Harmonic Balancer Technical question

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Jim...

Felicity knows her stuff. Ask her for a detailed drawing with tech notes and you'll be all set. She's like a walking FSM.
Stop Ryan! Too much. Thank you tho. I still very much beg down to others here before telling anyone to take my word. :)
 
Just
View attachment 1376541 View attachment 1376540 View attachment 1376535 So I'm sitting in my shop having a beer contemplating my options. And then it hit me...I think I have a spare Harmonic Balancer in one of these parts boxes on my shelves. Kept thinking and thinking (it's a pain to rummage through them all) and then it hit me. The Amarillo parts cruiser I picked up a few years ago. Went right to that box and bingo!!! Has a bit of rust, but does not look to have any seal wear marks. Any suggestions on what to use to clean it up? Don't want to screw up the seal surface area.
Felicity, would still like to hear from you when you have time. Want to pick your brain on this project.

Thanks for yall's input. Jim
I would simply clean it w/ steel wool but stay away from the sealing area. Others I've seen some have even painted them. I don't think @JamesR did his but the one he replaced was red if I'm remembering his pics right. My son is asleep in my lap fighting a stomach bug and fever so making any calls tonight is a no go. (It's just me and him, his dad and I aren't together). I did read that there's some places that will rerubberize them too... not sure how that side of yours look.
 
I will be honest here... the inner surface of mines shaft had pitting and scratches from my crank nose that had bubbling on the surface. The PO had a garage put it on (it was a used hub from cruiser parts only months before) w/o a key and clearly used a BFH to do it. Then they spot welded it on. I had to cut through the welds to get the nut to turn. I have ugly pics on my desktop... So I took my dremel and a soft stone bit and gently sanded the scratches and bumps of metal off the inner shaft. I remember texting pics to Ryan... there really wasn't much choice as I wasn't going to buy another. I also took wd40 and fine sand paper and gently sanded the bumps on the crank nose.... I had to do other stuff too that Ryan knows all about.... as he said, I won't share as I'm not up w/ the wrath from the gurus. ;)
 
Well in spoke too soon. Hit it with steel wool and it does have the same issue. Only deeper. Actually catches my finger nail once I removed the rust. Two options from here...reposition the seal (picking one up tomorrow) or the after market deal Felicity is showing me.
 
You could also send out for rebuild, if you have the time.

new home page H.B.
Will save my other one for the rebuild option. Would this be the job for a machine shop? Felicity is helping me with the sleeve so I can get this cruiser out of the shop. My oldest will be home this weekend and he needs the lift to work on a frame swap with his 60.
 
Since you will have the extra seal, I'd try setting the seal a little shallower in the timing gear housing. If it fails, you will need to live with the leak, pull the balancer again then use a speedi sleeve, or buy a newer used balancer with no grooves.

I'd try those options in a row, but if you want it fixed for good this time, use the speedi sleeve. It gets installed on the balancer, which is where the sealing surface is. Simple trick, bake the speedi sleeve in the oven at 200 or 250 for 30 min and it should just slip over the balancer.
 
Since you will have the extra seal, I'd try setting the seal a little shallower in the timing gear housing. If it fails, you will need to live with the leak, pull the balancer again then use a speedi sleeve, or buy a newer used balancer with no grooves.

I'd try those options in a row, but if you want it fixed for good this time, use the speedi sleeve. It gets installed on the balancer, which is where the sealing surface is. Simple trick, bake the speedi sleeve in the oven at 200 or 250 for 30 min and it should just slip over the balancer.
Thanks Johnny. I agree with the Speedy Sleeve. Talked with Felicity at length and she explained the process (dummied it down so I could understand :). I'm definitely going this direction and like the oven tip.
 
Speedi-sleeve is a great way to go! We've used plenty of them without issues.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
Georg, quick question. Did you have to remove the flange on the speedi sleeve? In looking at it it seems it would stay inside the seal and timing cover. I'm guessing it would be best to remove and understand I need to make a cut in the flange prior to intall. Look forward to your feedback. Thanks, Jim
 
Georg, quick question. Did you have to remove the flange on the speedi sleeve? In looking at it it seems it would stay inside the seal and timing cover. I'm guessing it would be best to remove and understand I need to make a cut in the flange prior to intall. Look forward to your feedback. Thanks, Jim
@orangefj45
 
@orangefj45
Georg, what tool are you using to peel this flange off with? Not a lot of room to work with as the flange is below the inner edge of the HB. My needle nose plyers keep slipping off. I'm afraid to get too aggressive as I don't want to mess up the sleeve. Thanks, Jim
 
@orangefj45
Georg, what tool are you using to peel this flange off with? Not a lot of room to work with as the flange is below the inner edge of the HB. My needle nose plyers keep slipping off. I'm afraid to get too aggressive as I don't want to mess up the sleeve. Thanks, Jim
Another thought...can I just make several cuts around the flange and flatten it out (towards the HB)? Would seem this sits far enough outside the seal that it would not interfere. Thoughts?
 
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