Awesome. Thanks so much for the prompt reply, sir!No extra baseplate was needed. I just bolted the box directly to the frame. There’s enough height clearance for the drawers to come out even with just 1/2” plywood.
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Awesome. Thanks so much for the prompt reply, sir!No extra baseplate was needed. I just bolted the box directly to the frame. There’s enough height clearance for the drawers to come out even with just 1/2” plywood.
@psilocyBen Just wanted to follow up and say I did end up finishing the drawers and your images/descriptions were a HUGE help. Turned out to be quite the undertaking and they aren't perfect but they'll do the job just fine and it was a rewarding experience. No sleeping platform yet but I plan to add one in the future. Thanks again!No extra baseplate was needed. I just bolted the box directly to the frame. There’s enough height clearance for the drawers to come out even with just 1/2” plywood.
where did you get the dog barrier?@psilocyBen Just wanted to follow up and say I did end up finishing the drawers and your images/descriptions were a HUGE help. Turned out to be quite the undertaking and they aren't perfect but they'll do the job just fine and it was a rewarding experience. No sleeping platform yet but I plan to add one in the future. Thanks again!
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Bison Gear. Reasonable prices IMO and unbelievably fast shipping considering they’re in Poland.where did you get the dog barrier?
Very happy to finally have finished my storage system/sleeping platform and wanted to share it. Ended up being more challenging than I thought, but was definitely a rewarding experience. I spent weeks looking up other people’s designs and ultimately decided to do a system somewhat similar to driftas. 1/2” Baltic birch, UHMW slides. For the bed extension, I used hangar bolts in rounded wood poles (used 1.5” closet pole), inserted into tee nuts. This makes them easily removable for storage. The larger extension seems sturdy enough but I may add one more leg in the middle just to have more support. Bed extensions are secured via L braces that slot into a wooden bracket I attached to the back of the drawer box. Rear seats remain functional, and can be used independently, though I opted to leave the left ones out to gain much more storage underneath. Total top platform length is 72.5”. Purposely made it this length so I can with the bed setup and have the drivers seat fully pushed back, though you definitely could make it considerably longer if leaving the bed setup when driving isn’t important to you. Overall very happy with how it came out. View attachment 2473271View attachment 2473272View attachment 2473273View attachment 2473274@psilocyBen What hinges did you use for the “wings”, I can’t think of how to make them hidden where they lock when flat and lot when 90 degrees like yours. Thanks!
These were the style hinges https://a.co/d/h7YbYzt
Thank you! @psilocyBenThese were the style hinges https://a.co/d/h7YbYzt
Good luck! Yeah my build took significantly longer than I was anticipating as wellNicely done! I'm finishing up my drawers today and it took way longer then I had expected.
How did y’all secure the box to the floor/tiedowns. Thx!
What did you use to hold the paddle latches closed? I'm thinking of going the same route with the UHMW slides as well and I think I'll add a little bar on the top to stop the drawer from coming all the way out and secure that latch. Something like this:Very happy to finally have finished my storage system/sleeping platform and wanted to share it. Ended up being more challenging then I thought, but was definitely a rewarding experience. I spent weeks looking up other people’s designs and ultimately decided to do a system somewhat similar to driftas. 1/2” Baltic birch, UHMW slides. For the bed extension, I used hangar bolts in rounded wood poles (used 1.5” closet pole), inserted into tee nuts. This makes them easily removable for storage. The larger extension seems sturdy enough but I may add one more leg in the middle just to have more support. Bed extensions are secured via L braces that slot into a wooden bracket I attached to the back of the drawer box. Rear seats remain functional, and can be used independently, though I opted to leave the left ones out to gain much more storage underneath. Total top platform length is 72.5”. Purposely made it this length so I can with the bed setup and have the drivers seat fully pushed back, though you definitely could make it considerably longer if leaving the bed setup when driving isn’t important to you. Overall very happy with how it came out. View attachment 2473271View attachment 2473272View attachment 2473273View attachment 2473274
If you google drawer latch striker plate that’s what I usedWhat did you use to hold the paddle latches closed? I'm thinking of going the same route with the UHMW slides as well and I think I'll add a little bar on the top to stop the drawer from coming all the way out and secure that latch. Something like this:
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4× 5cm M8 bolts with 1.0 thread pitch.How did y’all secure the box to the floor/tiedowns. Thx!
Honestly I wouldn’t worry about that. It could just look uneven because the rear of the GX is slightly angled back/curved compared to the perfect 90 degree angle of the box. I often used a level when parked on a flat surface and it wasn’t noticeably tilted forward at all.Thanks for the inspiration @psilocyBen! It looks like the box is leaning slightly downward towards the tailgate. Any idea why and how to counteract that? Perhaps I should leave the frame bolt trim in place to prop up that side?
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