Malleus
Far west of Siegen
This should be in the FAQ
H151F Rebuild
- Thread starter ArmyFJ
- Start date
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I've spent a bit more time in the parts catalog this morning, working up some "worst case" shopping lists for all the internal parts. I like to do things this way usually, pricing for a "scorched earth" policy of replacing just about everything, and then taking off the big ticket items that don't really need replacing in my case. For my 1993 H150F, I've attached the lists I got from the parts catalog, with list prices shown accurate for 2021, summarized here:
$283.07 - All Snaps, Rings, Seals, Gaskets, Pins, Springs, Etc
$501.55 - All bearings
$483.87 - All synchros
$291.20 - All sleeves
$299.73 - All hubs
This is if I replaced basically everything inside the box with brand new shiny parts, except the gears, shafts, and forks. I won't be doing that, but it helps me focus on what's important. I can see that I can do all the misc stuff for relatively cheap compared to the bearings for example, so it's best for me to focus my time on whether I really need a new input shaft bearing for example, which is $128.27 list price, vs worrying about whether I reuse a $0.99 snap ring.
$283.07 - All Snaps, Rings, Seals, Gaskets, Pins, Springs, Etc
$501.55 - All bearings
$483.87 - All synchros
$291.20 - All sleeves
$299.73 - All hubs
This is if I replaced basically everything inside the box with brand new shiny parts, except the gears, shafts, and forks. I won't be doing that, but it helps me focus on what's important. I can see that I can do all the misc stuff for relatively cheap compared to the bearings for example, so it's best for me to focus my time on whether I really need a new input shaft bearing for example, which is $128.27 list price, vs worrying about whether I reuse a $0.99 snap ring.
Given what I saw in this thread too, I'm definitely going to spend the $31.47 for a new oil strainer sub-assembly, or $34.32 as it is in today's money from Partsouq, rather than mess around trying to clean the existing one.
- Thread starter
- #44
I am sure there are some different opinions on this but my approach to what I needed was this:
Must do:
* replace all the soft parts including gaskets, seals, and o-rings
* replace all the bearings
Should do:
* replace worn hub sleeves
* replace warped synchros
* replace worn gears
* replace washers, plugs, and pin assemblies
Could do:
* replace input and output shafts
The FSM gives some good guidance on all these parts.
In the end the input and output shafts were in tolerance and the synchros, gears, and hub sleeves (minus one) were in good shape for me.
Not sure if you have the output shaft snap-rings. From the pics I am guessing no. I recommend buying the range of output shaft snap-rings for each gear to have on hand for rebuild. The rings vary in thickness and you won’t know what thickness you need until you press the gear back on to the output shaft and test the fit of the snap-ring. They will be a few dollars each.
BTW - the rings like to launch off the output shaft during installation…
This maybe a silly question but I need to swap my input shay (new shaft and bearing)
To remove, do I need to remove the counterweight bearing under, so I can slide it out? Also the bearing is in good condition. Will it be buggered if I pull it off aka should I get a replacement? Or are they okay to come on and off?
To remove, do I need to remove the counterweight bearing under, so I can slide it out? Also the bearing is in good condition. Will it be buggered if I pull it off aka should I get a replacement? Or are they okay to come on and off?
- Thread starter
- #46
Per the FSM, you will have to remove the counter gear to remove the input shaft from the output shaft. I think that's what you're talking about with the phrase "counterweight bearing under." You have to go in pretty far on the transmission to get the input shaft off. I would recommend you go in with the mindset you will need to replace all the bearings if you're going to go that far into the transmission. That said, the split bearing at the back of the counter gear shouldn't give you too much trouble unless it's already damaged. You stated "Also the bearing is in good condition." Which bearing are you referring to?
Post 120 and 121 have pictures of removal and installation of the inputshaft on a h151. I had to swap the inputshaft on my brand new transmission so it would work behind my 1fz. Basically goes like this if i remember correctly, remove front bearing housing, split case, remove shift shafts, remove reverse gear and reverse gear synchro hub assembly, remove main and counter shafts pull off input shaft then install in reverse order.
My build thread.
forum.ih8mud.com
My build thread.
Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f
If I wasn't so attached to my York air compressor, my engine bay may see a WAC of some sort. The pics above are a good inspiration.
forum.ih8mud.com
Wowsers,Post 120 and 121 have pictures of removal and installation of the inputshaft on a h151. I had to swap the inputshaft on my brand new transmission so it would work behind my 1fz. Basically goes like this if i remember correctly, remove front bearing housing, split case, remove shift shafts, remove reverse gear and reverse gear synchro hub assembly, remove main and counter shafts pull off input shaft then install in reverse order.
My build thread.
Well i did a thing.. my 97 lx build. distributorless/turbo/h151f
If I wasn't so attached to my York air compressor, my engine bay may see a WAC of some sort. The pics above are a good inspiration.
is that the easiest way to swap the input shaft?
I’ll have to read through the manual. Or if someone else can chime in that would be great
Unfortunately that is the only way to get the input shaft off, if you've been a manual trans before I don't think you'll have a hard time, you will need a good 3 jaw puller and some knowledge otherwise you can end up breaking stuff pulling the gears off the shaft. Also will need snap ring pliers and either a nice stout tube and hammer or press to get the gears pressed back together.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Agreed with above. To change the input shaft you're 80%+ of the way to stripping the whole box.
Good time to refresh all the small parts and bearings
Good time to refresh all the small parts and bearings
Work in progress
Looking good! I'm very interested in getting a list of all the bearing part numbers if you're able to do that. Toyota buys from other manufacturers like Koyo and re-box them for their "genuine" parts. If I can get the bearing part numbers, rather than just the Toyota part numbers, I can get their specs and look at compatibility, and prices direct from the bearing manufacturers.
I did the same for transfer case...
Thanks, saw those pics from before. I could get the Koyo bearing numbers from it, but I couldn't see the numbers for the big NSK bearings, and the reverse idler bearing was loose in the bag. I was wondering if you had part numbers for the other bearings, possibly if they sent an invoice with all the individual part identifiers? The website advertises the rebuild kit, but doesn't give much detail as to the contents.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Bearing wholesale suppliers can usually cross reference OEM part numbers for a lot of stuff.
CBC bearings is a supplier I've used in Sydney before (among others).They'll have a house brand, or you can specify a brand
I don't have other numbers. I didn't make photo. My mechanic told me that all items are oem fit and did't miss anything in the box. Bearings, seals etc... there is a lot small items in it. I recomend you to buy whole kit
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Another suggestion, the numbers stamped on bearings use an industry standard format and designate bearing type, critical dimensions, tolerance class etc
Small update on my end. So the H150F I got in parts was not from a 93 model as claimed, but was in fact from a pre-92 model. I confirmed this after tracking down some pictures to confirm the bearing codes. As I noted before in the list of changes, the H150F changed the front input shaft and corresponding bearing in Jan 92.
For pre-92 H150F boxes, the front input shaft bearing is part code 90363-50006, which is actually an NSK TM310U40A:
For Jan 92 H150F boxes onwards, the front input shaft bearing is part code 90363-50007, which is actually an NSK 50TM02U40A:
There were other tells as well that I'll go into more at another time. I didn't want to rebuild the original revision of the transmission, I wanted a later model box with the triple synchro second gear, and a closer match for my 96 model HZJ80. I wasn't upset about the purchase, because I got the early box for almost nothing, and it gives me a good box of spares for a rebuild. After some waiting and watching, I picked up this box:
I paid a little more and drove a bit further for this box than I wanted, but it was a 97 model box, last revision of the H150F, and it was very clean and in good nick, so I considered it worth it.
At this point I should point out - I'm doing this for s***s and giggles. The economic option would have been to pick up a box from a 79 series and change over the input shaft, or not do anything at all, since my box still works. I want to rebuild an original 80 series box and put in fresh synchros. Why? Ehh, why not?
I cracked open the case this afternoon and took a peek, to try and confirm a bit more about the build year, and to get it moving forward a little. Very clean inside:
I'll post some step by step instructions on cracking the case at some point because I didn't see any, but it's basically just a matter of following the FSM. Right now I've got the parts bagged/wrapped up to keep them clean and oiled while I wait to start on a rebuild. I've been getting bits and peices gradually over the last 12 months tacked onto other parts orders, a couple of synchros here, a few hub sleeves and bearing there, and at this point I've got almost everything, just need the time to do the work.
For pre-92 H150F boxes, the front input shaft bearing is part code 90363-50006, which is actually an NSK TM310U40A:
For Jan 92 H150F boxes onwards, the front input shaft bearing is part code 90363-50007, which is actually an NSK 50TM02U40A:
There were other tells as well that I'll go into more at another time. I didn't want to rebuild the original revision of the transmission, I wanted a later model box with the triple synchro second gear, and a closer match for my 96 model HZJ80. I wasn't upset about the purchase, because I got the early box for almost nothing, and it gives me a good box of spares for a rebuild. After some waiting and watching, I picked up this box:
I paid a little more and drove a bit further for this box than I wanted, but it was a 97 model box, last revision of the H150F, and it was very clean and in good nick, so I considered it worth it.
At this point I should point out - I'm doing this for s***s and giggles. The economic option would have been to pick up a box from a 79 series and change over the input shaft, or not do anything at all, since my box still works. I want to rebuild an original 80 series box and put in fresh synchros. Why? Ehh, why not?
I cracked open the case this afternoon and took a peek, to try and confirm a bit more about the build year, and to get it moving forward a little. Very clean inside:
I'll post some step by step instructions on cracking the case at some point because I didn't see any, but it's basically just a matter of following the FSM. Right now I've got the parts bagged/wrapped up to keep them clean and oiled while I wait to start on a rebuild. I've been getting bits and peices gradually over the last 12 months tacked onto other parts orders, a couple of synchros here, a few hub sleeves and bearing there, and at this point I've got almost everything, just need the time to do the work.
