GX470 Storage Box/Sleeping Platform Complete! (1 Viewer)

[psilocyBen]

I finally had the seat up and remembered, here you go.

wow... just wow

can you snap some pics with the seat up?

 

[ih8mygx]

Very happy to finally have finished my storage system/sleeping platform and wanted to share it. Ended up being more challenging then I thought, but was definitely a rewarding experience. I spent weeks looking up other people’s designs and ultimately decided to do a system somewhat similar to driftas. 1/2” Baltic birch, UHMW slides. For the bed extension, I used hangar bolts in rounded wood poles (used 1.5” closet pole), inserted into tee nuts. This makes them easily removable for storage. The larger extension seems sturdy enough but I may add one more leg in the middle just to have more support. Bed extensions are secured via L braces that slot into a wooden bracket I attached to the back of the drawer box. Rear seats remain functional, and can be used independently, though I opted to leave the left ones out to gain much more storage underneath. Total top platform length is 72.5”. Purposely made it this length so I can with the bed setup and have the drivers seat fully pushed back, though you definitely could make it considerably longer if leaving the bed setup when driving isn’t important to you. Overall very happy with how it came out. View attachment 2473271View attachment 2473272View attachment 2473273View attachment 2473274

What’s the dimensions of the drawers and the 3 up rights used to support the box, I know I’ll need at least 3- 4’x4’ pieces of plywood for that the top and bottom of the box, and then for the additional piece to cover the rear seats

 

[psilocyBen]

What’s the dimensions of the drawers and the 3 up rights used to support the box, I know I’ll need at least 3- 4’x4’ pieces of plywood for that the top and bottom of the box, and then for the additional piece to cover the rear seats

The overall box is 41.75” wide x 36” deep x 12.2” tall. If using 1/2” ply, then the up rights would be about 35.5” x 11.2” (taking into account the back support piece and the top and bottom piece). Numbers are approx though as 1/2” plywood isn’t exactly 1/2”. The exact drawer dimensions really depend on the exact dimensions of the plywood thickness and UHMW thickness. I’d recommend making the drawers slightly less narrow and tall than the box opening so they’ll for slide well. I tried cutting it too close with my measurements and cuts and ended up having to sand them down slightly smaller to get them slide smoothly.

 

[PotatoKing]

The overall box is 41.75” wide x 36” deep x 12.2” tall. If using 1/2” ply, then the up rights would be about 35.5” x 11.2” (taking into account the back support piece and the top and bottom piece). Numbers are approx though as 1/2” plywood isn’t exactly 1/2”. The exact drawer dimensions really depend on the exact dimensions of the plywood thickness and UHMW thickness. I’d recommend making the drawers slightly less narrow and tall than the box opening so they’ll for slide well. I tried cutting it too close with my measurements and cuts and ended up having to sand them down slightly smaller to get them slide smoothly.

Would you mind taking a picture of how you used the UHMW as slides? And where you sourced the UHMW?

 

[psilocyBen]

Would you mind taking a picture of how you used the UHMW as slides? And where you sourced the UHMW?

Here’s a photo of where I put them. I then used a countersink drill bit and screwed them down so the screws didn’t stick above the plastic surface. Glue won’t work on it. I got a sheet from a local plastic supplier and then cut it into strips.

 

[PotatoKing]

View attachment 2792223
Here’s a photo of where I put them. I then used a countersink drill bit and screwed them down so the screws didn’t stick above the plastic surface. Glue won’t work on it. I got a sheet from a local plastic supplier and then cut it into strips.

That's what I was assuming you did, just wanted to verify. Thanks

 

[robcgray]

View attachment 2792223
Here’s a photo of where I put them. I then used a countersink drill bit and screwed them down so the screws didn’t stick above the plastic surface. Glue won’t work on it. I got a sheet from a local plastic supplier and then cut it into strips.

Such a professional looking build!

When the drawers are out past 50%, and starting to cantilever against the top, in the back, any issues there? Should one consider HDPE on top of drawers, or underside the top platform? I was even wondering about making the drawer sides out of HDPE.

Thanks

 

[amongmany]

Such a professional looking build!

When the drawers are out past 50%, and starting to cantilever against the top, in the back, any issues there? Should one consider HDPE on top of drawers, or underside the top platform? I was even wondering about making the drawer sides out of HDPE.

Thanks

Can't speak for Ben, but our drawers have a few HDPE slides on the rails and thats it. No issues as they start to tip downward a little.

 

[psilocyBen]

Such a professional looking build!

When the drawers are out past 50%, and starting to cantilever against the top, in the back, any issues there? Should one consider HDPE on top of drawers, or underside the top platform? I was even wondering about making the drawer sides out of HDPE.

Thanks

I haven’t noticed any issues at all, though in reality the majority of the times I’m only opening the drawers about 50% or less. The only time I really notice any friction there is if I’m opening the drawers really far open and then it can be countered by slightly lifting the drawer as you pull. It really seems like all the friction is on the bottom and sides though, and the area you’re worried about is just where the drawer will rest once left open, farther than encountering a lot of friction when sliding. I guess it couldn’t hurt to put a strip on the top of drawer sides but I don’t think it’s necessary. Mine are covered in a few coats of polyurethane and it seems fine.

 

[Mr Knee]

I haven’t noticed any issues at all, though in reality the majority of the times I’m only opening the drawers about 50% or less. The only time I really notice any friction there is if I’m opening the drawers really far open and then it can be countered by slightly lifting the drawer as you pull. It really seems like all the friction is on the bottom and sides though, and the area you’re worried about is just where the drawer will rest once left open, farther than encountering a lot of friction when sliding. I guess it couldn’t hurt to put a strip on the top of drawer sides but I don’t think it’s necessary. Mine are covered in a few coats of polyurethane and it seems fine.

