H55/Split Case Shift Question (1 Viewer)

[pilotmike]

H55/Split Case Shift Question/parking brake problem

Installed the H55 and Split case behind the 13BT.
Without any shift linkage hooked up, It seems to be locked in low. 2wd and 4wd works fine, its just the low/high that I am having a problem with.
How many "positions" should the hi/low arm have?
Where is High located, the ear moved all the way to the left if standing in back looking down at the top of the tranny?

I found this image from another setup.
Can someone tell me what positions that ear should be in for 2 and 4wd?

 

[FL cruiser]

It should have three positions. High, neutral and low. You should be able to shift and feel it click into the three positions.

Was the transfer case disassembled?
Maybe the shift arm end didn't make it into the slot on the shift rail when the transfer case was assembled?

I had a weird thing happen to me where the plug (looks like a freeze plug) on the case slid down into the shift shaft bore, and I couldn't get it into high. It seems like it would be only a freak occurrence though.

 

[bigbrowndog]

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! As mentioned, it should ave 3 distinct positions. As you stand behind the unit looking forward, the arm in the red circle should be to the far left for low range, and the far right for high range. HTH. John

 

[dingbatt]

Hi mate,

I had a similar thing occur to me with my old H41 with split case. The transfer lever physically moved, but would not shift out of low range.

The problem for me was this:

That 'ear' in that red circle attaches to the shaft (which changes between hi / lo) with a clamp system. what happened for me is that the clamp became loose and the shaft actually fell into the transfer case, thus becoming innefectual. Of course the lever could still move, and would shift between 2wd / 4wd, but the ear clamp around the hi/lo selector would not do anything effective!

You may be lucky enough to find that the shaft has not actually fallen into the transfer yet. See if you can feel it out from beneath the car. You should be able to feel the top of the shaft in the middle of the shift 'ear'. If not, you'll know that the shaft has fallen in.

If it has fallen in, you may be able to remove the round inspection plate on the back and use a screwdriver to force the shaft back up.

I started a thread about this when I had this problem:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj45-owners-club/282899-transfer-woes.html

Hopefully this helps.

Cheers,

matt

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Try rotating the output shaft as you try to make the shift. The dog teeth need to line up to engage.

~John

 

[pilotmike]

BJ40 is at West Coast Diesel in Salinas for the H55 conversion.
They took the back of the transfer case off, and come to find out, the bearing next to low gear was pressed in so tight it would not allow the gear to move. It took 4 hours to remove that bearing. Used heat, press, hammer , chisel. What we are thinking happened, when SOR installed the ebrake drum, when they impacted that on, it pulled the bearing back too far, making low gear impossible to spin in the shaft.

 

[Fantom]

that wasn't too intelligent. Some people use impact guns totally the wrong way. I never use an impact to reassemble something, or at least use it in the lowest setting and then use a torque wrench.
Does the linkage on the top of the TC move freely or does it lock into 3 different positions? Just behind the linkage (where is goes into the TC) there shold be a large bolt head (19mm), if you undo that there is a spring and a ball in there that locks the 3 positions. Pull it out and rotate the linkage to see if the shift fork moves inside. If not, then the shifter is not in the right place. You might be able to put it back by taking off the clamp for the link (so just the pin is stick ing out of the case), make sure you hold on to it when you do so it does not drop. Then you can try lowering it a bit and rotating to see if you can find the spot where it fits on the fork again. Keep a magnet near by to make sure the shaft does not drop too far. If that fails, got to pull the cover off.

 

[pilotmike]

Looking further into this problem, either they supplied the wrong drum, or the speedo collar is too long. When they tightened the nut, the drum pressed the bearing up against low gear.
So either the drum or the collar is too long.
Anyone have a SOR parking brake drum off their rig?
If so please measure the machined portion that extends into the housing. Thanks

 

[cruiser_guy]

Have you driven the rig? If so, check for galling between the low speed gear and the shaft it rides on. Both high and low speed gears are engaged ALL the time, the dog clutch decides which one is actually transferring power. Also check to ENSURE the bearing used adjacent to the low speed gear is the right one. The OEM bearing is slightly different than an aftermarket bearing (both have the same I.D., O.D. and width but the OEM bearing fits a little different and will not allow the bearing to contact the gear.

Been there, done that!! Now I'm looking for a new low speed gear because the one I have is galled.

 

[pilotmike]

Too late for me too. No miles at all on this set up.
The damage was done when they installed the e brake drum, smashed everything together. Here is what was damaged: Speedo gear and collar, bearing, low gear itself, and the shaft is toast.
I found all this out when I could not shift the transfer case in 3 positions. Of course I didnt bother to check UNTIL I had it all installed, drivelines on......

 

[cruiser_guy]

Take a look at this. If the gear on the left is what you need it's not going to work for me 'cause my gears are cut the opposite way and I can't find the right gear yet. I've since replaced the transfer case so this is surplus to my needs.

Are you SURE the speedo gear and collar are bad? I can see the gear and shaft, maybe the bearing but unless the shop was hard on the speedo gear and collar they should be fine.

Make SURE you're using an OEM bearing. The OEM bearing CANNOT be driven into the low speed gear. There is a shoulder that the OEM bearing will catch but an aftermarket bearing will not until it is too late.

If the pictured part is right for you, it has 40 teeth, I also have the speedo gear, shaft and collar if you are interested. PM me.

 

[pilotmike]

PM'd you, no pic in your post

 

[cruiser_guy]

Opps!! This thread/post https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/397225-did-split-case-gears-change.html#post5681491

 

[cruiser_guy]

This is the split case output shaft. You can see the step in the shaft where the bearing inner race stops at. IF you have the factory bearing it WILL stop there and it WILL NOT contact the low speed gear. If you do not use the OEM bearing the shape of the inner race WILL allow the bearing to contact the gear BEFORE it hits the step and thus screw up your gear and shaft.

 

[pilotmike]

cruiser,
when i put this all together on a bench, we torqued it to 60lbs and low gear binds op from the bearing........
I dont know what the heck is going on as it seems like these e brake kits are bolt on. I am going to have to take some clearances off the gear or the drum stub or the speedo collar....

 

[bigbrowndog]

Opps!! This thread/post https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/397225-did-split-case-gears-change.html#post5681491

This is from Outerlimits 4x4
Outer Limits 4x4 Board • View topic - 60 Series Transfer cases

 

[cruiser_guy]

cruiser,
when i put this all together on a bench, we torqued it to 60lbs and low gear binds op from the bearing........
I dont know what the heck is going on as it seems like these e brake kits are bolt on. I am going to have to take some clearances off the gear or the drum stub or the speedo collar....

Before you get too carried away DOUBLE CHECK the bearing!! The inner race of the OEM bearing where it contacts that ridge on the shaft is almost the same radius as that ridge. An aftermarket bearing will have a larger radius there which allows the bearing to travel further down the shaft and bind up the gear. Trust me, I had the EXACT same problem.

Hard to explain with words but if you can, see if your current bearing is an OEM bearing or not. I'll bet it's not.

You need the OEM part #97600-30307, that's the output shaft bearing for that location. The equivalent aftermarket bearing is NOT equivalent.

It MUST be a Koyo 30307J (that's from the outer race), the inner race may have additional identifying numbers.

If you start shaving gears and all that then you're into additional shims for bearing preload and all sorts of other complications, DON'T do it!