- Thread starter
- #41
more pics
Got My First FZJ80 Last Night
- Thread starter SM Racing
- Start date
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RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
that is some serious mad, damn.. Did the heep make it through?
Welcome !
Cool.
Breaking the Cruiser in properly.
Breaking the Cruiser in properly.- Thread starter
- #46
Yes I replaced the power steering pump and now silence. Its great. Although my wife said the Belts are squealing when the AC is engaged. I will be checking it tonight. She also said the check engine light came on tonight. Probably the EGR sensor, but I'll scan it and see what the deal is.
No I pulled the Heep from the other side. That hole could eat many a vehicle. Its getting worse everyday. We will have to go maintain it soon and fill it back up.
No I pulled the Heep from the other side. That hole could eat many a vehicle. Its getting worse everyday. We will have to go maintain it soon and fill it back up.
- Thread starter
- #47
Its been a while since i posted but I have been working several different aspects of the rig. Rubbed, polished and waxed the truck. Looks almost brand new. I love the paint Toyota uses on these. Also replaced all the flare gaskets to fix the old cracked and broken stock gaskets. Installed the Gamiviti plugs on the power seats, that fixed the forward and back, however the passenger seat recline switch is acting up and seems to be not making contact. Guess I'll need to pull it apart and clean it.
Anyway on the the other items. I installed new front rotors, cleaned and repacked the front wheel bearings and replaced the inner wheel seals, replaced the rear inner wheel seal as it was leaking, rebuilt all the calipers with new Toyota parts, installed Hawk LTS 100series front pads and Wagner stock replacement pads on the rear. I also cleaned the rear parking brake shoes and flushed the fluid with fresh clean fluid. I also pulled the rear LSPV and disassembled it to clean and make sure it was properly working. I have attached some pics to show the insides of this valve in case anyone else chooses to do something similar. I was pretty corroded inside. I cleaned all the rust out and wiped all the seals down, then reassembled it with some moly grease. Once I reinstalled it, I adjusted it for the ride height changes due to the lift.
The truck now stops much better, actually stops pretty nice for something so big. I am still debating putting a bigger front rotor on, but so far 13 and 14 in rotors are looking pretty pricey. I figure a front upgrade to 13 or 14in rotors with a caliper spacer should improve braking nicely for the trucks equipped with bigger tires. Plus it will fit inside the stock 16in wheels.
That's about it for now. Gonna work on a few other projects now.
Anyway on the the other items. I installed new front rotors, cleaned and repacked the front wheel bearings and replaced the inner wheel seals, replaced the rear inner wheel seal as it was leaking, rebuilt all the calipers with new Toyota parts, installed Hawk LTS 100series front pads and Wagner stock replacement pads on the rear. I also cleaned the rear parking brake shoes and flushed the fluid with fresh clean fluid. I also pulled the rear LSPV and disassembled it to clean and make sure it was properly working. I have attached some pics to show the insides of this valve in case anyone else chooses to do something similar. I was pretty corroded inside. I cleaned all the rust out and wiped all the seals down, then reassembled it with some moly grease. Once I reinstalled it, I adjusted it for the ride height changes due to the lift.
The truck now stops much better, actually stops pretty nice for something so big. I am still debating putting a bigger front rotor on, but so far 13 and 14 in rotors are looking pretty pricey. I figure a front upgrade to 13 or 14in rotors with a caliper spacer should improve braking nicely for the trucks equipped with bigger tires. Plus it will fit inside the stock 16in wheels.
That's about it for now. Gonna work on a few other projects now.
- Thread starter
- #48
Some pics of the truck after I polished it and waxed it.
how long did it take to replace all of the flare gaskets? nice work so far!
- Thread starter
- #50
My wife would say a month. But the reality is probably an hour maybe two to do all of them. It wasn't a bad job. I unbolted mine instead of trying to slide them out of the clips. Made new gaskets for the bolts and spent some time gluing the attachment points back on where someone tore a couple of them..
Looks like fun! Pretty local to.
Nice rig.
Nice rig.
- Thread starter
- #53
Truck never had accent stripes. In many cases those are dealer installed. If the original owner ordered the truck custom or picked it up before the dealer gorillas got a hold of it. I know our local Honda dealer stripes every car that comes in. Booo.
- Thread starter
- #54
Back from the dead. Been working on my truck lately. I built a new down pipe to replace the cracked stock piece.
I built this to replace the cracked stock piece. I used 1.875in diameter 304 stainless tubing. I used a very nice merge collector and some stainless bellows to compensate for expansion and movement in the exhaust system. The stock system used no form of flex joint. I also used a nice ball flange to connect the rest of the system to the cat.
I tossed the stock cats (2) and used a modified S2000 three way cat. It is much more efficient than the stock cats and it is a larger diameter to allow for better flow. I expanded the tubing coming off the collector to 2.5in going into the cat and 3.0in coming out.
At some point in the future the stock exhaust is going away and I will build a nice stainless 3in system all the way out the back. Want to get a little better sound as well as some power. I machined all the flanges from 1/2in thick 304 stainless plate and designed all flanges to use the stock sealing arrangement. I also made some new oxygen sensor flanges out of stainless to replace the ones on the stock system. This system puts the O2 sensor in a well protected location behind the body mount, no worries about knocking this one off or showering it in road grime. This system should out last the the truck.
Now I have to get back to machining those new heavy duty tie rod and drag link.
I built this to replace the cracked stock piece. I used 1.875in diameter 304 stainless tubing. I used a very nice merge collector and some stainless bellows to compensate for expansion and movement in the exhaust system. The stock system used no form of flex joint. I also used a nice ball flange to connect the rest of the system to the cat.
I tossed the stock cats (2) and used a modified S2000 three way cat. It is much more efficient than the stock cats and it is a larger diameter to allow for better flow. I expanded the tubing coming off the collector to 2.5in going into the cat and 3.0in coming out.
At some point in the future the stock exhaust is going away and I will build a nice stainless 3in system all the way out the back. Want to get a little better sound as well as some power. I machined all the flanges from 1/2in thick 304 stainless plate and designed all flanges to use the stock sealing arrangement. I also made some new oxygen sensor flanges out of stainless to replace the ones on the stock system. This system puts the O2 sensor in a well protected location behind the body mount, no worries about knocking this one off or showering it in road grime. This system should out last the the truck.
Now I have to get back to machining those new heavy duty tie rod and drag link.
- Thread starter
- #55
few more pics.
- Thread starter
- #56
I'll get them all in before this is over. 
iptman
SILVER Star
That's some really nice work. Would love to hear how it sounds when its done.. Over the frame or under?
Nice work on that y-pipe. Looks like a good fit.
Excellent craftsmanship on the Y-pipe. Stainless should last you forever.
- Thread starter
- #60
I haven't decided yet. I was looking at my options yesterday, I don't really like the idea of putting the exhaust close to the floor of the truck, but do like having it up out of the way of damage. I was also thinking about doing some oval tubing and running under the frame a little further back than the stock location. I want to do a full 3in out the back. I am even debating an electronic cutout to have a dual mode exhaust system, quiet on the highway, louder around town.
