Going to look at a '99 LX 470 tomorrow, what should I be looking for? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 8, 2017
Threads
2
Messages
6
Location
Western Mass
The title says it, tomorrow I'm going to look at my first 100-series cruiser. This is my first adventure into this vehicle platform. I spoke with the current owner today and it seems like a great truck and has a solid lexus dealership maintenance history, low miles and an accident free car fax.

My question to the community is what should I be looking for...specific to this vehicle? This is definitely not my first used car hunting experience and I have done a good amount of research on these vehicles, I just want to make sure I don't overlook anything. Thanks for your help!
 
Everyone is going to say "rust" on the underbody and all the typical spots like the upper hatch, front of the rear quarter panels, etc. but finding a rust free truck is going to be very difficult in Mass. As long as it doesn't have holes in the frame and chassis I would not worry about it too much.
 
The truck spent it's life in New York/New Jersey and the owner said there wasn't any rust on the body. I will double check him tomorrow but i thought that was a good sign. I'm going to give a good once over underneath too, looking for any severe rust.
 
Test the AHC and check the fluid levels. Also make sure you have at least one master key. I'll let more experienced ones chime in from here.
 
I'll give you my list of "it works" or "it doesn't work" things to check. Mind you, none of this stuff is deal breaker stuff, but it's "nice to know what you have".

Check operation of all 4 power windows & sunroof
Check operation of power mirrors
Check that all 5 (tailgate too) power door locks are locking/unlocking
Check that the power tilt and telescope of the steering column works
Check the illumination and function of the instrument cluster
Check heat & AC functions on dash
Check heat & AC functions on overhead controller in 2nd row seat
Check operation of front & rear wiper and washer
Check driver and passenger power seat function
Check heated seat function on driver & passenger seat (typically if the switch illuminates it "should" be working, but not true on mine)
Check left rear cargo area to make sure jack is there.
Inspect wheels for wheel locks, if they are present, make sure you get the "key" from current owner if you purchase
Ask current owner if spare has ever been down

If I buy a vehicle, I always ask the current owner if there's anything he took off of or out of the vehicle that he kept. I've gotten factory carpet mats, extra keys, roof rack attachments, and hitch receiver adapter/ball kits by asking that.

I personally do a much more extensive lookover than this, but I don't know you're mechanical aptitude, so the above either works or it doesn't.

Again, none of this stuff is deal breaker, but it's nice to know where you're starting and the obvious things you need to fix.

Good luck and happy shopping!
 
After looking at a few recently besides rust use your but test to check for a nice ride. its a lexus and should ride like a cloud. but its also 18 years old so if its on the original globes its going to feel bumpy and not cheap to overhaul.
 
The truck spent it's life in New York/New Jersey and the owner said there wasn't any rust on the body. I will double check him tomorrow but i thought that was a good sign. I'm going to give a good once over underneath too, looking for any severe rust.

Welcome to MUD! Toyota did a very good job of galvanizing the 100 series bodies, but the undercarriage leaves a lot to be desired. Many of the very nice LC's I looked at were spotless on the body, but the undercarriage was rusty everywhere. I learned to take a look at the upper clam shell handle area first for rust - it it was there, the underside would be bad so I would walk away. Some of these cruisers were asking $30K and the salesman always looked shocked when I pointed out the rust on the upper clam handle and underneath. Rust is a fact of life where we live though so as long as it's only surface rust and the rest of the vehicle checks out, go for it.
 
After looking at a few recently besides rust use your but test to check for a nice ride. its a lexus and should ride like a cloud. but its also 18 years old so if its on the original globes its going to feel bumpy and not cheap to overhaul.

Agreed. My LX rode pretty decent when I bought it, but within 5,000 miles it was almost unbearable. I lived with it for another 7,000 miles after that, but I never had passengers. I went to the local Lexus dealer and they didn't want to even work on the system because it was so old, so I opted to eliminate it. I guess business is good when you turn away big repairs.

My point is, not to scare you, but if the AHC is even a bit sketchy, be prepared to spend another $2,000 to pay someone to disable and replace the AHC. That is not to completely remove it, just enough to work around it. If you can do the labor yourself, you can half that cost.
 
So far every lx ive found in the ny/nj/philly is a buy here pay here lot bought from a dealer auction. after 15 years the only reasons they are being traded in is to avoid an ahc bill, a timing belt bill, or rust. its not enough to scare me away but definately look with the understanding that there is likely 1500 on top of the price for one of those things and hopefully not both
 
Its like the fast, good, or cheap saying except ahc, timing belt, or rust. at least for the 10-20 ive called about. Looking for land cruisers at least limits one of those variables but prices seem to reflect that.
 
One item I can add is see if the owner will allow for the vehicle to be doused with water. Check for leaks. Any funky electrical items that may be caused by water seeping in.

Good luck.
 
Also dont forget to check the valve cover gaskets and cv axles for leaks
 
Take one of those business card fridge (weak) magnets with you and look for Bondo on the quarters and doors. Carfax will only track accident claims submitted to insurance.
 
Check the ball joints (upper and lower) as well as steering rack boots. Check shocks for any visable leaking.

I neglected to do the above when looking and it is very pricey/difficult to fix when all need replacing.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom