Group Buy - 100 Series Headers (13 Viewers)

[smm3]

my pm's go right to email, so feel free to ask questions if you need help... or post here, there's a couple of us who have done the headers ourselves.

realistically, the determinant of whether your day will go well or not will be getting the original nuts off the studs. I was lucky and got them all loose with hand tools and had zero studs break or back out. If you're corrosion-free you can probably expect a good day. If not, use PB blaster ahead of time to improve your odds.

These pics show the block/jack. Not the best angles, but you get the idea.

The 2nd one shows where I removed the dipstick and plugged the hole with a shop towel.

thanks for sending me the pics. The install went well. turns out the guy who helped me had a cherry picker so we just lifted the engine using the hook on the top of the engine. We didn't have a single stud break so it went fairly smoothly.

We decided against removing the steering components so it added probably an hour onto the install time. It took us between 6.5-7.5 hours but we took our time and finished it in 2 days. Cold beverages also added to the time...

I really notice a difference in the throttle response. I am very pleased with the results and think it is a worthwhile mod if you have cracked manifolds.

 

[smm3]

Did anyone in this group buy install the headers on an 06 or 07? Wanted to make sure before ordering a set from the new group buy.

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Yeah same experience here...for those that dwell at sea level the header project is very worthwhile IMO even if you don't have cracked OEM manifolds!

This convinced me

Has anyone put Headers on a VVT-I yet? My cruiser has the equivalent of 47,000 miles and I'm thinking of replacing the O2's with Desno's. Thinking new gaskets from CDAN, along with a stud or two...this cruiser has always lived in the desert.

 

[Blink]

Is there a write up anywhere on how to change the headers yourself?

 

[smm3]

Is there a write up anywhere on how to change the headers yourself?

DT sends some pretty good instructions. I used those and printed out some of the pages from this thread where people added tips that helped with their install. I know the thread is long but everything you need is included in the thread. I can add the pages I printed off then I get home if you think that would help you....Just let me know.

 

[OregonLC]

Is there a write up anywhere on how to change the headers yourself?

collectively in these 25 pages, yes.

It's not hard unless you have a seized nut on one of your studs. It's just time consuming. Figure 1 day for the first side then 0.5 days for the 2nd. The DS is the hardest. I removed my steering shaft (easy) but others have left theirs in place. You do 90% of the work from inside the wheel well.

I did mine with hand tools. The only time I needed air was on the collector bolts.

 

[coinball]

So are these headers actually different than the Tundra headers?

From what I can visually confirm, it looks like the Tundra/Sequoia headers floating around on eBay look identical to what I'm seeing in this thread.

 

[2000UZJ]

So are these headers actually different than the Tundra headers?

From what I can visually confirm, it looks like the Tundra/Sequoia headers floating around on eBay look identical to what I'm seeing in this thread.

they are not. They differ where they meet at the firewall. It has been tried before.

 

[1loudLX]

So are these headers actually different than the Tundra headers?

From what I can visually confirm, it looks like the Tundra/Sequoia headers floating around on eBay look identical to what I'm seeing in this thread.

they are not. They differ where they meet at the firewall. It has been tried before.

Correct. The angle in which it turns down to the exhaust and length are both different. I attempted to test fit JBA Tundra 4.7 headers a few years ago and it hit the firewall before I could even get it seated up against the engine. But coinball, you can try and prove me wrong

These DT headers are the best deal we can get in NA for a set of headers. I've seen stuff overseas for RHD vehicles but those would not fit either, and if there's anything available in the gulf/M.E. the logistics would make it cost prohibitive.

 

[coinball]

Correct. The angle in which it turns down to the exhaust and length are both different. I attempted to test fit JBA Tundra 4.7 headers a few years ago and it hit the firewall before I could even get it seated up against the engine. But coinball, you can try and prove me wrong ************

These DT headers are the best deal we can get in NA for a set of headers. I've seen stuff overseas for RHD vehicles but those would not fit either, and if there's anything available in the gulf/M.E. the logistics would make it cost prohibitive.

Thanks for the info! I would have done like you and picked up a set of $100 ebay headers just for giggles and tried them out...

 

[RobRed]

Wasn't someone going to post Dyno results before and after installing these as well?

For those that subscribed to this thread and havent seen the others...

Dyno Should be completed by 9/8/11

https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/514381-dt-headers-dyno-result-thread.html

 

[Layonnn]

Figured i'd post this here:

I am installing these tomorrow and bought all new studs, nuts, gaskets etc.

When i am installing the new studs, should i use any type of thread lock or antiseize?
For the nuts, should i use antiseize or is it not needed?

What are the torque values for the studs and for the nuts?

Where in the world can you buy a single E10 sized socket for the studs. I went to sears but they only had a full set available for 40 bucks.

