GX460 & GXOR B.S. thread (15 Viewers)

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I'm set on fitting 285/7017s on stock suspension. I'm aware that I'll need to cut wheel well plastics/liners and most likely a body mount chop. With that being said, what are folks with this setup using for wheels/offset? I wouldn't mind a little poke but I don't want it too wide, while I won't use wheel spacers and I'm mindful of rubbing the UCA.

I ran 285/70/17s on stock suspension for a while. +5 or +0 wheels tend to work best for clearance, though with a BMC and some plastic chopping -10 works as well. I really wouldn't go any higher than that, but you won't rub the UCA at either of offsets. Alignment and offset are what most affects clearance, but I would chop anyway if you intend to use it.

This is a 17x8.5 -8 with 285/70/17 P-rated Kenda Klever AT2 at stock height. Certain tires are bigger (P vs LT, brand to brand), so fitment varies but that's roughly what it looks like.

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I did not need a BMC for my 33x10.5s or 285/70R17s, but I run oem steelies with the least amount of poke possible to maximize tire size. I cycled the rear more than front.

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Hey everyone! I've been after a clean 2010-2013 460 for several months and finally found my gem-- 1-owner, CA its whole life and always maintained at the Lexus dealership. I've owned a 3rd generation 4Runner for the past eight years so this is quite the upgrade for me. Between the added weight and gutless 3.4, my new GX has been a real treat to drive in comparison. I plan to slap on some 33s, a rack for my RTT and fog lights on it and calling it a day. I'm sure this has been beat to death but as always I'm finding varying answers online. Thanks a bunch!

- I'm set on fitting 285/7017s on stock suspension. I'm aware that I'll need to cut wheel well plastics/liners and most likely a body mount chop. With that being said, what are folks with this setup using for wheels/offset? I wouldn't mind a little poke but I don't want it too wide, while I won't use wheel spacers and I'm mindful of rubbing the UCA.
- What simple crossbar setup are people having success with? I'll put my Superlite on but I'd like to avoid going with a full Sherpa/Prinsu system.

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Sweet! Throw a Pedal Commander on there to negate the effect of lame stock accelerator pedal programming and the larger tires you're planning on. It'll make it easier to access all the ponies you've already paid for... ;p
 
Hey everyone! I've been after a clean 2010-2013 460 for several months and finally found my gem-- 1-owner, CA its whole life and always maintained at the Lexus dealership. I've owned a 3rd generation 4Runner for the past eight years so this is quite the upgrade for me. Between the added weight and gutless 3.4, my new GX has been a real treat to drive in comparison. I plan to slap on some 33s, a rack for my RTT and fog lights on it and calling it a day. I'm sure this has been beat to death but as always I'm finding varying answers online. Thanks a bunch!

- I'm set on fitting 285/7017s on stock suspension. I'm aware that I'll need to cut wheel well plastics/liners and most likely a body mount chop. With that being said, what are folks with this setup using for wheels/offset? I wouldn't mind a little poke but I don't want it too wide, while I won't use wheel spacers and I'm mindful of rubbing the UCA.
- What simple crossbar setup are people having success with? I'll put my Superlite on but I'd like to avoid going with a full Sherpa/Prinsu system.

View attachment 3667388
If you go to my build thread, post #4: Builds - R²M 2013 GX 460 Overland Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/r-m-2013-gx-460-overland-build.1104719/
I had the exact same tire size and with my suspension setup, wheels and that size tire I had no rubbing at all.
 
Woah this is super handy. You're so thorough with your build thread. Kudos to you man-- thanks so much for the help! I'm digging the GX community here on Mud already.
One other thing to take into account with tires is if you want a Light P SL XL rated tire(40-45 lbs), a mid weight LT like a Firestone or Bridgestone(50lbs) or a heavy weight like a traditional D/E Load Range tire(55-65lbs). My Revos are around 50 lbs and are very civilized on the road.

It's all a compromise and when I cupped my MTRs I went for a much more appropriate tire. I am relocating soon and may still rue that decision, time will tell.
 
One other thing to take into account with tires is if you want a Light P SL XL rated tire(40-45 lbs), a mid weight LT like a Firestone or Bridgestone(50lbs) or a heavy weight like a traditional D/E Load Range tire(55-65lbs). My Revos are around 50 lbs and are very civilized on the road.

It's all a compromise and when I cupped my MTRs I went for a much more appropriate tire. I am relocating soon and may still rue that decision, time will tell.
Great point as well. I know more hardcore folks claim you really need Load D at least, but I'm not sure that's me. My 4Runner had Load C Falken Wildpeaks and I never got a flat or puncture of any kind. I haven't dug into it much admittedly, but does the extra weight of the GX really call for needing significantly stiffer tires? I'll definitely be getting ATs (Likely the Wildpeaks again or Toyo AT3s, though I'm curious about the Kenda Klever RT as well), but I haven't decided on load rating.
 
My E rated BFGs are rough on the road.. and from all the things I’ve read have no more protection on the sidewall than a lower rated tire. Aired down to 15 psi you almost can’t see a difference they are so stiff.
 
I've been on SL Wildpeaks for 40k. The rig gets wheeled and tows a 4k camper. Zero flats or punctures. I'll be replacing them with another set of SL tires. The SLs flex well when aired down and grip loose surfaces quite nicely. Rigid tires will have less grip and ability to conform to an uneven obstacle.
 
