10 years ago, I'd have ridiculed anyone who epoxied a panel on... now, it's almost the first tool. My plan for corner guards on my rig is to glue them on it doesn't ever come apart.
Builds Good Ole Rusty
- Thread starter rusty_tlc
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If the metal failed immediately outside the weld, then doesn't that mean that the weld was too hot?
If the metal failed immediately outside the weld, then doesn't that mean that the weld was too hot?
that really depends, it can be a sign that the weld was cooled too quickly; on the other hand, it could also point to a good weld, and improper vibration damping (solid motor mounts cause this a lot). or poor metallurgy in the material. When China first started flooding the market in the 80s, they had huge trouble maintaining quality (which, if you watch videos from back then, it's easy to see why - what they did by computer and remote control in PA was done by hand with people in no protective gear in China)
or it could be too hot... with the rust in the cracks before it broke, there was obviously a lot of stress on that point. More often than not, cracking around the weld comes from improper cooling of cast iron. If you really want the strongest weld, weld the part, then heat the area leading to the weld to 1200 degrees and let it cool - that allows the molecules to realign back to their more relaxed state (which strikes me as funny because steel is created by jamming an ill-fitting carbon atom in the iron structure)...
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
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- #86
The welds stood up to multiple trips over the Rubicon and Fordyce so I kind of think it was just too much stress from the heavy ass hummer tires and rims. But I'm no welder so it could have been a lot of things.
If the metal failed immediately outside the weld, then doesn't that mean that the weld was too hot?
3M makes a multi-part adhesive that comes out of a tube... you best be sure you put whatever you wanted where you wanted because it is not coming apart, also, if you get it on your skin, it's not coming off there either.
which leads me to funny story
a former co-worker was using that stuff to put a bedside on his truck... and apparently his balls itched, a lot. his pants had permanent creases - to the point they ripped... and it bled through so (this, he told later) it stuck his pants to his underwear and his underwear to... well, his junk... I didn't ask what he did to solve the issue.
which leads me to funny story
a former co-worker was using that stuff to put a bedside on his truck... and apparently his balls itched, a lot. his pants had permanent creases - to the point they ripped... and it bled through so (this, he told later) it stuck his pants to his underwear and his underwear to... well, his junk... I didn't ask what he did to solve the issue.
I'd say weld a nut on there but.. 
You could pound a socket on there and break it off that way, Vicegrips if you can get a hold of the nuts, Grind some flat spots in the head etc..
Basically anything that can get a good grip.
You could pound a socket on there and break it off that way, Vicegrips if you can get a hold of the nuts, Grind some flat spots in the head etc..
Basically anything that can get a good grip.
I did this exact same thing some time ago when I mis-placed my key. Grab a socket that's one size too small to slip over the top of the locking lug nut and pound it on.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #92
I was hoping for a less aggressive option, I can bust out the Lincoln Tombstone and burn nuts on the keyed lugs.I'd say weld a nut on there but..
You could pound a socket on there and break it off that way, Vicegrips if you can get a hold of the nuts, Grind some flat spots in the head etc..
Basically anything that can get a good grip.
12 pt deep Socket (non impact) that barely fits over, if you can find one that taps on easy, use a airgun, tilt the socket sideways so the inside of the socket bites in.. and burp the airgun.
The only negative is sometimes the nut will end up stuck and need to use a punch to get it out,
Use craftsman as you can crack the socket, if i remember right 19mm worked on most stuff...
The only negative is sometimes the nut will end up stuck and need to use a punch to get it out,
Use craftsman as you can crack the socket, if i remember right 19mm worked on most stuff...
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #94
I might give that a try Ray, quicker than welding nuts on if it works.
I think I'll clean off my work bench first, that's usually where I find missing stuff.
The thing that pisses me off is I ALWAYS put the key in the little ammo can with "TIRE" stenciled on the outside three places. It's habitual due to similar incidents in the past.
I think I'll clean off my work bench first, that's usually where I find missing stuff.
The thing that pisses me off is I ALWAYS put the key in the little ammo can with "TIRE" stenciled on the outside three places. It's habitual due to similar incidents in the past.
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rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
- Thread starter
- #95
I am a firkin moron. Spent $17 plus tax for a tool to remove the wheel locks. Spent all morning screwing around and got one lock off, by welding a nut on it. Went to Big O they had the other three off in 10 minutes and charged $15.60. Returned the tool to Napa and got $18.50 back. Lost a whole morning over a few dollars.
