davidp14
SILVER Star
the wood surface is porous and absorbed quite a bit. There's an awful lot of perseverating about glue and rubber going on here, I hope you guys aren't losing sleep..
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Just by the by, whenever you're thinking to introduce something new to the interior (or to cut/abrade/shape/coat/seal it etc.), always search the name of the substance and the actual chemicals plus MSDS (material safety data sheet). Look for hazards from dust, offgassing, thermal decomposition (a big one for hot vehicles), temperature-related hazards, melting and freezing points, what fumes are created when burning (fancy a dose of hydrogen cyanide, anyone?) and so on. Urethane aka ethyl carbamate, for example (but not cured polyurethane) is wildly toxic. (Which, of course, is why it's used in many food wrappers and those cute little Halloween teeth for kids.) Just sayin'...
In that case just use Gorilla GlueJust by the by, whenever you're thinking to introduce something new to the interior (or to cut/abrade/shape/coat/seal it etc.), always search the name of the substance and the actual chemicals plus MSDS (material safety data sheet). Look for hazards from dust, offgassing, thermal decomposition (a big one for hot vehicles), temperature-related hazards, melting and freezing points, what fumes are created when burning (fancy a dose of hydrogen cyanide, anyone?) and so on. Urethane aka ethyl carbamate, for example (but not cured polyurethane) is wildly toxic. (Which, of course, is why it's used in many food wrappers and those cute little Halloween teeth for kids.) Just sayin'...
Here’s another blanket statement: Bears are dangerous… Now, is every one you come across likely to kill you? Probably not. Doesn’t mean it can't--or that you should walk up and pet them all.If you're still in a car while urethane glue is burning, I'd suggest you've got bigger problems to worry about.
I think it's a blanket statement to say urethane is wildly toxic.
There's are many forms that are food safe, and used for things like water storage vessels
"Perseverating" in the word of the day around here now. Excellent.the wood surface is porous and absorbed quite a bit. There's an awful lot of perseverating about glue and rubber going on here, I hope you guys aren't losing sleep..
Spray outside, then place? Test first. This issue must have been resolved by others in the past. Might be messy; something that eats into rubber and box top. Someone suggested button fasteners; could work, but might introduce catch/rip points. Someone also suggested angle edges, which--absent some kind of fasteners, will allow slippage/tearing. Combo of edging and tracks would take care of this; use tracks for securing cargo when need be; they'll also hold the rubber down at closer intervals. Same if you can find or make rubber-coated steel or aluminum flat bars and screw or bolt those down as close together as you like. Problem solved.Thanks guys. I had some 3M spray and tried a little of that first, but after just doing a small corner it seemed the amount of spray I was going to need was large, and there was a large amount of fine sticky mist floating around in the back of my truck. That was the reason for the question. I've ordered some DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim as recommended and it will be here next week.
I'll report back on my "Perseverating" experience then![]()
Shortcut might be to find a good rubber that already has some kind of permanent backing on it--something you CAN adhere without too much trouble. Is there such a thing?
I see link on my phone but not desktop, not sure why...My buddy is overhauling his fishing boat and he just put this product down on the boat deck. It is kind of a rubbery foam material.
Amazon product ASIN B097D13LV2
That's what the high-end cargo system shops are doing...I just had my drawer (Landshark single Reef2) sprayed professionally with bed liner. Very pleased.