Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
Drivers on northern I25 in colorado are notoriously s***. Pull right out into the passing lane doing 45. It sketchy AF.
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$90/hour is cheap compared to the Twin Cities, most rates are $125-150/hr here.Yesterday took the GX to my 4x4 shop for some work including the brakes. They increased the labor rate from $75 an hour to $90 an hour. They are moving to a new shop being built and apologized for the price increase and said they have to keep the lights on.
Same here. I live at the top of a steep hill (maxes out at around a 30% grade) that is about 200 ft high. On my road bike, I can hit over 48 mph on the way down! I usually put my GX in 2nd gear going down and will put it in 1st gear going down when I'm towing something. My main use of brakes is for coming to a complete stop and I use them relatively infrequently to control speed.I do a lot of down shifting, so my brakes last a very long time, and I'm still running the factory installed brakes at 180,000 on the clock.
Those are bonkers rates. My company bills some of our entry-level engineers out at similar hourly rates to that....they are young but many have graduate degrees. Not sure how much of that the actual mechanic is getting, but if it is 1/4 or 1/3 of it, they are doing pretty well without a college degree!$90/hour is cheap compared to the Twin Cities, most rates are $125-150/hr here.
If you must have the LT rating and don't tow, D is more than enough IMO. I've only run SL tires on the GX without issues (265/70/17 Pirelli Scorpion AT+ and currently 285/70/17 Baja Boss).Load Rating... what's everyone thinking for the 460s in terms of C, D, E? I ran E-rated Toyos as my first aftermarket set on the GX, and am now running D-rated KO2s. 285/75/17 Toyo Open Country A/T IIIs which are the perfect size and weight (33.9x11.3 and only 59#) are C-rated. Is that too light of a load rating for wheeling on the rocks? I'm sure it would improve day-to-day ride comfort but all of the off-roading here involves rock crawling...
If i was still a flatlander I would run oem brakes.
If you must have the LT rating and don't tow, D is more than enough IMO. I've only run SL tires on the GX without issues (265/70/17 Pirelli Scorpion AT+ and currently 285/70/17 Baja Boss).
Just going off the max load rating, the 265/70 Pirellis were the same as a C and the 285/70 Mickey Thompsons are a D. The Mickey Thompsons feel better aired down off road but no idea if that's a load rating thing or a tire model thing.
I play in the VA rocks aired down with no issues over the last 4+ years of being dumb off road. I get the sense that you used to have to get E load tires for offroading because that was the only way to get strong sidewalls, but that's not necessarily true anymore.
Aside from load rating, one has to consider what kind of off roading they'll be doing. Where we live, I have concerns about side wall puncture from sharp rocks and cholla cactus which all over in some of our deserts and known for puncturing sidewalls.Load Rating... what's everyone thinking for the 460s in terms of C, D, E? I ran E-rated Toyos as my first aftermarket set on the GX, and am now running D-rated KO2s. 285/75/17 Toyo Open Country A/T IIIs which are the perfect size and weight (33.9x11.3 and only 59#) are C-rated. Is that too light of a load rating for wheeling on the rocks? I'm sure it would improve day-to-day ride comfort but all of the off-roading here involves rock crawling...
Use case is daily driver and occasional off-roading which consists of a lot of rock crawling, frequently on wet rocks. I like the compliance of the D-rated KO2s on the road (vs E-rated I've run prior) and haven't found them to be weaker as far as sidewalls go on the trail-- maybe a little more deflection, but not much.Aside from load rating, one has to consider what kind of off roading they'll be doing. Where we live, I have concerns about side wall puncture from sharp rocks and cholla cactus which all over in some of our deserts and known for puncturing sidewalls.
A heavier rating usually provides a thicker sidewall, hence puncture protection.
But I do like a lighter side wall for the flex when airing down. It will "squish" more.
All of these are being considered:What size are you looking for?
Open Country A/T III | Wt | Actual size |
285/75/17 (C) | 59 | 33.9x11.3 |
35x11.5R17 (C) | 63 | 34.5x11.4 |
255/80/17 (E) | 51 | 33.1x10.0 |
34x10.5R17 (D) | 55 | 33.5x10.6 |
Open Country R/T Pro | ||
35x11.5R17 (E) | 66 | 34.8x11.4 |
285/70/17 (E) | 60 | 32.8x11.4 |
Open Country R/T Trail | ||
285/75/17 (E) | 63 | 33.9x11.3 |
255/80/17 (E) | 52 | 33.1x10.0 |
WHAT!! No BFG KO3's on the list!!!!All of these are being considered:
Open Country A/T III Wt Actual size 285/75/17 (C) 59 33.9x11.3 35x11.5R17 (C) 63 34.5x11.4 255/80/17 (E) 51 33.1x10.0 34x10.5R17 (D) 55 33.5x10.6 Open Country R/T Pro 35x11.5R17 (E) 66 34.8x11.4 285/70/17 (E) 60 32.8x11.4 Open Country R/T Trail 285/75/17 (E) 63 33.9x11.3 255/80/17 (E) 52 33.1x10.0
Wheel is 17x8, 0 offset, weighs 25.31 lbs. 34x10.5R17 KO2 is 54 lbs. My total per corner is currently 79.31 lb, which isn't bad.
Haha... maybe next time. The 285/75/17 is only 63.6 lbs which is pretty good, and 285/70/17 is only 56 lbs and is C load rated but I like bouncing between tire brands to get a real sense of competitive advantage and which brand is doing what well. Makes for a more even playing field when evaluating things.WHAT!! No BFG KO3's on the list!!!!
I'm hurt! Struck to the core!![]()