Planning a Vortec 350/4L60E conversion for my 82 FJ60 & see only stock Toyota transfer cases used - might it not be simpler to use the GM & modify the U-joint yokes on drive shafts?
GM Xfer Case
- Thread starter Tinker
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tucker74
Moderator
You could - but the Toyota is just better.
Tucker
Tucker
GM transfer cases are center drop rears. You would need a centered diff in the rear to use them. My suggestion is a 203 doubler as an adapter from your 4L60 to the toyota x-fer
Toyota transfer cases are light, but strength just isn't there versus the GM phat ones, especially the 205 case.
It's the rear output that kills ya...the D18 and NP200 are offset, but 99% of GM cases are centered rear, so you'd have to switch rear axles to.
Gumby has a good idea with the doubler....and you've got the space with the 60-wheelbase.
It's the rear output that kills ya...the D18 and NP200 are offset, but 99% of GM cases are centered rear, so you'd have to switch rear axles to.
Gumby has a good idea with the doubler....and you've got the space with the 60-wheelbase.
TJDIV
UP of MI.
I had to swap front and rear axles, and went with a 208. The case is HUGE and hangs down a bit more than I would prefer, but works great. Rock solid with 2 Hi, N, 4Hi and 4Lo which I like.
pbgbottle
Forum Lifer
also another good reason is the output is also lower (toyota)giving better driveline angles with huge lift's . some adapters are also clockable allowing you to rotate the transfer down if you like for better driveline angles . again
The 203 doubler idea definately rocks. One of my wheelin buddies uses one and it really climbs. I've installed a few doublers in customer rigs too and everyone who tries it raves about the torque increase at the rear wheels. I'm planning to do one myself on my '69.
I considered using a recent GM transfer case. True that you have to swap the rear axle to get it to work, but you also have to modify/swap the front axle because the output to the front is on the drivers side. I thought about the details for a little while, but for my skill level the modifications to the front axle would be too much of a pain in the a$$.
Good info, didn't know. Learn something every day.
So to get it to work with the 4L60E (6 bolt hex pattern for transfer case), you just use an adapter to create a 4 bolt pattern and maybe swap output shafts? Interesting...
So to get it to work with the 4L60E (6 bolt hex pattern for transfer case), you just use an adapter to create a 4 bolt pattern and maybe swap output shafts? Interesting...
A 4L60 is just a 700R4. Use a TH350 stock adapter and a short output shaft to mount up a 205 or a 203/205 combo. You can build a centered rear diff by using shafts from a Toy mini.
...6 bolt circular pattern at t-case is most commonly a 208 or 241 or a post '85 205...
Hi^C... I've got a 4L60E, just like Tinker mentioned. 6 bolt hex pattern from trans to transfer case. I understood that the older 700R4 and the TH 350 have a 4 bolt square pattern from the trans to transfer case. I'm guessing the that the NP205 then has a 4 bolt trans to transfer case mount? So to get to to work...
Hammerhead, have you seen this? I didn't know there was a possibility of this, but from what I read it's do-able. Looks like I may have another option for my project...
Thanks for the info.
Hammerhead, have you seen this? I didn't know there was a possibility of this, but from what I read it's do-able. Looks like I may have another option for my project...
Thanks for the info.
I wouldn't worry to much on the rear end off-set issue. Go ahead and use the GM units all the way back & sell your Toyota stuff to re-coup some of the $$$. The driveline is long enough, w/ the u-joints in phase, I doubt you'll get any vibration. Heck, if you do, get a Chevy 6-lug 12 bolt rear...they're cheep & ring sets are plentiful, but I don't think you'll need it.
Are you doing a SOA? (I'd flip the front hangers) & run some real treads? I'm planning on doing all of the above on my wifes 60 (my 40, which had the mods is off in the AZ desert somewhere)...I'm planning on getting a complete truck & swap in the drivetrain along w/ the cross members...and lowering it a bit for drive line angles & center of gravity...38's will give plenty of clearence (but my wife isn't to keen on using a step-stool to get it...)
Monto man
Are you doing a SOA? (I'd flip the front hangers) & run some real treads? I'm planning on doing all of the above on my wifes 60 (my 40, which had the mods is off in the AZ desert somewhere)...I'm planning on getting a complete truck & swap in the drivetrain along w/ the cross members...and lowering it a bit for drive line angles & center of gravity...38's will give plenty of clearence (but my wife isn't to keen on using a step-stool to get it...)
Monto man
Been running a GM drive train since 88 in my 60. Used a Scout II Dana 44 rear end (perfect fit)change the bolt pattern to 6 lug and have never look back.
Phil
Phil
For a centered rear diff you can cross-breed an FJ40 rear end with a toy mini and make a centered cruiser rear. You also get the auto adjust rear brakes and parking brake.
Could use 2 CV's.
Something I've been thinking about is using a the H42/H55F, then NP203, and finally a Dana 300 or maybe the NP205. AA make an adapter for a Dana 300/Atlas to NP203. Then use the H42/H55F to NP203 from Mudrak or another vendor. Anther option, H42/Toybox/OTT to Dana 300. The late model NP205 might work to with the OTT adapter. I emailed them about it, but no response yet.
I think it would be cheaper to just go with 2 CV/double cardan joints. I've seen a whole shaft with 2 CV's run abount $700-800 (probably find it cheaper). Defiantly cheaper than getting a Dana 44, narrowing it, getting all the damn adapters, etc.
Something I've been thinking about is using a the H42/H55F, then NP203, and finally a Dana 300 or maybe the NP205. AA make an adapter for a Dana 300/Atlas to NP203. Then use the H42/H55F to NP203 from Mudrak or another vendor. Anther option, H42/Toybox/OTT to Dana 300. The late model NP205 might work to with the OTT adapter. I emailed them about it, but no response yet.
I think it would be cheaper to just go with 2 CV/double cardan joints. I've seen a whole shaft with 2 CV's run abount $700-800 (probably find it cheaper). Defiantly cheaper than getting a Dana 44, narrowing it, getting all the damn adapters, etc.
