GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (24 Viewers)

[Hiluxforever]

Where the rubbing is happening matters. I had stock wheels with 265/70/R17's on my lifted (2 1/2"F, 2"R) 2007 4R. Had JBA HD UCAs which rubbed slightly. Nowhere as noisy as the front wheel well on the GX. Solutions are to change wheel size, width, offset, etc. I'll pass.

My tires are rubbing on the oem uca

 

[rav8]

My tires are rubbing on the oem uca

Easy then. Change offset (which may cause rubbing elsewhere), narrow your tire section width...or reduce your tire diameter. I know my answer sucks but I think it's pretty true. Let it rub.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Easy then. Change offset (which may cause rubbing elsewhere), narrow your tire section width...or reduce your tire diameter. I know my answer sucks but I think it's pretty true. Let it rub.

What UCAs are you running? If oem, don't comment.

 

[r2m]

Yeah I'm definitely overthinking this to a factor of 100000x. I've watched Kai's (Tinkerer's Adventure) video at least five times. But because I'm already driving myself insane, here's some more info that's partially vehicle related, partially an insight into my life, and partially justification and reasoning for some decisions that I'm hoping you all can verify. Bear with me, this is going to be a lot as I basically vomit out what's on my mind here to try and make sense of it all.

Background time. There's a lot of reasons I am pursuing changing up the wheel/tire package on my GX, which buckets into one project goal to either get a more aggressive or taller tire while minimizing any extra unsprung weight at each corner and without creating a situation in which I have to find a speciality shop for an alignment and/or cut and trim extensively. I'll go into more detail later as to why these are important. It's a lot of juggling to make this "happy medium" happen.

Let's say I'm going with the 255/80/17 tire. The wheel sizes and offsets being considered to pair with this are:

• 17x8, 20mm
• 17x8, -6mm
• 17x8.5, 0mm

An 8.5" wide wheel technically works as per the tire manufacturer, but blowing the tire off the bead when airing down to ~15 PSI will always be in the back of my mind, and peace of mind is huge off-road. This rules out an 8.5" wide wheel for this tire size. So then the options are 17x8 20mm and 17x8 -6mm. As far as which is better for this application, here's how I'm deciphering things:

• The -6mm offset wheel sticks out further from the vehicle, but has a longer scrub radius. This means that there's a higher likelihood (in concept) of hitting the body mount, which with this tire size isn't too likely, but can't be ruled out. [Someone correct me if I'm wrong]. It's likely that caster will have to be maxed out for -6 to work.
• The 20mm offset wheel tucks in further, and will likely clear without issue, but running too wide of a tire on this offset can mean rubbing the UCA. In essence, this is 26mm tighter to the suspension than the -6mm wheel, which translates to 1.02" closer-- or it can be looked at as the -6 being 1.02" further out from the hub.

View attachment 3901779
For the hell of it though, let's say I were to do 285/75/17. This opens up the option of a 17x8.5" 0 offset wheel. Here's how it compares to the 17x8 -6 offset wheel:

View attachment 3901783


And here's how it compares to the 17x8 20mm offset wheel:
View attachment 3901784

Math tells me that with 285/75/17 being 33.9x11.3" and 255/80/17 being 33.1x10.0", the 285/75 is .8" taller, which is really only .4" more tire per side. This alone shouldn't be an issue fitting my GX (which has a BMC and Ironman bumper) as far as I can tell. But the 285/75 is 1.3" wider, which is over a half inch more per side. There's also a 17x8.5 -10mm offset wheel that's an option, but I understand that brings an even higher likelihood of needing to trim/cut/align in a specific way. In any capacity, the benefit of picking the 8.5" wide wheel even with 0 offset is to run a 34-35" tire, which goes back to the need to trim/cut and do a maximum-caster alignment.

I honestly can't say I trust any of the shops near me to with anything beyond a standard alignment. Definitely nowhere in my immediate vicinity that I trust to do so at least. Additionally, and here's where things get even more complex and possibly stop the 34-35" show in its tracks for the time being: I have a toddler, a newborn, and work 2 jobs. Extra time, effort, and/or money to get a tire to fit properly without any rubbing is just not in the cards right now. I keep trying to tell myself that it is, and that I can find the time to make it all work, but I'm acknowledging my free time is minimal as-is and I can't devote any of it to fighting for tire clearance. Call it adulting or maturing, but it is what it is.

All of this brings me back to the 255/80/17, which I'm not particularly excited about being shorter in diameter than would be ideal (some of the trails we run are really geared towards 35" tires) and than my current 34x10.5" tires (which measure 32.5" tall overall mounted on 17x8" wheels on the GX) but it makes for the fewest outright headaches at least for the time being.

So coming full circle, the decision again comes down to whether I should go -6mm or 20mm offset for a 17x8" wheel.

I may have missed it, what's the link to where you got your numbers?

 

[Rednexus]

So coming full circle, the decision again comes down to whether I should go -6mm or 20mm offset for a 17x8" wheel.

Just get a normal set of 17x8.5, 0-offset wheels, 285/70R17 tires of your choice, and call it good . I know you like Toyos and the AT3 in that size is pretty darn light. Or, if you want to run the 255/80R17, get the OEM TRD wheels, which I believe are +15mm offset and 17x7.5, which would be a perfect fit for a pizza cutter tire like that. With a narrow tire and positive offset, they should tuck very well and rub less than the wider and zero or negative offset wheels. You should be able to find C rated tires in both sizes and SL-rated tires in the 285s, both of which are relatively light as well.

FYI I never had any capability issues running 31.7" tires on my GX470. With SL-rated 32.8" tires (285/70R17) on it now, I have almost 13" of clearance under the front skid plate. The problems i have very occasionally approach angle and more frequently departure angle problems. I've hid my rock sliders (which are knee-high) all of once. It drags the skids some....but that's what skids are for.

Although I will probably put a set of 34s or 35s on my GX in the future when it's no longer my tow rig and daily driver, the rig wheels very, very well with 33s. Front and rear bumpers would help my rig a lot more than bigger tires would.

 

[Cold Iron]

Just get a normal set of 17x8.5, 0-offset wheels, 285/70R17 tires of your choice, and call it good . I know you like Toyos and the AT3 in that size is pretty darn light. Or, if you want to run the 255/80R17, get the OEM TRD wheels, which I believe are +15mm offset and 17x7.5, which would be a perfect fit for a pizza cutter tire like that. With a narrow tire and positive offset, they should tuck very well and rub less than the wider and zero or negative offset wheels. You should be able to find C rated tires in both sizes and SL-rated tires in the 285s, both of which are relatively light as well.

FYI I never had any capability issues running 31.7" tires on my GX470. With SL-rated 32.8" tires (285/70R17) on it now, I have almost 13" of clearance under the front skid plate. The problems i have very occasionally approach angle and more frequently departure angle problems. I've hid my rock sliders (which are knee-high) all of once. It drags the skids some....but that's what skids are for.

Although I will probably put a set of 34s or 35s on my GX in the future when it's no longer my tow rig and daily driver, the rig wheels very, very well with 33s. Front and rear bumpers would help my rig a lot more than bigger tires would.

I agree with this. When I got mine the side steps had black asphalt and scrapes on the bottom of them. The previous owner, a retired couple that snow birded in Texas, must have had some big speed bumps where they lived. No brainer that they had to go. I don't pivot off rocks I'm more worried about lateral slides into trees on icy trails so have gone with zero offset sliders for the last 2 rigs.

Front bumper chop took care of the front end approach angle. 2" lift on demand for the rear with the Lux. As long as I keep it below 15 mph and when off road I usually do, not a member of the send it club, those days are in the rear view mirror.

Adding bumpers adds weight and changes handling. Along with required suspension modifications. And going too large on tires changes drive line geometry plus components and strain on the engine and tranny. And then there is the spare tire storage.

May not look as cool as the other kids but guarantee that it will last longer. And cheaper getting there especially in the long run.

 

[Arailt]

Saw a new 4Runner today and a LC250 a little ways down in the same parking lot.

In person, they look far different enough that you would not think they are pretty much the same vehicle underneath it all so I think Toyota did a good job there. The LC and GX are fraternal twins and the 4Runner and Tacoma are siblings.

I will say that like the new Tacoma, the new 4Runner looks giant. I'm pretty sure it's ~ the same actual size as an LC or GX but it looked huge in the parking lot. I prefer the tidier packaging of the Prado twins but they are going to sell a gazillion 4 Runners

I finally saw my first 6th gen 4Runner in person. It was a TRD OR with the iforce max. Sounded like a Prius. Not at all what I expected looks wise. It drove by me and seemed much smaller than I expected. Reminded me of a 2nd gen 4Runner with the rear side windows going into the roof.