 

[OregonLC]

Figured i'd post this here:

I am installing these tomorrow and bought all new studs, nuts, gaskets etc.

When i am installing the new studs, should i use any type of thread lock or antiseize?
For the nuts, should i use antiseize or is it not needed?

What are the torque values for the studs and for the nuts?

Where in the world can you buy a single E10 sized socket for the studs. I went to sears but they only had a full set available for 40 bucks.

I can't help you on the studs as mine were fine. I did use anti-seize on the nuts. I did not use a torque wrench. Primarily because I didn't have one at the time, but in reality I'm not sure you could get a solid number out of the thing with the convoluted access. I got them two-grunt tight (12" ratchet or 10" box/open). Drove it for a day, re-torqued to the same (didn't find and change) and have had zero probs in 12 months.

 

[lexi4darin]

Is there a write up anywhere on how to change the headers yourself?

Blink - the headers come with instructions from DT. There are also some good bits in this thread and in others at Mud to help add to your complete guide.

It's really hard to fathom how someone would actually write a more detailed instruction manual than what DT has already provided. The reason being that a lot of how the work gets done depends on the person and combination of tools.

For instance, when RobRed and I did our trucks, we actually did them back to back but yet we used different tools for each truck. For us, it depended on who was doing the work of turning the tool. His arm and mine just don't bend the exact same and a different sized tool is required in such tight spots depending on how big/long/wide you are. Plus there's the tolerances of pain. Flexibility to hold a tool through a weird angle. Etc.

More important than a more exact step-by-step instruction set would be a wide range of tools and a good friend.

 

[lexi4darin]

More important than a more exact step-by-step instruction set would be a wide range of tools and a good friend.

Thankfully RobRed's cat was there so I had a decent pal helping me along.

 

[RobRed]

Cant get much done without Fang.

 

[shadeanimal]

Installation tips

I sorted through the posts and compiled this list of tips/suggestions for installing the headers. I plan to give this to the shope doing the installs and hope that you folks can help make sure it's right. Hopefully, it'll also be helpful for anybody that does this in the future.

Thanks.[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One tool that will make the whole job alot easier a 14mm 3/4 length impact swivel socket, it is a regular swivel socket but the actual socket is sized in between a regular (shallow) and deep.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

Order new manifold gaskets, cat converter gaskets, 16 manifold studs and nuts[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

Order new pre-cat 02 sensors?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

Remove the heat shield before removing the oem manifold[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Remove the dipstick before removing the oem manifold[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Undo the two forward clips on the passenger side O2 sensor wiring to give the cable enough slack to pull the factory harness rear toward the relo'd O2 sensor then zip tie to hard tubing running along block.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

Undo the two brackets bolted to the block which hold the driver side O2 harness. The harness comes from up by the starter, so just snake it back under the heat shield and you have plenty of room. Install driver side O2 sensor after the header is in place then zip tie it to another bundle[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

Remove both the two 14mm lower engine mount bolts plus the top 17mm bolt and rotate the engineIH8MUD Forum - https://forum.ih8mud.com/ up about an inch [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]

Replace the dipstick before installing the DT headers[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Consider removing the steering shaft. Two 12mm bolts on the top and one on the bottom. You need to pull the front skid plate to get to the bottom shaft clamp, but it's an easy removal. Once loose, slide it up toward the firewall to get it off the rack, then back forward to slide it off the column. One end of the coupling slides, the other is fixed. It slides up toward the firewall. The shaft side is fixed. You do, of course, need to remove the bolts completely from the firewall side of the coupling and the rack end of the shaft as there is a notch the bolt slides through. To get a good slide, I also loosened the shaft-side bolt on the coupling. To get it off the rack you do need to articulate the u-joint just a little.

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Clean all splines and lube them with some medium weight grease. Install the coupling on the shaft while out of the vehicle. Where the shaft meets the coupling next to the firewall, it will only go into a single clock position. If you look on the coupling, there is a slot on the back side (opposite the split) and I think it may be keyed. So to index it, you leave the upper coupling bolt undone (which allows sliding) and you clock it at the rack.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Put the bolt in but only finger tight. Install the shaft, slipping the coupling onto the firewall splines first, making sure there is smooth up-down travel (don't forget the thrust washer! This will prevent the shaft from coming into the cabin and saying 'hi' in an accident!). Don't put in the upper bolt yet. Crawl underneath, push the shaft from below as far toward the firewall as she will go while articulating the u-joint slightly above the rack splines and then guide them down on to the rack. Install the lower bolt and then the upper, tightening all three.[/FONT]

Thank you - the shop I had install my headers was able to use these tips and solve the O2 Sensor extension problem! Yay!

 

[m0nkie]

where do i order this bad boy!

and does it affect smog check in CA?

 

[trdcorolla]

where do i order this bad boy!

and does it affect smog check in CA?

Not CARB approved for CA