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I've been on SL Wildpeaks for 40k. The rig gers wheeled and tows a 4k camper. Zero flats or punctures. I'll be replacing them with another set of SL tires. The SLs flex well when aired down and grip loose surfaces quite nicely. Rigid tires will habe less grip and ability to conform to an uneven obstacle.
Just put a fresh set on yesterday. Lasted about 50k but found a machine screw in the front right tire earlier the same day. Replaced with 265/65R18 Falken Wildpeak AT3. It does fit a 2010 with factory frame mount hitch but you have to go careful when hoisting it up. Leaves about 1/2" at sway bar and hitch.
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A 33" would look/perform better but I need the factory spare location for now.
 
Great point as well. I know more hardcore folks claim you really need Load D at least, but I'm not sure that's me. My 4Runner had Load C Falken Wildpeaks and I never got a flat or puncture of any kind. I haven't dug into it much admittedly, but does the extra weight of the GX really call for needing significantly stiffer tires? I'll definitely be getting ATs (Likely the Wildpeaks again or Toyo AT3s, though I'm curious about the Kenda Klever RT as well), but I haven't decided on load rating.
A thicker side wall will help prevent rim pinches and side wall punctures a wee bit more, but for myself, I don't like rock crawling (not that I couldn't) and since I'm more of an overlander, ride quality is more important to me (and the wife) hence I try to be easy on my tires and prefer to have a thinner wall for ride quality. Even when I air down to 10 psi.
But to your point, as heavy as my rig is, and I have it very modded out for overlanding, I've been just fine with a lighter tire.
 
I used to be solid in the E load camp a decade or more ago but no longer. Tires have changed over time. When I retired from the Navy almost 30 years ago one of the first gigs I had was with Michelin North American HQ in Greenville, SC as a consultant doing BPI. Originally was Business Process Reengineering but that became a dirty word, Dilbert was onto something there, so was changed to Improvement. Tire companies have huge labs and teams of people constantly working on improving everything they can on tires including sidewalls.

I am now in the SL\C camp and worry as much about weight on the corners as well as reliability and ride comfort. And a spare that fits in the factory location. Only been 9 months but so far but count me in the AT3 Wildpeaks group as well. 265 70 17" for a little bit more sidewall

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When these 5 wear out not sure where I will land as the AT4 are heavier and the tires slightly larger so will not fit in the factory location. I will worry about that when I get there but will most likely stay in the SL\C range but only tow ~2,500 pounds max.
 
Great point as well. I know more hardcore folks claim you really need Load D at least, but I'm not sure that's me. My 4Runner had Load C Falken Wildpeaks and I never got a flat or puncture of any kind. I haven't dug into it much admittedly, but does the extra weight of the GX really call for needing significantly stiffer tires? I'll definitely be getting ATs (Likely the Wildpeaks again or Toyo AT3s, though I'm curious about the Kenda Klever RT as well), but I haven't decided on load rating.
I've only run SL tires on the GX and have had no issues with reasonably serious off-roading or the extra 400lbs of stuff I've bolted on. I ran 265/70/17 Pirelli AT+ for 3 years, and switched to 285/70/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss in February this year. I think the insistence that you have to run a D or E load tire or it will go flat the instant it touches a rock is dated wisdom. Most of the new AT/RT/MT tires have significant design/construction considerations to puncture resistance in the tread and sidewall so you don't have to get a high load LT tire just so the sidewall is thick enough it doesn't get cut on some gravel.
 
I've only run SL tires on the GX and have had no issues with reasonably serious off-roading or the extra 400lbs of stuff I've bolted on. I ran 265/70/17 Pirelli AT+ for 3 years, and switched to 285/70/17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss in February this year. I think the insistence that you have to run a D or E load tire or it will go flat the instant it touches a rock is dated wisdom. Most of the new AT/RT/MT tires have significant design/construction considerations to puncture resistance in the tread and sidewall so you don't have to get a high load LT tire just so the sidewall is thick enough it doesn't get cut on some gravel.

The Pirelli AT+ were my first SL tires I owned put them on my Taco when the KO2 wore out, got them when they first came out.

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They were a good tire the first couple of years then on the 3rd year started slipping badly in snow and ice. I recall the engineers at Michelin telling me that some companies put softer rubber on the outside then progressively harder the deeper you go to give longer tread life. I suspect that was the case with them. Doesn't mean the newer ones are the same way tire companies are constantly playing around with formulations.
 
I think that is a common practice with most all terrains to improve tread life and also handling and road feel. I would imagine a deep tread AT/RT that has tread blocks made entirely of soft, grippy rubber is going to be very squirmy in any kind of high speed maneuver.
I liked the Pirellis but had the same experience - at some point around 30k miles they stop working on ice and snow.
 
Bridgestone used to do the opposite with the Duelers, where a second compound you wore into would help maintain consistent grip. I loved them on my 5 lug pickups, they always hooked up until they were worn out. Couldn't afford to compromise with rwd, open differential and no traction control, on hard packed snow or ice.
 
As good a place as any to say hello again. Had a GX 460 that I built out moderately but sold it a couple years ago d/t work changes. I haven't been on the forum in a while as a result.
I am in the process of purchasing another GX 460 currently. I will post up details when the deal is finalized. I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch. Looking forward to getting back in the trails with the new rig, such a capable vehicle, I have missed mine ever since I sold it.
 

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