I've had a few questions as to how I built my harness so I thought I would share the information here. Hopefully it serves to aid somebody building something at home and expand their knowledge and/or confidence. Most of this information was gleaned from this site, and I personally extend my grateful appreciation for those who have shared. I have a highly modified franken-cruiser that I take pride in improving when I have the budget and band-aiding when I don't. I get copious amounts of joy in fixing or making something for exponentially less what I would have paid someone else for.
To build the same harnesses I did for my FJ62, you will need four relays. I use cheap ones from ebay because they are inexpensive and abundant. I think I have five in my spare parts bin although I have never needed to replace one. I'd find the relays that come with the sockets and have a reasonable gauge wire. Because this is a short run to the fuse block, 12ga or 10ga wire will work. I would not run 14ga wire for anything but the relay controls.
To adapt (and avoid cutting the OEM harness) I used a pair these
Sealed Beam to H4 adapters that came with my H4 housings. I used the factory harness side of these to adapt the harness to the relays. You can find them much cheaper than $14.
I used four
Hi Temp H4 connectors to adapt the output of the harness to the four headlights.
Post #33 has the relay set-up for the harness that you need to make. Remember that you need to make two of them, one for each side. Note that this diagram has an image of the connector that is as you are looking at the plug on the vehicle side (which is confusing because everything else has been back of the bulb view)
A pinout of the H4/9003 and the sealed beam connectors. This helps.
I did not buy special waterproof connectors as I don't do deep water crossings. I did put everything into wire looms and used plenty of good electrical tape. I soldered all of the splices and used relay sockets. If you want to take it a step further, you can get butyl tape from grainger.
Despite having 20 years of experience in electronics, I still like to spot check what the diagram says, and what actually exists. For instance, I connected 12V to the lo beam connector and ground to the common connector and verified that the light output of the sealed beam and H4 both had the appropriate cutoff in the light pattern. Then I knew that the diagram was correct.
Using two adapters allows you some flexibility. For instance, you could leave in the R/L separation, or you could set it up so that one adpater runs the inners, while the other runs the outers.