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Next issue, the rear diff inspection cover always leaks, always.
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I think I have a clue why
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Hammering those bottom two or three studs probably loosens them up
 
Bent?
 
This will solve your rear axle cover problems:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/LCDC.html

It for sure fits, it is beastly, and you can crush rocks with it.m I have one on my FJ60 with an air locker. The original version did not work with an airlocker.
 
The steering arm end is bent a Lil' bit, the springs are pretty much flat. The pitman arm is okay, it came out of a Pick N Pull Grand Wagoneer, it would probably break before it bent.
 
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This will solve your rear axle cover problems:

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/LCDC.html

It for sure fits, it is beastly, and you can crush rocks with it.m I have one on my FJ60 with an air locker. The original version did not work with an airlocker.
That is cool. But I think the cover leaks because the stud drag on rocks and loosen up. I'm thinking about welding a flange to the bottom of the diff maybe 3/8 bar stock curved to fit the diff and sticking out about 1/5 inch. Leaving enough room to get a socket on the nuts.
 
No, it leaks because the lip of the cover hangs on the rocks and gets peeled up a bit.

That cover eliminates the cork gasket and the sheet metal cover, both are common sources of leaks.
 
No, it leaks because the lip of the cover hangs on the rocks and gets peeled up a bit.

That cover eliminates the cork gasket and the sheet metal cover, both are common sources of leaks.
Gottcha.
 
Heads up if anybody wants to replace the insulators, aka transmission mounts. Order the bolts ant nuts to go with them, mine were useless and they are an oddball size 13mm diameter.

Also when I loosened up the motor mounts one side was already loose, just something you all might want to look at.
 
The toggle switch arrived mid way through Dusey Irshim when my front locker switch took a s***
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The ugly plastic toggle switch is the pump switch installed by the shop that installed the ARB lockers 20 years ago, the guy that did the install was very proud of himself for being able to make it light up with the dash lights. Within 2 or 3 years I had ripped out everything he did except that fugly toggle switch
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I have a new plan this is a mock up of the switch panel I'm working on
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Meanwhile
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Kind of what I'm thinking about

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The problem I ran in to when trying to orient the tire on the side of the swing out was the tire will hit the tub and the same was true for the cans.
Unfortunately for ME was I didn't realize that until AFTER I welded everything in place!!
 
The problem I ran in to when trying to orient the tire on the side of the swing out was the tire will hit the tub and the same was true for the cans.
Unfortunately for ME was I didn't realize that until AFTER I welded everything in place!!
We'll have to work on that won't we?

Instead of replacing the rear cross member I plan to stand the bumper out from the frame a bit and have a couple of plates that bolt in where the "bumperettes" used to be.
 
I like your bumper idea. Looks a lot like mine. Not that it's unique or anything. Mine stands off from the rear cross member 2 3/4" using the bumperette holes to attach the bumper. That clears everything just fine.

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:cheers:
 
@FF LC FREAK
I like the way you did the license plate holder.

Yeah nothing unique about my approach. Nothing much unique about my truck in general, just an old build re-hab. Back when I did the Toybox Orion combo it was kinda different, not unique but not common.
 
Mrs Rusty helped me chase down a major air leak to day, the whole ARB system is working much better now. I still want an OBA system based on a Sanden AC pump, but we can do that and still get some trail time in.

Slick Rock CA in one week.:bounce2::bounce::bounce2::bounce:
 
The bolts for the isolators are really screwed up
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According to the local Dealer part number 90102-13009 is no longer available, they can get me washers and cotter pins though:confused:.
Sent a message to @beno but no reply yet.
 

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