 

[Roody]

I may have missed it, what's the link to where you got your numbers?

Numbers are all directly from the respective manufacturers.

Just get a normal set of 17x8.5, 0-offset wheels, 285/70R17 tires of your choice, and call it good . I know you like Toyos and the AT3 in that size is pretty darn light. Or, if you want to run the 255/80R17, get the OEM TRD wheels, which I believe are +15mm offset and 17x7.5, which would be a perfect fit for a pizza cutter tire like that. With a narrow tire and positive offset, they should tuck very well and rub less than the wider and zero or negative offset wheels. You should be able to find C rated tires in both sizes and SL-rated tires in the 285s, both of which are relatively light as well.

FYI I never had any capability issues running 31.7" tires on my GX470. With SL-rated 32.8" tires (285/70R17) on it now, I have almost 13" of clearance under the front skid plate. The problems i have very occasionally approach angle and more frequently departure angle problems. I've hid my rock sliders (which are knee-high) all of once. It drags the skids some....but that's what skids are for.

Although I will probably put a set of 34s or 35s on my GX in the future when it's no longer my tow rig and daily driver, the rig wheels very, very well with 33s. Front and rear bumpers would help my rig a lot more than bigger tires would.

The 285/70/17 size is again becoming an option. I do prefer pizza cutters for the benefit in lessened rolling resistance vs a traditional contact patch, but there's always tradeoffs... like availability, wheel width required to safely run them at low PSI, etc. My first set of aftermarket tires for the GX was the 285/70/17 Toyo OC A/T IIIs. Probably the best tire I've ever run, but I want to try new things. The E-rated R/T Trail in that size is only 57 lbs (2 lb more than the A/T III). There's also a C-load option that's 56 lb. That size (in E load) might be worth a try.

My clearance issues are usually underbelly when rock crawling. Skid plates are a life saver. Occasionally the front bumper will grab the ground when on a super steep ascent or descent but that's fairly infrequent. If anything I could use more height.

 

[Rednexus]

Numbers are all directly from the respective manufacturers.


The 285/70/17 size is again becoming an option. I do prefer pizza cutters for the benefit in lessened rolling resistance vs a traditional contact patch, but there's always tradeoffs... like availability, wheel width required to safely run them at low PSI, etc. My first set of aftermarket tires for the GX was the 285/70/17 Toyo OC A/T IIIs. Probably the best tire I've ever run, but I want to try new things. The E-rated R/T Trail in that size is only 57 lbs (2 lb more than the A/T III). There's also a C-load option that's 56 lb. That size (in E load) might be worth a try.

My clearance issues are usually underbelly when rock crawling. Skid plates are a life saver. Occasionally the front bumper will grab the ground when on a super steep ascent or descent but that's fairly infrequent. If anything I could use more height.

I'm squarely in the SL camp - but with Wildpeaks, which are a bit heavier than their Toyo counterparts. I've been nothing but happy with SLs for wheeling, towing, and highway.

Being that you have the same FCP kit that I do, you can pretty easily adjust static ride height at the front using the threaded shock body and (if you are coil-converted from air with the threaded conversion kit) the back.. I have mine set so it has 2" of droop in the front and the rear is 1" higher than the back, which gives it huge amount of clearance (inches more than my buddy's JK Rubicon on the same size tires with a 2" lift). Some of the earlier FCP kits were known to be saggy - like mine where the original coil springs in the front bowed out. Ironman gave me new coilovers for free, and they were set at nearly 3" of lift in the front. I'd be curious what kind of clearance you have under the skids as to compare it to the settings on my rig.

 

[Roody]

I'm squarely in the SL camp - but with Wildpeaks, which are a bit heavier than their Toyo counterparts. I've been nothing but happy with SLs for wheeling, towing, and highway.

Being that you have the same FCP kit that I do, you can pretty easily adjust static ride height at the front using the threaded shock body and (if you are coil-converted from air with the threaded conversion kit) the back.. I have mine set so it has 2" of droop in the front and the rear is 1" higher than the back, which gives it huge amount of clearance (inches more than my buddy's JK Rubicon on the same size tires with a 2" lift). Some of the earlier FCP kits were known to be saggy - like mine where the original coil springs in the front bowed out. Ironman gave me new coilovers for free, and they were set at nearly 3" of lift in the front. I'd be curious what kind of clearance you have under the skids as to compare it to the settings on my rig.

I'll measure once the torrential rain stops and/or later if I have a few free minutes

 

[Hiluxforever]

Mind Blown

The 285-75r17 Yoko G003s aired down to 14 psi were great. It road as smooth as the Revos and Hakkapeliittas, but I kept a lot more ride height and banged on less stuff.

I didn't have near as much rubbing as I thought I would. I will definitely need a BMC, but it can wait for Memorial Day.


Holy Crap, Rivians can wheel. One followed us up Pennsylvania Gulch.

ATRAC works even better now.

The truck is substantial slower. Slower to accelerate, slower to brake. Not a surprise, my Revos were very light for an LT E Load range 285 70r17.

Other than the NVH, it still drived great, with minimal steering effort.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Oh and an Aussie called my truck a Land Cruiser...

 

[GrizzlyClint]

Went for a leisurely drive in the mountains on the way to a waterfall with the family. This first picture was a sign of things to come, a foreshadowing if you will. And, I didn't have a chainsaw or handsaw with me...like an idiot... I managed to move large rocks and several dead downed trees, but as you'll see at the end of this sequence, a bendy alive tree is another story. No manner of firefighter strength was enough for me to move the MF. LOL All I gotta say is snow melt and avalanches are a hell of a drug.

Well dammit...

Think thin...

 

[Rednexus]

I'm going to incorporate a chainsaw mount into my eventual rear bumper build. A cordless sawzall or hackzall is also pretty easy to keep in the rig and does a fine job of clearing smaller trees/branches with a pruning blade on it.

 

[Acrad]

I don't even bother with my gas saws anymore. My electric Makita has cleared anything I have run into on the trail.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Almost forgot. Actually used hill descent control and its alright.

 

[GrizzlyClint]

I'm going to incorporate a chainsaw mount into my eventual rear bumper build. A cordless sawzall or hackzall is also pretty easy to keep in the rig and does a fine job of clearing smaller trees/branches with a pruning blade on it.

I'll probably incorporate a carry location of some kind on my platform build in the back. Unsure how I'm going to do that yet. Haha.

I don't even bother with my gas saws anymore. My electric Makita has cleared anything I have run into on the trail.

Here's a good comparison video of battery powered chainsaws, I just need the funds to get one. So manual labor for me until that time.

 

[Cold Iron]

I don't even bother with my gas saws anymore. My electric Makita has cleared anything I have run into on the trail.

When my gas chain saw gave up the ghost I replaced it with an electric. It was hard to do but after enough research on it decided it was time to try one. Don't have a lot of acreage but enough that I need a chain saw around the house and after using it don't see myself going back to gas.

I carry an electric in the buggy when hunting Canada and Mn. Arrowhead. And an axe and bowsaw, just because I always have LOL. More than once I have had to cut my way out having been pinned in after wind creates blowdowns. @Rednexus has a great idea with the reciprocating saw and pruning blade. Hopefully next year I will remember to actually throw it in the GX before I leave, unlike last Fall

 

[GrizzlyClint]

@Rednexus has a great idea with the reciprocating saw and pruning blade

That is a fantastic idea. I do have one I can take with me, a 20V Hercules that'll cut through anything.

 

[Rednexus]

When my gas chain saw gave up the ghost I replaced it with an electric. It was hard to do but after enough research on it decided it was time to try one. Don't have a lot of acreage but enough that I need a chain saw around the house and after using it don't see myself going back to gas.

I carry an electric in the buggy when hunting Canada and Mn. Arrowhead. And an axe and bowsaw, just because I always have LOL. More than once I have had to cut my way out having been pinned in after wind creates blowdowns. @Rednexus has a great idea with the reciprocating saw and pruning blade. Hopefully next year I will remember to actually throw it in the GX before I leave, unlike last Fall

I picked up a Stihl MS261C last year. It's been an awesome little saw. I have 4.5 acres of hardwood, have cut up around a dozen read oaks in the past year, have 6+ more dead ones still standing, and another 5-6 that were knocked over by ice and wind storms. So for my purposes, gas is the way to go . If I still lived in town, I'd probably get a M18 saw.