I would suggest that you go to www.madelectrical.com then click on "electrical tech" in the header then scroll down to "One wire vs. three wire alternators" and read. Lots of good info all through this web site, although it won't answer questions about brackets. If when on the "electrical tech" page you scroll down past "one wire vs. three wire" to "10SI & 12SI alternators" you will find suggestions on years and vehicles for different alternators. Somebody else might be more help with brackets as I have no experience YET. This is on my "future" list.
Madelectrical has some useful information, but it also has a lot of sales hype about how important remote voltage sensing is and how big an issue voltage drop is. While his examples are mathematically correct, they are chosen to favor what he is trying to sell and are not likely to be encountered in a cruiser under normal operation. Even if the voltage did drop by 2-3 V, all the systems are designed to operate normally within this range. If it was important, the auto engineers would have designed it the way he is selling.
Since you'll probably want to run a thicker output wire from the new alternator to the battery anyway because of the increased output, it's takes even less time to run a second voltage sensing wire. It'll save you a few bucks just having to buy a std alternator as opposed to a 1 wire unit.