Great HWY mpg… (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Main factors in MPG
- speed
- fuel with or without 10% ethanol (lots of engines see a straight 10% difference in consumption)
- tire pressure
 
Dont know how you guys do it....I just did 350 miles at 82 MPH and average around 14.5. I cannot go slower out here. Flat and straight for miles between Dallas and Midland. I guess I should try going the speed limit, but it is just sooooo sllloooooowwww..
 
Must be nice. I was laughing to myself today after realizing how poor my '15 lx w sliders, front runner rack, 34" BFG has been these last 6 months. 75-80mph typical work commute ...lucky to see 14-15mpg. Was even rationalizing the decision to purchase '21 M5 Comp for significant work commute bump in mpg (21-23).
 
I consistently get 15 around town and 16-17 on the highway (16 at 80mph, 17 at 70mph). The mpgs are so consistent that I hardly even look at it anymore - just make sure the range pops up to 310-330 miles when I refill.

Seth
'21 LC200
 
I consistently get 15 around town and 16-17 on the highway (16 at 80mph, 17 at 70mph). The mpgs are so consistent that I hardly even look at it anymore - just make sure the range pops up to 310-330 miles when I refill.

Seth
'21 LC200
The land cruiser does many things well, including guzzling gas. I’ve embraced the suck…
I for one am grateful that Toyota puts reliability and safety ahead of fuel economy. Years ago I owned a gm suburban with the afm 5.3. Truck got 20 on the highway, but consumed a quart of oil every 1k miles. Engine was done at 110k miles. Which is better for the environment?
 
found the perfect thread! I was just wondering, driving around town and some highway, then more town, I could never break the 15MPG threshold even after a whole day of highway driving between NY and NJ, maybe the NJ garden state pkwy and turnpike and 287 etc etc are not considered REAL highways.... or, my computer is stupid.

Also, the past 48 hrs, after refuel, driving only in town, reduced it to 9.8MPG.... and about 10 miles of I-287 driving brought it up to 10.5MPG. Maybe I need to stay on the highway for a continuous 4 hours plus to break the 15 threshold?

My other question is, anybody compared Tundra's (5.7L) MPG with the 200 series?
I had a 15' Tundra crewmax 2wd for 6 years and now have a 21' TRD Pro crewmax. The 2wd got slightly better mileage than my 21' Land Cruiser and my TRD Pro gets slightly worse gas mileage. I'd say average for my rural SC commuting would be 16.5 mpg 2wd Tundra, 15.5 mpg LC HE, and 15 mpg TRD Pro. The TRD Pro Tundra factory 2" leveling really makes the most difference between the 3 in fuel economy. Hood is about 5" higher than the LC. TRD pro has stock sized Ridge Grapplers, and just put 285/65-18 KO2's on the Land Cruiser so I expect it will sink to TRD Pro levels of gas suckage.
 


Has anyone had experience with this mod?

wondering how well it could improve mpg.
I’m currently in the 12 mpg range after putting on 285’s

this upgrade is 1400 in parts alone
So if I can save 300 gallons in fuel ish
If I get 3 more mpg
Maybe after about 90 fillups I’ll break even??

love to rationalize…
4.88s did not improve my mileage on the highway with 34s. It did seem to help when in serious city driving. That said don’t let me stop you from rationalizing them…
 
What stupid responses, yours and that other one. I filled up the second before I got on the interstate and the computer resets. About a 100 mile drive. Chattanooga to Knoxville is NOT a flat drive.

I have no reason to make this up. My particular truck will deliver 20MPG on a steady cruise 70-75 MPH. That’s such a pleasant surprise.

20MPG HWY is still decent even for a 2021 BOF heavy SUV. This is a 2008 platform.
I believe it. normally you have to work to make the truck get close but sometimes you get lucky. Running premium, moderate ambient air temps, highway (not a/t) tires, taking advantage of the downhills and allowing yourself to lose a bit of speed on the uphills, etc will all help.

Fwiw I have a winch bumper, lift, roof rack, 34” A/T tires, and 4.88 gears and I’ve seen 19.1mpg on the computer (which is exactly 20 mpg when correcting for tire size) on a ~60 mile drive. Granted the one time I saw that was during my gear break-in where I never broke 50 mph and would take an absolute eternity to reach that speed.

now I get about 13mpg whether I’m in pure city or cruising 75-80 on the highway. The only exception is towing where I get about half that
 
Got 17 yesterday averaging around 65 from Washington to California 805 miles.
Empty truck
 
Interesting responses. I'll be making another out of town drive again and will report back.

Again, I only use REGULAR 87 gas FWIW. I have no idea other than a few educated guesses why I'm getting such good highway mileage.

If I can consistently get 20MPG at 72 MPH I'll never drive faster than that on trips, lol. I've had enough tickets in my life anyway.
 
To average 65 I was driving . . . Faster. That includes fuel and nature stops.
 
