Going back to H42 - 78/40 Yertle's no Turtle

[65swb45]

Those are the holes, thanks for clarifying. Is the third one on the side is for the clutch slave or something and meant to be the same way?

I don't need a shiny bellhousing, just want to make sure this is normal and will perform as advertised. Should I be concerned?

TIA all!

The holes in the passenger SIDE of the bellhousing, encroaching on the pocket for the starter, are the slave cylinder bracket holes. They are different to what I am used to seeing, so I'm not certain what they had in mind, other than to let you know that they were providing anchor points for SOMETHING. Could be for a direct mount of the slave, or for a bracket for the slave. Perhaps there is something in their instruction sheet about it.

In my experience, the bellhousing offerings from Downey and AA always left something to be desired as far as optimizing slave cylinder location. And when you read so many threads on the forums about people having issues with adjusting their clutches, there is reason to be concerned. After a 'form follows function' talk with @Downey 25 years ago or so, I just decided that, rather than live with the compromise, I would mount a piece of angle iron to those holes and then mount the slave to the angle iron on the horizontal plane.

Once the slave is bled, it doesn't care if it's hung upside down. Freed from the vertical plane of the bellhousing, I could then move the slave at my discretion to both a point AND AN ANGLE that optimized its contact with the clutch fork. And that angle was never parallel to the powertrain, but always perpendicular to the fork. That is what I consider optimum.

 

[Living in the Past]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the location of the shift cane for the four speed. Not sure if the covers from the 8/80+ four speed work on the earlier one but a 60 series cover locates the shift cane further back which a good thing since the V8 moves the transmission forward. Spendy but Mark's in Australia makes a V8 adapter the keeps the transmission in the stock location. If the 60 series fits the earlier four speed that would be the easiest way to go to keep the shift cane out of the heater.

 

[65swb45]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the location of the shift cane for the four speed. Not sure if the covers from the 8/80+ four speed work on the earlier one but a 60 series cover locates the shift cane further back which a good thing since the V8 moves the transmission forward. Spendy but Mark's in Australia makes a V8 adapter the keeps the transmission in the stock location. If the 60 series fits the earlier four speed that would be the easiest way to go to keep the shift cane out of the heater.

It was mentioned John. The rebuilt H42 has the 60 cover on it.

 

[Living in the Past]

It was mentioned John. The rebuilt H42 has the 60 cover on it.

Got it,missed it in the first post. So the 60 cover do fit the pre 8/80 transmission? I've seen the question asked but never seen any post they had done this conversion on the earlier transmission. I do not have any V8s in a Toyota unless Toyota put in it at the factory. Last 60 series was made thirty years ago and only been the last few years I've read people using the 60 series on V8 conversion.

 

[1phrogguy]

I have nearly all the parts gathered, minus a clutch master and slave. I'll try to remember to take a pic with all the parts lined up and labeled.

Some items (Pic) I don't feel are up to the standard I would use on my cruiser were included in my "kit". Those items will be replaced with new hardware. Maybe I'm wasting money and this stuff should be used but...I'm thinking no.

Start date pushed to Dec, still need to pick up the transmission this coming week and gather the remaining items.

 

[1phrogguy]

Here's the rebuilt transmission that I also received from @65swb45 . Not sure this looks right, aside from the gash in case itself, the inside looks like there are some scoring marks that don't belong. There's something looking like it's flaking or possibly a crack in the last pic.

Here's where I need some expert eyes, I think this looks gooned up.

last one

This is a freshly rebuilt unit from what I'm told. Output shaft is new.

What should I do here?

TIA

 

[1phrogguy]

ttt

 

[1phrogguy]

Anyone seen this type of wear before?

 

[1phrogguy]

Transmission looks good inside. Apparently the 60 series top cover wasn't sealed, that'll make cleaning it up easier.

Pulling the engine and drivetrain on Monday. Engine builder said around 30 days to rebuild the 305 depending on his workload. Nothing fancy with the build, installing an RV cam, balance and blueprint.

 

[1phrogguy]

Note: the transmission to bell housing bolts are provided by AA. The AA bolts are a different size and thread from OEM transmission to bell housing bolts. I was trying to line things up and thought I needed to get this housing either replaced or drilled out and re-tapped. Based on looks alone, I wasn't blown away from the prospect of this having to happen. Bolts were in the bag they sent along with this.

