman for $202 ($225 core). At that price I’m really debating if it’s worth my time to try and pull it all apart
Buy a used one from a part out, rebuild that o e and sell yours to the next diy rebuilder
- Thread starter
- #8
I’m talking about a new shaft not the seals and gaskets. I’ve done the west texas off-road “fix, non fix” before.
Let me rephrase, does anyone know if a remanufactured gear box comes with a remanufactured shaft? That’s what is causing the problems, new seals and gaskets do not fix the underlying issue which is a worn out shaft.
Let me rephrase, does anyone know if a remanufactured gear box comes with a remanufactured shaft? That’s what is causing the problems, new seals and gaskets do not fix the underlying issue which is a worn out shaft.
Usually they will rebuild it the most cost effective way to maximize their profits.
If you're going to do a new shaft you should do the upgrade to the bigger one
If you're going to do a new shaft you should do the upgrade to the bigger one
Don't quote me but I believe we can use a box from a 105 series that has a bigger shaft, maybe a good option would be finding a remanufactured box from a 105 series because everyone loves a bigger shaft 
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So, you are thinking the re-builder is using $800 in parts, then the parts store is retailing it for $350? In most cases, all that is needed is a seal kit and properly setting the preloads. Other than twisted sector shaft (these are known before hand), only recall a couple of bad cores, one of those was an excessivly worn housing.
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Don't know how you would "remanufacture" a shaft? Likely best to simply buy a new box from Toyota.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Buy a used box on here and reseal it then.
Hopefully someone has an answer for you on that oreilly reman but I'd think you'd be ahead with anything but.
Hopefully someone has an answer for you on that oreilly reman but I'd think you'd be ahead with anything but.
I rebuilt mine but the shaft would not seal recourse of rust, then I got one from RockAuto and its been fine.
All, have very sloppy steering on my '96 LC and the adjustment nut is bottomed out. It is to the point where I do not even go on the highway unless I must. Rest of front end is tight. Read many posts regarding steering box replacement and am going to give a RockAuto unit a try. WTG seems only to seal up th boxes, and a Toyota new or rebuild is way to expensive. So, any recommendation on the options? They have AC Delco, Cardone, and Lares; any experience here?
I would avoid anything Cardone at all costs. I have used a Lares reman PS box for a Ford Explorer and a Lares pump for my '83 Chevy, and both worked well. They are a US-based rebuilder and seem to have a clue. The PS pump is the first aftermarket pump I have ever seen that actually produces plenty of boost/pressure.
All, quick update on this repair. Got a Lares remanufactured unit from RockAuto and installed in truck, was relatively straightforward. So my son gets in LC and heads off to Nashville from NJ and I breath a sigh of relief that I have one less car and he is happy to be off to a new life adventure. Steering was tight for the first time after owning the 80 for over ten years but a couple hundred miles into the trip steering gets really hard and a quick trip to a mechanic finds a major leak in the steering box. He grabs a couple containers of ATF fluid and limps back to NJ. I pull the box (again) and find the adjustment loose and the sealing washer destroyed. Seems Lares did not tighten the locking nut and it worked itself loose. So, seems to be okay now but what a (dirty word for poop)show; something to check when you put a new box in. Cheers mates.
Woofythewolf
SILVER Star
How has that held up over the last couple years in terms of tightness? My box doesn't even leak despite 300k+ miles, it's just extremely sloppy and I ran out of adjustment last time I adjusted it maybe 3-4 years ago.
I'm actually looking at getting their new, made in the USA steering box, it's $416 on rockauto and has the larger sector shaft. I called them and they said it's 1.42 inches, or 36 mm in diameter.
Of course, that also means I need the new larger pitman arm as well which I believe is part number 45411-60360 for us LHD people.
I bought some rebuild kits from Rock Auto on closeout. Comes with all the seals and gaskets. Been working well for for over 100k miles.
There is a teflon or similar seal that goes around the large piston (acts like a piston ring) that you have to be careful with when putting the piston back into the cylinder. It is easily sliced and the kit only comes with one.
There is a teflon or similar seal that goes around the large piston (acts like a piston ring) that you have to be careful with when putting the piston back into the cylinder. It is easily sliced and the kit only comes with one.
Woofythewolf
SILVER Star
My issue isn't lack of assist or leaks or anything, it's just the internals are worn out.
I'd guess I need to source slightly oversized ball bearings at the very least which would help with the ballscrew:
Maybe I could just try measuring the endplay of the ballscrew block on the worm, and do some trig to calculate the new ball size?
I'm sure adjusting the preload on the ballscrew thrust bearing would help a little as well.
But in the end it seems like my sector shaft teeth and piston teeth are worn out since the screw is bottomed out. Given that the piston is supported by its own bore, larger balls in the ballscrew aren't going to recenter it in it's bore to get it closer to the sector shaft or anything like that.
I could put the sector shaft in the lathe and take off a little under the teeth (just under the teeth, that's where it rests on the casing to limit the travel) to be able to move it down further, but I'm not confident in getting a good surface finish cutting hardened material like this.
Edit: just remembered that it's floating by the adjuster screw. No need for good surface finish, it's not a bearing surface.
I'd guess I need to source slightly oversized ball bearings at the very least which would help with the ballscrew:
Maybe I could just try measuring the endplay of the ballscrew block on the worm, and do some trig to calculate the new ball size?
I'm sure adjusting the preload on the ballscrew thrust bearing would help a little as well.
But in the end it seems like my sector shaft teeth and piston teeth are worn out since the screw is bottomed out. Given that the piston is supported by its own bore, larger balls in the ballscrew aren't going to recenter it in it's bore to get it closer to the sector shaft or anything like that.
I could put the sector shaft in the lathe and take off a little under the teeth (just under the teeth, that's where it rests on the casing to limit the travel) to be able to move it down further, but I'm not confident in getting a good surface finish cutting hardened material like this.
Edit: just remembered that it's floating by the adjuster screw. No need for good surface finish, it's not a bearing surface.
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