Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
Oem -25
GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (36 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #2,242
Interesting.
Offset is the next part of this decision. If I'm going with a 17x8" wheel, the options are 20mm or -6mm. Just not sure which will have a higher likelihood of rubbing.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
That's an inch difference in offset, the + 20 should intrude about 3/4" further front and rear, since pushing the wheel out increases the scrub radius. Keeping them tight also reduces leverage on suspension and steering components.
Tinkerers Adventure covers it really well. I rewatched his older videos.
- Thread starter
- #2,244
Right... I get the geometry, and that the 20mm offset wheel tucks better and likely fits with less of an issue (especially considering stock wheels are 25mm offset), just trying to figure out if the -6 is doable since 0mm is basically the aftermarket standard for Toyota IFS vehicles.
But correct me if I'm wrong: Moral of the story is that 255/80/17 with a 17x8" 20mm offset wheel should have no issues as far as rubbing or clearance goes
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
You will have to move stuff around and if you are committed to that wheel offset, you will need a BMC, almost for sure. I just cleared the body mount with -12 7.5s
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- Thread starter
- #2,246
Committed to 0 or +20?
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
The +20
r2m
Richard
I had the same size tire in KO2 format with no issues of rubbing, albeit, I did have the BMC done. With zero offset on my wheels, and that size tire, there were never any rubbing issues, not till I mounted the 315's on which were about an inch larger in diameter a an inch or so wider. The width is where I get rubbing and that's only on lock-to-lock. I'm going back to the 285/75's when these wear out.
I would not consider negative offset on these rigs. Not only will you push the wheel out and hit more of the fenders but you'll throw mud/snow/rocks/water/salt down the side of your rig. IMO they look perfect with 0 offset wheels. I have maybe 1/2" of poke outside of the fenders with 285/70R17 tires and 17x8.5, 0-offset wheels. And I had to do a BMC and trim a bunch of stuff to get them to fit.
A +10 or +15 mm wheel would honestly be kind of nice for these rigs, but wouldn't look as good as the 0-offset wheels. The +20/25 mm wheels certainly tuck great, but IMO the rigs look drastically better with a little bit of poke.
A +10 or +15 mm wheel would honestly be kind of nice for these rigs, but wouldn't look as good as the 0-offset wheels. The +20/25 mm wheels certainly tuck great, but IMO the rigs look drastically better with a little bit of poke.
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r2m
Richard
I agree about having too negative an offset or fatty tires. I hate having mud slung all along the side of my rig, along with all the stone paint chips.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
Yep, why I run oem wheels, its what our trucks are engineered for and its a simple set of constraints to work with.
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I thought the steelies were +15? Should be the same as the OEM 4Runner non-TRD wheels.
Either way, I like having this picture - rear is an OEM FJ steelie, front is a 17x8.5-8. Both are the same tire, a Kenda AT2 in 285/70. Normally it pokes about as much as in the second picture. It's lifted in the second picture as well, but should be relatively the same.
I would have run a higher offset (would have preferred a +5 or so) but they only make these wheels in one offset for this platform.
Either way, I like having this picture - rear is an OEM FJ steelie, front is a 17x8.5-8. Both are the same tire, a Kenda AT2 in 285/70. Normally it pokes about as much as in the second picture. It's lifted in the second picture as well, but should be relatively the same.
I would have run a higher offset (would have preferred a +5 or so) but they only make these wheels in one offset for this platform.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
The 7.5" wheels are -25 just like the gx460 oems 18"s
Also, there are 18" oem steelies in -25 coming from new Tundras and Sequoias.
If one wanted a true 35, the 285/75R18 on a steelie would like very nice and not have the flotation width issues.
Also, there are 18" oem steelies in -25 coming from new Tundras and Sequoias.
If one wanted a true 35, the 285/75R18 on a steelie would like very nice and not have the flotation width issues.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
Also, I hate offset and way prefer backspacing, it makes more sense in my brain, but unfortunately that battle was lost a long time ago.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
Nevermind, I think i had it backwards.
In my head I saw the dash 25 and read it as -25.
In my head I saw the dash 25 and read it as -25.
- Thread starter
- #2,256
Yeah I'm definitely overthinking this to a factor of 100000x. I've watched Kai's (Tinkerer's Adventure) video at least five times. But because I'm already driving myself insane, here's some more info that's partially vehicle related, partially an insight into my life, and partially justification and reasoning for some decisions that I'm hoping you all can verify. Bear with me, this is going to be a lot as I basically vomit out what's on my mind here to try and make sense of it all.
Background time. There's a lot of reasons I am pursuing changing up the wheel/tire package on my GX, which buckets into one project goal to either get a more aggressive or taller tire while minimizing any extra unsprung weight at each corner and without creating a situation in which I have to find a speciality shop for an alignment and/or cut and trim extensively. I'll go into more detail later as to why these are important. It's a lot of juggling to make this "happy medium" happen.
Let's say I'm going with the 255/80/17 tire. The wheel sizes and offsets being considered to pair with this are:
For the hell of it though, let's say I were to do 285/75/17. This opens up the option of a 17x8.5" 0 offset wheel. Here's how it compares to the 17x8 -6 offset wheel:
And here's how it compares to the 17x8 20mm offset wheel:
Math tells me that with 285/75/17 being 33.9x11.3" and 255/80/17 being 33.1x10.0", the 285/75 is .8" taller, which is really only .4" more tire per side. This alone shouldn't be an issue fitting my GX (which has a BMC and Ironman bumper) as far as I can tell. But the 285/75 is 1.3" wider, which is over a half inch more per side. There's also a 17x8.5 -10mm offset wheel that's an option, but I understand that brings an even higher likelihood of needing to trim/cut/align in a specific way. In any capacity, the benefit of picking the 8.5" wide wheel even with 0 offset is to run a 34-35" tire, which goes back to the need to trim/cut and do a maximum-caster alignment.