Is there a purpose for the rough edge?

 

[65swb45]

Note: the transmission to bell housing bolts are provided by AA. The AA bolts are a different size and thread from OEM transmission to bell housing bolts. I was trying to line things up and thought I needed to get this housing either replaced or drilled out and re-tapped. Based on looks alone, I wasn't blown away from the prospect of this having to happen. Bolts were in the bag they sent along with this.

Is there a purpose for the rough edge?
View attachment 1586856

View attachment 1586857

Jon

Was that part bagged or tagged? It looks like it could be a pilot bearing , which is what we were just talking about.

 

[1phrogguy]

AA sent this with the bag of bolts for the bell housing in a two part bag -one bag sealed twice. it's a pilot bearing alright, just wondering why it looks like its been on a lathe.

 

[65swb45]

AA sent this with the bag of bolts for the bell housing in a two part bag -one bag sealed twice. it's a pilot bearing alright, just wondering why it looks like its been on a lathe.

If I remember, I will take a pic of what can happen with the standard bronze bushing when it’s not installed properly.

For that matter, take the bearing and make sure it slips easily onto the input shaft of the transmission. I find about half the time I have to massage the tip of the shaft with a sharpening stone to get the bearing to slide properly.

 

[GA Architect]

Here's the rebuilt transmission that I also received..............

Just for reference, are those photos "before" or "after" the rebuild?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

That top cover doesn't look rebuilt. Most things Mark rebuilds are pretty much spit shined. That one has OEM dirt. If it wasn't replaced, make certain you replace the shifter seat. If it gets weak, cracked or spongy the transmission shifts poorly if at all, and it's a cheap part that should be replaced every 5 years or so.

It does look pretty normal in there though.

The inside of the tranny looks great. You can shift it through the gears with your hands if you want to be sure it's all sliding well. Just be sure to leave it in neutral when you're done.

I really like the idea of an FJ60 case that will allow you to use the superior FJ60 cross member. You'll want to use the early style FJ60 rear motor mount, since it looks like the AA adapter mounts everything vertically. Late FJ60 tipped the transmission 9 degrees or so and used a slightly different mount and cross member.

And just so I understand, you have an FJ60 transmission with a 16 spline output?

 

[1phrogguy]

@65swb45 Test fit pretty good I think, only needed a little pressure to put on.

@GA Architect those were after rebuild. Top plate makes it look messy but the rest is clean.

@Cruiserdrew good info, thank you. This is a FJ40 transmission with a 60 top plate that moves the shifter back a few inches. That gives clearance from the heater and one should be able to use the OEM shifter without some crazy bend in it. I considered the H41, I have a different 40, 2F with 60 series running gear and I like the way it runs. I am trying to keep this as original as possible even with the Chevy conversion. Nothing not easily removable or undoable I guess is what I'm trying for.

 

[1phrogguy]

I still would like to know what that odd rough surface is on that bearing.

 

[65swb45]

I still would like to know what that odd rough surface is on that bearing.

If you saw the bronze bushing, it would be clearer. It is one continuous diameter for its length. That is fine for a GM standard transmission. The Toyota transmission does not draw as close to the engine as the GM, so a 'stepped' design that comes out a bit from the back of the crank is preferable. Back in the '90's when I was handling quite a few V-8 clutch and transmission jobs [stronger back] I paid a machine shop to make me stepped bronzed bushings. They had lathe marks too. I like to think the lathe marks help the unit have a better hold on the crankshaft. But I won't speak as to the finish of AAs product. That would just be a guess.

 

[1phrogguy]

Engine is out and at the builders. Going to lay out all of the parts next week and then set them aside until the engine is finished.

Anyone know if the soft hydraulic line from the clutch slave to the hard line on firewall is still available? Also looking for the aftermarket transmission to transfer oil return line (fill plug to fill plug hose).

While this is open, I'm replacing all of the rubber lines, fuel, heater/cooling. Anything else I should be addressing while I have easy access?

Top plate cleaned up. I really wanted to see the condition of the ear tabs and everything checks out.

 

[1phrogguy]

Dropped off the clutch assembly and flywheel to the engine builder today. While I was in the shop, it was pointed out that I have a quadrajet intake and a riser that is not the best for this application. Larry, my builder, said an aluminum intake and different riser is the way to go and should result in smoother operation throughout the power band. I'll be using the existing Edlebrock carb.