Man, can we pay you for the blueprint on this!? Looks amazing!

 

[WhatIfSurvival]

Amazing build man!!!

I’m looking into getting a gx470 and have some questions about platform. I’m 6’3” and me and my wife would be sleeping in it , do you think I could fit with seats pushed up? Do you know the measurements of the seats when pushed up?

Keep on doing it, looking great!!!!!

 

[Nomadoverland]

Very happy to finally have finished my storage system/sleeping platform and wanted to share it. Ended up being more challenging then I thought, but was definitely a rewarding experience. I spent weeks looking up other people’s designs and ultimately decided to do a system somewhat similar to driftas. 1/2” Baltic birch, UHMW slides. For the bed extension, I used hangar bolts in rounded wood poles (used 1.5” closet pole), inserted into tee nuts. This makes them easily removable for storage. The larger extension seems sturdy enough but I may add one more leg in the middle just to have more support. Bed extensions are secured via L braces that slot into a wooden bracket I attached to the back of the drawer box. Rear seats remain functional, and can be used independently, though I opted to leave the left ones out to gain much more storage underneath. Total top platform length is 72.5”. Purposely made it this length so I can with the bed setup and have the drivers seat fully pushed back, though you definitely could make it considerably longer if leaving the bed setup when driving isn’t important to you. Overall very happy with how it came out. View attachment 2473271View attachment 2473272View attachment 2473273View attachment 2473274

I just purchased a GX yesterday, This build is exactly what I would like to do, when building did you make any type of manual or specs to know in the future?

 

[psilocyBen]

Amazing build man!!!

I’m looking into getting a gx470 and have some questions about platform. I’m 6’3” and me and my wife would be sleeping in it , do you think I could fit with seats pushed up? Do you know the measurements of the seats when pushed up?

Keep on doing it, looking great!!!!!

Thanks! It’s for sure well over 6’3” with the seats pushed forward. I leave my driver seat all the way back with the bed platform setup and my total platform length is 6’ 1/2”. In addition, I could’ve made my drawer box longer by 1-2” as well but I left room for my fold down table on the rear door.

 

[psilocyBen]

I did draw up some blueprints but I don’t know what I did with them, and honestly I ended up slightly adjusting things as I went. In the 4th or 5th post on this thread though I believe I said a lot of the final dimensions.

I just purchased a GX yesterday, This build is exactly what I would like to do, when building did you make any type of manual or specs to know in the future?

 

[hens]

Very happy to finally have finished my storage system/sleeping platform and wanted to share it. Ended up being more challenging then I thought, but was definitely a rewarding experience. I spent weeks looking up other people’s designs and ultimately decided to do a system somewhat similar to driftas. 1/2” Baltic birch, UHMW slides. For the bed extension, I used hangar bolts in rounded wood poles (used 1.5” closet pole), inserted into tee nuts. This makes them easily removable for storage. The larger extension seems sturdy enough but I may add one more leg in the middle just to have more support. Bed extensions are secured via L braces that slot into a wooden bracket I attached to the back of the drawer box. Rear seats remain functional, and can be used independently, though I opted to leave the left ones out to gain much more storage underneath. Total top platform length is 72.5”. Purposely made it this length so I can with the bed setup and have the drivers seat fully pushed back, though you definitely could make it considerably longer if leaving the bed setup when driving isn’t important to you. Overall very happy with how it came out. View attachment 2473271View attachment 2473272View attachment 2473273View attachment 2473274

This looks amazing! I'm beginning to tackle the designing and planning of making a platform and would love to know what hinges you used for the wings.

 

[drowzyGX]

Can't speak for Ben, but our drawers have a few HDPE slides on the rails and thats it. No issues as they start to tip downward a little.

View attachment 2843665

Do the plans on your site cover the build in the picture? Couldn’t tell from the photos on the blueprint link if the wings and drawers and all that are part of the build.

 

[amongmany]

Do the plans on your site cover the build in the picture? Couldn’t tell from the photos on the blueprint link if the wings and drawers and all that are part of the build.

Includes everything but the wings. That said, if you get a contour guide, they're reasonably easy to trace and cut with a jigsaw.

 

[ineedabubble]

I finally had the seat up and remembered, here you go.

View attachment 2524135View attachment 2524136View attachment 2524138View attachment 2524139

That's pretty damn sick!

 

[mudflapatx]

View attachment 2792223
Here’s a photo of where I put them. I then used a countersink drill bit and screwed them down so the screws didn’t stick above the plastic surface. Glue won’t work on it. I got a sheet from a local plastic supplier and then cut it into strips.

@psilocyBen apologies for reviving your old thread I'm just curious - did you do a plywood "baseplate" as well or does the drawer box pictured above bolt directly into the rear tie-down holes^? I see there that they're countersunk but I couldn't see in any of your pics if there was an additional plywood layer below the box. I originally thought this would be necessary to get the box high enough so the drawers could slide out but now I'm not so sure. TIA!

 

[psilocyBen]

@psilocyBen apologies for reviving your old thread I'm just curious - did you do a plywood "baseplate" as well or does the drawer box pictured above bolt directly into the rear tie-down holes^? I see there that they're countersunk but I couldn't see in any of your pics if there was an additional plywood layer below the box. I originally thought this would be necessary to get the box high enough so the drawers could slide out but now I'm not so sure. TIA!

No extra baseplate was needed. I just bolted the box directly to the frame. There’s enough height clearance for the drawers to come out even with just 1/2” plywood.