Green coolant vs. Red coolant (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Oh boy, this thread :D. Since it's bumped, I'll throw in my 2c. I say, do what Toyota recommends. So then, as per the FSM, for the 1FZ-FE:

"Use a good brand of ethylene-glycol base coolant and mix it according to the manufacturer's directions."

And as per the FSM for the 1HZ and 1HD-T:

"Use a good brand of ethylene-glycol or TOYOTA radiator conditioner or equivalent anticorrosive, mixed according to the manufacturer's directions."

There you go guys. Nothing special about the Toyota red IMO. It isn't distilled from a magical stream blessed by the gods. I personally run with Nulon green here in Aus, mixed at 50:50 with distilled water. It's a good brand, widely available, anti-freeze, anti-boil, corrosive inhibiting, and listed to be safe with aluminium, steel, cast iron, solder, copper and brass.

I'd probably run Toyota red if it was easily available in a bind. But it's not. I want my Landcruiser to be reliable, which also means easy to deal with when problems do arise. The coolant system is the part of a vehicle most likely to develop a sudden problem on the go IME, and running an obscure coolant that barely exists on this continent is something I consider a liability.
 
I used to be pretty hesitant about the colors of coolant. That was until I realized that each coolant has different additives and those additives are designed for specific applications. Some coolants will be corrosive on seals, freeze plugs, water pump bearings, etc. they weren't designed for.

Now if you mix colors, there's plenty of evidence to show that it does indeed sludge.

I am by no means an "OEM or die" type of cruiser owner, but I think using the fluids designed for the vehicle make a lot of sense. That said, you could probably run green and it'd be fine. It just wouldn't be optimal.
 
That’s all I was really asking, and specifically about phosphates, as I don’t know the answer to how important they truly are to Toyotas. Couldn’t care less about what color it is, or what brand, so long as it’s a good choice.
 
My 95 has had green in it for 13+ years. I drained and filled it twice in the 8 years i've owned it, then 2 years ago did a full flush just prior to a water pump, rad and hoses. The amount of sand like crap that came out of the motor was insane. Several cups worth. Ended up doing 7 flushes, the first few with prestone flush, then a few with a 2.5% acid white vinegar/distilled water mix, then one with baking soda to neutralize the acid, then another distilled water flush. I put green back in it since I had several gallons on the shelf. Still on the original head gasket too.
 
After only 26 years in the car business I respectfully disagree with you.

I use ONLY OEM Toyota coolant, period.
I have oreillys green in my rig, that's what the shop I work at had. Havent ran it much after rebuild but having some overheating the starts to happen so I shut it down. Wondering if the wrong coolant is the cause of this, and how to completely flush out the system.

Thanks,
Dan
 
Just did the thermostat and water pump on my 200. My mechanic says always use OEM Toyota Red in all my Toyotas.
 
My 95 has had green in it for 13+ years. I drained and filled it twice in the 8 years i've owned it, then 2 years ago did a full flush just prior to a water pump, rad and hoses. The amount of sand like crap that came out of the motor was insane. Several cups worth. Ended up doing 7 flushes, the first few with prestone flush, then a few with a 2.5% acid white vinegar/distilled water mix, then one with baking soda to neutralize the acid, then another distilled water flush. I put green back in it since I had several gallons on the shelf. Still on the original head gasket too.
what did the sand come from? Just did a rebuild and wondering if the machine shop power washed the block, or if all the "crap" accumultes elsewhere in the system.

Dan
 
what did the sand come from? Just did a rebuild and wondering if the machine shop power washed the block, or if all the "crap" accumultes elsewhere in the system.

Dan
Its the sediment left over from mixing red and green coolant.
 
Its the sediment left over from mixing red and green coolant.
If theres a residual amount of red coolant in the coolant lines can this cause a problematic amount of sediment as well?
 
it will cause an amount of sediment proportional to the ratio of red and green in the system, it may or may not cause problems depending on how clean or dirty the radiator core was before switching to green. If your motor was professionally rebuilt, the block was at a minimum run through a vat that would have cleaned it properly. Doing a vinegar flush will make the system completely clean without question, unless you have radiator rows that are completely clogged. You can get a good idea of that by looking in the radiator cap hole.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom