Ground Gremlins Growing (1 Viewer)

[STIGPIG]

So a few months ago my battery light came on.

I whipped into a parts store and tossed a 100Amp alternator on it.

3 days later the light came back so I went to the parts store.

They tested both the battery and alternator. Both checked out OK.

Verified elsewhere.

Getting steady 13.6-14 volts when the engine is running so it's clearly charging.

I cleaned battery terminals, grounds and anything obvious. No dice.

When I plug my OBD2 Torq module in I am reading only 12.6 volts according to the ECM.


To further complicate things I had a passenger side low beam go out.

Bulb and ballast are good. Found blown fuse for light. Fuse pops as soon as I replace it. The pin towards the front of the car has power but the one towards the rear is grounded. I did not see anything immediately obvious like chaffed wires, etc.

Is my fuse block crapping out on me?

 

[STIGPIG]

Bump

 

[marshotel]

Maybe the ballast for your headlights is faulty (or wired wrong).

It sounds like you have aftermarket "HID" headlights on your rig. Are they wired through a relay? or directly to the headlight circuit? I think HID ballast draws more current right when you turn them on in order to strike the arc in the HID bulb. Maybe the initial current draw of the HID system is not compatible with the circuit you are using.

Are you sure the polarity is correct at all the HID connections and other aftermarket electronics that may have been added?

From what you describe, it sounds like maybe an aftermarket wiring problem.

Not sure about "the fuse block crapping out," but it might be worth checking the fusable link (attached to the positive pole of your battery). I have heard that sometimes the fusible link can corrode over time leading to symptoms you describe.

I bet it is a dodgy connection near the battery or faulty aftermarket wiring.
Let us know what you discover.

Hope this helps

 

[STIGPIG]

Marshotel I appreciate the reply.

I do indeed have aftermarket HIDs but they have worked for the past 3 months without issue.

You bringing up the fact that it might cause too much current draw initially makes a lot of sense though.


I am actually testing for power between the blue 15a fuse (should be a 10a but im using it for testing) and the OEM connector itself.

I can use a Power Probe III to apply voltage on the right side fuse terminal and I hear a relay click on the passenger side before it trips the breaker in my PP.


When using my PP to check the OEM headlight connector it shows both sides are grounds.

So somewhere between the fuse block and the OEM headlight connector the positive is shorted to ground.

I also included some pictures of the relay located on the passenger side between the air box and fender.


Keep it coming guys. I'm about to pull my hair out between this and a vibration that's sucking my wallet dry. (Ordering OEM CV shafts today )

 

[Julian Stead]

This might sound abit vague but it is hard to explain what to do, but you need to do voltage drop testing to find any bad cables or connections in your circuits, good fault finding techniques are a must. A multi meter can send you in circles if not used properly, a amp clamp or test light is easier to use.

 

[STIGPIG]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...er+probe+3&dpPl=1&dpID=51B17Jt2tjL&ref=plSrch

I am using this little guy. You hook it up to the battery and it tells you if it's a positive or negative circuit when you put the probe on it. It also displays voltage like a VM.

The tool can also apply positive or negative to the circuit for testing. That's how I got my current point.

I cannot perform a voltage drop test as the circuit is grounded and blows fuses before I can further diagnose it.


I am considering buying one of these of I we can't figure it out.

Power Probe ECT2000 Short Open Circuit Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6UO2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5grMxbZB5BP1G

I used to have one as a mechanic. The handheld wireless module will actually indicate where the circuit is shorted or even tell you where a wire is broken internally.

I'd like to avoid buying tools again if I can since I had to buy SPC UCAs earlier this month and today I'm going to have to drop $900 on new CV shafts

 

[aging fleet]

I'm a novice with most things electrical so, if it were me, I'd try to figure out if it's the aftermarket HID wiring causing the problem. I'm not sure what you had to do to wire those up, but is it possible to swap in the OEM Halogen bulb wiring to see if the problem persists? Or, if the aftermarket wiring and ballasts are simply disconnected, can you power the circuit without the fuses blowing?

Good luck!

 

[STIGPIG]

The HID kit was plug and play. Just like plugging in a light bulb.

The ballasts are fine. The passenger side low beam plug isn't getting an supply voltage from the positive pin.

Pops fuse as soon as it is installed.

 

[Julian Stead]

To find the short circuit I would use a test lamp, I own something similar to the probe you have, it isnt the best testing piece of equipment as it doesn't provide load and close the circuit, pull the connector of the lamp and put a test light across the fuse,if it lights up then you have a short to ground between them points, you then disconnect as much as you can untill the lamp goes out, relays and connectors etc.

 

[Julian Stead]

Ps. You need a wiring diagram, otherwise your working blind. A permanent fault like yours are the easiest to find, that is subject to how much information you have and test procedures you use though. If it was intermittant then that is abit more difficult.

 

[STIGPIG]

Does anyone have the wiring diagram?

I usually don't have good luck trying to find accurate diagrams on the Googlez.

 

[labcab]

Does anyone have the wiring diagram?

I usually don't have good luck trying to find accurate diagrams on the Googlez.

Here is a link to the 2004 EWD:
http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/EWD.pdf

I'd recommend picking up one for you model year:
NEW 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Wiring Diagram Manual Original Electrical Schematic

$39 is well worth it.