H55F/Split TC/no parking brake into 78FJ40

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woytovich

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Well I got my H55F/Split TC/no parking brake into my 78FJ40 without interfering with the curved X member... well, so far anyway. It looks like I'll have no trouble running a driveshaft (I hand fitted one up and it clears the X member) but I do not have a tranny support X member under the tranny yet - I suspect that will raise it up a little bit... but I don't think enough to matter.

My driveshaft length looks like it's going to be just about 19". I was considering moving the rear axle back or flipping the rear springs (to move the center pin rearward) but I don't think this will be necessary given the 19" static measurement.

I believe I will need to get a DS shortened though...

Thoughts are welcome...
 
Not much to look at... not like the west coast folks with their pretty, pristine frames and powder coated trannys... ;-)

You can't see it here but I can put my hand between the transfer output flange and the curved X member with room to spare...
IMG_3480.webp
 
I heated my crossmember and put a small clearance dent in it the uni joint is the issue.

IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - H55/Splitcase into 02/79-40 Series

It's good to get a heads up on the parking brake interference issue... I WAS going to convert from the under dash PB lever to the floor mounted one (I have a complete cut out from a 60) but now I see I need to be aware of all of this (given the rear exiting top cover to my H55). Plus I'd like to fit up a Tuffy console.... It looks like I MIGHT need to abandon the floor mount brake... we'll see once I trial fit the tub and tranny hump)

By the way I am planning on adapting a stock steel hump to go in the Aqualu tub (I HATE that square hump look)

Mark
 
It's good to get a heads up on the parking brake interference issue... I WAS going to convert from the under dash PB lever to the floor mounted one (I have a complete cut out from a 60) but now I see I need to be aware of all of this (given the rear exiting top cover to my H55). Plus I'd like to fit up a Tuffy console.... It looks like I MIGHT need to abandon the floor mount brake... we'll see once I trial fit the tub and tranny hump)

By the way I am planning on adapting a stock steel hump to go in the Aqualu tub (I HATE that square hump look)

Mark

Also from your 1st post, your thinking of moving the rear back, I re drilled the spring perches to move the axle back 40mm. Simple to do and fits 35's far better in the arch.
 
Do you have pics of the front perches of the rear springs?

You also need to re-drill the hole in the shackle plate to match too don't forget the same amount. The new hole is forward of the old hole, this in turn moves the axle back. 40-50mm hole center to hole center.

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You also need to re-drill the hole in the shackle plate to match too don't forget the same amount. The new hole is forward of the old hole, this in turn moves the axle back. 40-50mm hole center to hole center.

Ok, now I'm confused.... you both moved the spring perches that attach to the frame AND you redrilled the mount on top of the axle? I don't know if I like moving the spring to off center on the axle mount......
 
Mark, reread matt's post. All that is done is drilling. The perch and the ubolt plate where the spring center pin goes through.

Think in your mind's eye the hole in the perch as it is. If you drill a hole front of it, you'd have to move the axle to the rear for the spring pin head to slide into it. Therefore, the axle gets moved towards the rear.
 
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I guess it depends on what you are doing with the truck, my 78 FJ40 has the stock H42, 1 piece case. I just did a SOA with flipped rear springs, and my Driveshaft is 27" long. but it's pretty modified. If you wanted to keep it stock height it should be OK, but if you lift it, you may need to do something like a spring flip. I don't think drilling the perch for 1/2" is really worth it.

I will actually be going to a splitcase as well, to get rid of the E-brake on the T-case, as I have a 60 series rear-end as well. Can you find a 60 series axle and streal the drum brake system to put the E-brake on the axle?

Hope that helps, I can send pictures if you need.
 
I will actually be going to a splitcase as well, to get rid of the E-brake on the T-case, as I have a 60 series rear-end as well. Can you find a 60 series axle and streal the drum brake system to put the E-brake on the axle?


Semi-float 60 series rear axle drum brake components are not interchangeable with a semi-float 40 series rear axle, unless the 40 series rear axle is 08/80 and later....


:meh:
 
Mark, reread matt's post. All that is done is drilling. The perch and the ubolt plate where the spring center pin goes through.

Think in your mind's eye the hole in the perch as it is. If you drill a hole front of it, you'd have to move the axle to the rear for the spring pin head to slide into it. Therefore, the axle gets moved towards the rear.

He said 40mm... that's more like 1.5"

Where does that all come from?

(still confused)
 
He said 40mm... that's more like 1.5"

Where does that all come from?

(still confused)

In his attached photo the new hole hasn't been drilled yet, just pencilled in faintly in black.
When you redrill the perch you also need to drill the ubolt plate since the spring center pin will then be off center.
 
In his attached photo the new hole hasn't been drilled yet, just pencilled in faintly in black.
When you redrill the perch you also need to drill the ubolt plate since the spring center pin will then be off center.

I understand that. I NOW see that he said 40-50 MM... DOH

So I agree that this mod is not (to me) worth 1/2 inch....
 
I am going to be replacing the rotted out rear spring/frame brackets... this is an easy time to move them back 2" or so. What would be the work involved in moving the front brackets back the same 2" (I don't want to buy new springs that are 2" longer: 1. because I have "new" springs, and 2. because that would only get me 1" of net movement of the axle rearward.)
 
Here you can see the clearance I have.

I fitted up a driveshaft and no part of the shaft or U joint will hit the X member even if it is tilted UP past horizontal (where the axle will, god willing, never be)

And just FYI I put in new motor mount bushings when I put the motor in.. and the fan blades are centered in the shroud.... in case anyone is thinking the motor is too low or is tilted down in the rear. I don't thing that's a factor here.
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Mark, can we get pictures of the tranny mount/crossmember? I'll be doing this shortly myself.
 
Mark, can we get pictures of the tranny mount/crossmember? I'll be doing this shortly myself.

There is nothing to photograph yet. I have the isolator that bolts to the bottom of the tranny and an FJ60 crossmember center section and ends. I will be figuting that all out soon.

I had been thinking it might be good to fab up a lower profile center section that sits up higher than the one I have. This one looks like it might be a rock catcher - I'll know more once I hold it up in position.

Mark
 

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