I honestly can't say I trust any of the shops near me to with anything beyond a standard alignment. Definitely nowhere in my immediate vicinity that I trust to do so at least. Additionally, and here's where things get even more complex and possibly stop the 34-35" show in its tracks for the time being: I have a toddler, a newborn, and work 2 jobs. Extra time, effort, and/or money to get a tire to fit properly without any rubbing is just not in the cards right now. I keep trying to tell myself that it is, and that I can find the time to make it all work, but I'm acknowledging my free time is minimal as-is and I can't devote any of it to fighting for tire clearance. Call it adulting or maturing, but it is what it is.
All of this brings me back to the 255/80/17, which I'm not particularly excited about being shorter in diameter than would be ideal (some of the trails we run are really geared towards 35" tires) and than my current 34x10.5" tires (which measure 32.5" tall overall mounted on 17x8" wheels on the GX) but it makes for the fewest outright headaches at least for the time being.
So coming full circle, the decision again comes down to whether I should go -6mm or 20mm offset for a 17x8" wheel.
Background time. There's a lot of reasons I am pursuing changing up the wheel/tire package on my GX, which buckets into one project goal to either get a more aggressive or taller tire while minimizing any extra unsprung weight at each corner and without creating a situation in which I have to find a speciality shop for an alignment and/or cut and trim extensively. I'll go into more detail later as to why these are important. It's a lot of juggling to make this "happy medium" happen.
Let's say I'm going with the 255/80/17 tire. The wheel sizes and offsets being considered to pair with this are:
- 17x8, 20mm
- 17x8, -6mm
- 17x8.5, 0mm
- The -6mm offset wheel sticks out further from the vehicle, but has a longer scrub radius. This means that there's a higher likelihood (in concept) of hitting the body mount, which with this tire size isn't too likely, but can't be ruled out. [Someone correct me if I'm wrong]. It's likely that caster will have to be maxed out for -6 to work.
- The 20mm offset wheel tucks in further, and will likely clear without issue, but running too wide of a tire on this offset can mean rubbing the UCA. In essence, this is 26mm tighter to the suspension than the -6mm wheel, which translates to 1.02" closer-- or it can be looked at as the -6 being 1.02" further out from the hub.
For the hell of it though, let's say I were to do 285/75/17. This opens up the option of a 17x8.5" 0 offset wheel. Here's how it compares to the 17x8 -6 offset wheel:
And here's how it compares to the 17x8 20mm offset wheel:
Math tells me that with 285/75/17 being 33.9x11.3" and 255/80/17 being 33.1x10.0", the 285/75 is .8" taller, which is really only .4" more tire per side. This alone shouldn't be an issue fitting my GX (which has a BMC and Ironman bumper) as far as I can tell. But the 285/75 is 1.3" wider, which is over a half inch more per side. There's also a 17x8.5 -10mm offset wheel that's an option, but I understand that brings an even higher likelihood of needing to trim/cut/align in a specific way. In any capacity, the benefit of picking the 8.5" wide wheel even with 0 offset is to run a 34-35" tire, which goes back to the need to trim/cut and do a maximum-caster alignment.
I honestly can't say I trust any of the shops near me to with anything beyond a standard alignment. Definitely nowhere in my immediate vicinity that I trust to do so at least. Additionally, and here's where things get even more complex and possibly stop the 34-35" show in its tracks for the time being: I have a toddler, a newborn, and work 2 jobs. Extra time, effort, and/or money to get a tire to fit properly without any rubbing is just not in the cards right now. I keep trying to tell myself that it is, and that I can find the time to make it all work, but I'm acknowledging my free time is minimal as-is and I can't devote any of it to fighting for tire clearance. Call it adulting or maturing, but it is what it is.
All of this brings me back to the 255/80/17, which I'm not particularly excited about being shorter in diameter than would be ideal (some of the trails we run are really geared towards 35" tires) and than my current 34x10.5" tires (which measure 32.5" tall overall mounted on 17x8" wheels on the GX) but it makes for the fewest outright headaches at least for the time being.
So coming full circle, the decision again comes down to whether I should go -6mm or 20mm offset for a 17x8" wheel.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
Now that I have reversed my rectal cranial inversion. The 20s. Should only intrude a bit more, and should be well the pinch weld. Maybe have to play with fender liners.
Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
I was clearing 275/70r18s on the 25 18x75 and they were snow tires so more squared off, and I still had over 3/8 to the body mount. I fully flexed it out with those, keeping up with JKRs and JLRs with 35s and 37s.
Those measure out almost an inch wider than a 255/80 and .2 " taller. I had finally got them so they had zero rubbing.
Those measure out almost an inch wider than a 255/80 and .2 " taller. I had finally got them so they had zero rubbing.
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Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
What are folks running for UCAs. I am at the 1.75 setting on my 5100s and have rubbing issues.
Where the rubbing is happening matters. I had stock wheels with 265/70/R17's on my lifted (2 1/2"F, 2"R) 2007 4R. Had JBA HD UCAs which rubbed slightly. Nowhere as noisy as the front wheel well on the GX. Solutions are to change wheel size, width, offset, etc. I'll pass.
