Builds Good Ole Rusty

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I'll let you pay Me 25k to grind some Concrete :)
 
Do you plan to do most of the work yourself? Or, do you plan to sub out most of the work? That can make a big difference in the final cost. I'm not a contractor, but I've spent most of my life around construction, mostly residential. Concrete work is not easy without proper equipment. Almost all homeowners do not have the tools, or experience, to properly do concrete work, and that even means me.

Got a picture of that wall of your garage? Is it the gable end? Is it a truss roof, or stick construction? Your answer to all of these questions will have a big impact on what can be done, and what the final cost will be.

A gable end wall, and maybe stick construction will be the easiest and less expensive to modify for a taller garage door, if you plan to have a contractor do the work.

Don
 
I'll let you pay Me 25k to grind some Concrete :)
I always said you were cheap :)

Until I was 30, I did construction - and that whole "break up the floor, cart it off, dig, then pour the new floor" was a hell of a lot of work for me then... great workout, though probably why I was 160 lbs then and 215 now.
 
I'll let you pay Me 25k to grind some Concrete :)
Let me think about that, ......no.:flipoff2:

Do you plan to do most of the work yourself? Or, do you plan to sub out most of the work? That can make a big difference in the final cost. I'm not a contractor, but I've spent most of my life around construction, mostly residential. Concrete work is not easy without proper equipment. Almost all homeowners do not have the tools, or experience, to properly do concrete work, and that even means me.

Got a picture of that wall of your garage? Is it the gable end? Is it a truss roof, or stick construction? Your answer to all of these questions will have a big impact on what can be done, and what the final cost will be.

A gable end wall, and maybe stick construction will be the easiest and less expensive to modify for a taller garage door, if you plan to have a contractor do the work.

Don
I'd do all the demolition and grading work, then sub out final compaction and pouring the concrete, I've done small slabs and could probably rent the tools I need but I'd rather farm that part out.
The front of the garage has a hipped roof that runs up to the second floor, it's all truss construction. I've pretty much ruled out raising the garage opening, the whole front roof would have to be removed and re-designed.


I always said you were cheap :)
Until I was 30, I did construction - and that whole "break up the floor, cart it off, dig, then pour the new floor" was a hell of a lot of work for me then... great workout, though probably why I was 160 lbs then and 215 now.
I'd rent a jack hammer, dumpster, and a bobcat and have my son do any heavy lifting. A couple of weekends of manual labor wouldn't hurt my waistline.
 
I'd rent a jack hammer, dumpster, and a bobcat and have my son do any heavy lifting. A couple of weekends of manual labor wouldn't hurt my waistline.

Ah yes, the reason to have children o_O personally I think my Case 1840 is cheaper and less whiny - but any child I'd have would be a bad child, so I'm certain your kids would be better than any offspring I would have and would work silently and with vigor.
 
Ah yes, the reason to have children o_O personally I think my Case 1840 is cheaper and less whiny - but any child I'd have would be a bad child, so I'm certain your kids would be better than any offspring I would have and would work silently and with vigor.
He's 30 and knows he owes us. He also works construction so he is more than just slave labor.
 
Clutch master cylinder, what a bitch, the vacuum booster blocks one bolt so you have to loosen it up. This is virtually impossible without a 12" extension and a swivel adaptor. I replaced two of the three bolts with socket head cap screws so I'll never have to revisit that particular slice of hell again.

Noticed one engine mount flopping around while I was replacing the slave cylinder. I think I need something more robust than the OEM rubber dealio's.
 
So are there some special magic motor mounts made out of unobtainium that I can spend way to much money on? Or should I just get the stock rubber ones?
 
magic? no, but Urethane comes in a variety of hardnesses - from stuff you drill with wood drill bits, to ones that a drill bit would simply get caught up in it.

honestly, what do you want? some vibration, don't care about the vibration/noise, cadillac level? Problem with the softer plastics is they aren't as robust - they will flake under load.

Spend some time here and you'll learn more than you ever wanted to know about plastic
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=868
they're also really helpful on the phone, even when they find out you want $30.00 worth of product - but I suppose that since I recommend them, they've sold substantially more.

edit*
with all of that said, there is a home and garden patio 'block' that's made out of recycled tires that is amazingly robust and cheap.
 
Or, just take a good motor mount, knock the stud off it, drill a hole all the way through it and run a bolt..

If you want to look cool, you can always chain the motor in place..
6281320036_large.jpg
 
that would make it easy to stack it to the right height

Mace, in the 60s, GM put cables from the motor to the frame to keep the motor mount from being torn apart by the motors of the day. I had a 67 Camaro that I put a 396 in from a 66 4 door Caprice... that one had the cable too (it wasn't just performance cars that got the cable).

with that said, why would they have put a chain on the passenger side?
 
It's a picture from the internets.. The square driveshaft, and ohh so sexy ground strap wire should at least hint at some less than stellar fab.

Besides, it's probably a 22re.. That motor put out more HP than anything GM built in the 60's..
 
I must have gotten a dog, because simultaneous to owning my 67 Camaro, I owned an 89 SR5 4x4 truck - and there wasn't a day the 22re was faster than the 396, heck there wasn't a day that it was faster than the 307 powered 67 Camaro I had (I did solve that ones issue by putting in a 454).

At least he put a ground strap there, I had a friend come by who was having trouble keeping his motor running under acceleration... want to guess why it wasn't running?
 
Thanks Mace, I can't foresee any problems with hard mounting the engine to the frame, it's not like there will be any torque or anything.
 
It'll still have the rubber bushing for some give. I've known a couple people that did it with no issues..

:)
 
I see.

Anyway just figured out it's not actually the mount that I need it's the "insulators" P/N 12371

motor-800x600-jpg.264355
 
Really? It's the rear mounts that are dying?? That's a new one on me. Is there something that is leaking on them?
 
get recycled rubber mat, hole saw out two biscuits and you're back in business. There's no reason to replace both side or even match materials on both sides. One thing about making the driver's side a harder material, don't put a huge amount of tension on the bolt... it will break, go ahead, ask me how I know this (lolling now).
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom