Builds Good Ole Rusty (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rusty_tlc
- Start date
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Nice work on the covers...
did you start with a stock, FJ40 cage?
did you start with a stock, FJ40 cage?
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #126
The stock cage is scary thin, I wouldn't really count on it much.
The cage in my truck is a Metaltech family cage.
http://www.metaltech4x4.com/p-9-fj40-land-cruiser-full-profile-roll-cage-kit.aspx
Cool, and they're relatively local to me (parents live in Portland).
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #131
My wife is awesome, no one else I'd rather have help me bleed brakes or a clutch. She has the whole "Press" "Release" thing down.
The bad news is the clutch is still a little wonkey. I inspected the master, slave and all the lines, no leaks. Fluid level was good. Went ahead and bleed the systems, the fluid was dark but not black. I replaced the master and slave a few years ago, all new fluid when I did that.
So, if I pump the clutch a couple of times everything is fine. When the truck has been sitting it is difficult or impossible to get it in gear until I pump the clutch. I'm tempted to shot gun and replace the master and slave. Any merit to that approach?
The bad news is the clutch is still a little wonkey. I inspected the master, slave and all the lines, no leaks. Fluid level was good. Went ahead and bleed the systems, the fluid was dark but not black. I replaced the master and slave a few years ago, all new fluid when I did that.
So, if I pump the clutch a couple of times everything is fine. When the truck has been sitting it is difficult or impossible to get it in gear until I pump the clutch. I'm tempted to shot gun and replace the master and slave. Any merit to that approach?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That's what you should do. The Master is likely bad, the slave will soon follow if you replace the master. The slave is cheap. It seems like an easy choice.
it's better to replace it all at once, including the hose... that said, Toyota master cylinders and slave cylinder rebuild kits are so cheap and so easy to accomplish - that would be my first choice.... replace the hose, rebuild the cylinders... the rebuild kit is like $10.00 for both (all it is is a couple o-rings, a cup and a new boot)
Just in case is an awesome idea. However, I've never had a problem starting the cruiser in gear and matching the engine RPM to shift. Clutch on = okay, clutch off = screwed.
That being said. I see no reason not to keep a rebuild kit on hand. It may work perfectly.
That being said. I see no reason not to keep a rebuild kit on hand. It may work perfectly.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #140
I learned how to shift on an old international pick up that had no syncro, the clutch was only useful at a complete stop. Rest his soul my Dad was a patient man and taught my brother and I both how to shift with little or no help from a clutch. He drank a lot......