I remember years ago someone said on the Lexus forums that you could get 20MPG on the freeway and I didn't believe it. I know this thing is a gas guzzler but I don't use premium so that sort of "adds MPG" in a way, saving considerable money each month on gas. Most competitors are designed for premium fuel.
 
Just gonna bump this thread,
Drove from Grand Junction CO to Denver CO on Yokahama Parada p285/50/20 at mostly 85-90MPH and got a solid 20MPG.
Drove back on KO2-C 285/70/17 with Rock Warriors and got 17MPG.

I don't think I've seen 6th gear since the swap and that 3MPG, if recouped, will net about $1500 every 5 years driving 10k miles a year with $3 gas, so basically free tires.

285/50r20 setup 78# 31.2"
285/70/17 setup 75# 32.7"

I suspect the KO2 setup has more weight at the perimeter of the tires, has a larger diameter and more wind resistance.

I want to get 20MPG on 32.9" p-275/60r20 Defenders, an 80# setup. It will be taller than the KO2s and have even more wind resistance but more of the weight will be in the wheel.

How big can I go and still be able to drive 70-80MPH at 1500RPM in 6th gear?
 
Just gonna bump this thread,
Drove from Grand Junction CO to Denver CO on Yokahama Parada p285/50/20 at mostly 85-90MPH and got a solid 20MPG.
Drove back on KO2-C 285/70/17 with Rock Warriors and got 17MPG.

I don't think I've seen 6th gear since the swap and that 3MPG, if recouped, will net about $1500 every 5 years driving 10k miles a year with $3 gas, so basically free tires.
rs, an 80# setup. It will be taller than the KO2s and have even more wind resistance but more of the weight will be in the wheel.

How big can I go and still be able to drive 70-80MPH at 1500RPM in 6th gear?

Are you saying the truck won't hold 6th gear bc aftermarket tires "drag" too much? They must be heavy AF.
 
I'm at just under 2k RPM doing 80 even on a decline and if I remember correctly the OEM setup was closer to 1500RPM at that speed.
Not sure if it's more the weight of my specific setup or the wind resistance but yes I believe my setup is preventing me from getting into 6th.
 
I'm at just under 2k RPM doing 80 even on a decline and if I remember correctly the OEM setup was closer to 1500RPM at that speed.
Not sure if it's more the weight of my specific setup or the wind resistance but yes I believe my setup is preventing me from getting into 6th.
Did you do a gear swap?
 
Did you do a gear swap?
Was just reading a thread on that and looking at prices on cruiseroutfitters. 4.88 and run 33.5/34" (defenders bc big rig trucker vibes) and have the option to tow, or drop back down to 32".
 
You can check all this stuff with a OBDII bluetooth dongle and obd fusion. Verify gear, lockup, and much more.
 
Just gonna bump this thread,
Drove from Grand Junction CO to Denver CO on Yokahama Parada p285/50/20 at mostly 85-90MPH and got a solid 20MPG.
Drove back on KO2-C 285/70/17 with Rock Warriors and got 17MPG.

I don't think I've seen 6th gear since the swap and that 3MPG, if recouped, will net about $1500 every 5 years driving 10k miles a year with $3 gas, so basically free tires.

285/50r20 setup 78# 31.2"
285/70/17 setup 75# 32.7"

I suspect the KO2 setup has more weight at the perimeter of the tires, has a larger diameter and more wind resistance.

I want to get 20MPG on 32.9" p-275/60r20 Defenders, an 80# setup. It will be taller than the KO2s and have even more wind resistance but more of the weight will be in the wheel.

How big can I go and still be able to drive 70-80MPH at 1500RPM in 6th gear?
Wind resistance is a thing, but the primary difference is the more robust construction (aka “heavier”, though the weight itself isn’t the issue unless climbing a hill). This thicker construction has more internal friction and generates more heat within the tire carcass than a P-metric.. heat that came from your fuel.
 
Just gonna bump this thread,
Drove from Grand Junction CO to Denver CO on Yokahama Parada p285/50/20 at mostly 85-90MPH and got a solid 20MPG.
Drove back on KO2-C 285/70/17 with Rock Warriors and got 17MPG.

I don't think I've seen 6th gear since the swap and that 3MPG, if recouped, will net about $1500 every 5 years driving 10k miles a year with $3 gas, so basically free tires.

285/50r20 setup 78# 31.2"
285/70/17 setup 75# 32.7"

I suspect the KO2 setup has more weight at the perimeter of the tires, has a larger diameter and more wind resistance.

I want to get 20MPG on 32.9" p-275/60r20 Defenders, an 80# setup. It will be taller than the KO2s and have even more wind resistance but more of the weight will be in the wheel.

How big can I go and still be able to drive 70-80MPH at 1500RPM in 6th gear?
I’m running 275/60/r20 bfg’s on stock rims. At 75mph, my dash is saying 16mpg. At 80mph, it drops to 15mpg. No way in hell could you run 85 mph in this rig and get 20mpg. I think it’s physically not possible when stock.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom