Glass headlight installation on '05 LX challenge (1 Viewer)

[MarkTR]

Ah, vanity.

Since I am still spending like a drunken sailor buying major replacement parts for my ’05 “needs nothing” 190K LX, I went in deep and bought a set of used glass lens headlights.

My plastic ones are still pretty clear but they are getting many micro-cracks around the perimeter on all four of them.


Got them today— the good news is the glass and reflectors are almost perfect. The bad news is that even though they were saran wrapped and then packed in a huge box filled with peanuts, three of the tabs are broken off- one bottom on the left one, and one top and one bottom (poor attempt to be glued on but now is loose) one on the right.


I found the left lights broken tab trapped in the saran wrap. I cannot find the top broken one for the right housing.


I now have three choices.
I can throw up my hands and return them.
I can attempt to repair the tabs using something like JB weld and sheet steel bits for reinforcements.
I can pull off the glass lens and plastic lens and install the glass lens onto my ’05 housings.

I know the glass ones can be pulled of because I have done this on old Audis and following the instructions on this old thread headlight glass change out - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/headlight-glass-change-out.1232503/#post-13490428. Removing the plastic ones is a mystery that could be fatal.

The first will cost me shipping.
The second is unknown territory with no guarantee of a functionaly successful outcome.
The third is possible but will require a lot of labor and luck-- with the possibility of screwing up my functional good ’05 headlights.

Throw in the fact that just removing the ’05 headlights could lead to damage to the delicate old painted plastic trim pieces per this thread, LX 470 headlamp removal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx-470-headlamp-removal.1008922/ ------and I am strongly hedging toward option number one.

But my love of projects with a challenge- which does not require crawling under my truck and staying on my back for hours- has me wanting to take on option number two.

What say the members of this august forum? Advice, opinions, been there-done that insight are all welcome

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I'd return them. Why do you have to pay return shipping when the damage is clearly due to sh!tty packing job? Saran wrap and packing peanuts is NOT how you pack a fragile item for shipping. They should have been packed with expanding foam that would conform to the shape of the lights.

In any case, these headlights can become a source of constant headache if you try to glue the tabs on.
Swapping out the glass with your old ones can be done but, like you said, no guarantees your existing ones won't break.
You can also talk to @Luke111 , he has helped a lot of us with headlight questions and sells brand new glass headlight assemblies with a projectors upgraded.

 

[js47]

If all the tabs broke off I would suspect that they were already broken before shipping. They have never felt particularly fragile to me. I would not attempt to repair the broken tabs — that never works, and it is critical for them to be solid for consistent aim.

The fragile trim you pointed out would have to be removed no matter which option you take so I would not factor that into your decision, unless you want to bail on the project entirely and keep your current headlights.

Further, I would posit that no 100 with stock halogens “needs nothing.” You should upgrade your projectors with Luke’s bracket ASAP. It will change your life. If you do go that route then you have to bake headlights anyway so you might as well just bake both sets and swap the glass at the same time. I would definitely not bake headlights without retrofitting HID projectors — would be a massive waste of effort. Not even sure the effort of pulling the headlights off the car (dealing with the aforementioned fragile trim) would be worth it without retrofitting HIDs — that is a lot of risk to take for a purely cosmetic upgrade.

All that said, I agree with Classy that you should return them and that the seller should be on the hook for shipping. Reasoning:

1. If they had sent a set of glass headlights with tabs intact, you would not have to mess with your current lights beyond removing them from the truck.
2. You could then resell your current plastic-lens lights to someone who is less picky to partially offset your costs. Would not be able to resell a set with broken tabs.
3. The seller clearly messed up, either intentionally by misrepresenting the item or just through sheer negligence with an inferior packing job. It should be on them to make it right.

 

[saucebox]

If all the tabs broke off I would suspect that they were already broken before shipping. They have never felt particularly fragile to me. I would not attempt to repair the broken tabs — that never works, and it is critical for them to be solid for consistent aim.

The fragile trim you pointed out would have to be removed no matter which option you take so I would not factor that into your decision, unless you want to bail on the project entirely and keep your current headlights.

Further, I would posit that no 100 with stock halogens “needs nothing.” You should upgrade your projectors with Luke’s bracket ASAP. It will change your life. If you do go that route then you have to bake headlights anyway so you might as well just bake both sets and swap the glass at the same time. I would definitely not bake headlights without retrofitting HID projectors — would be a massive waste of effort. Not even sure the effort of pulling the headlights off the car (dealing with the aforementioned fragile trim) would be worth it without retrofitting HIDs — that is a lot of risk to take for a purely cosmetic upgrade.

All that said, I agree with Classy that you should return them and that the seller should be on the hook for shipping. Reasoning:

1. If they had sent a set of glass headlights with tabs intact, you would not have to mess with your current lights beyond removing them from the truck.
2. You could then resell your current plastic-lens lights to someone who is less picky to partially offset your costs. Would not be able to resell a set with broken tabs.
3. The seller clearly messed up, either intentionally by misrepresenting the item or just through sheer negligence with an inferior packing job. It should be on them to make it right.

Agreed with all of the above.

Should you option 2 it anyway, the lenses bake off pretty easy. And since you'll have them open, definitely get Luke's brackets. LX470 HID RETROFIT PROJECTOR BRACKET - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx470-hid-retrofit-projector-bracket.979351/

 

[medtro]

Can you file a claim with carrier?

 

[MarkTR]

If all the tabs broke off I would suspect that they were already broken before shipping. They have never felt particularly fragile to me. I would not attempt to repair the broken tabs — that never works, and it is critical for them to be solid for consistent aim.

The fragile trim you pointed out would have to be removed no matter which option you take so I would not factor that into your decision, unless you want to bail on the project entirely and keep your current headlights.

Further, I would posit that no 100 with stock halogens “needs nothing.” You should upgrade your projectors with Luke’s bracket ASAP. It will change your life. If you do go that route then you have to bake headlights anyway so you might as well just bake both sets and swap the glass at the same time. I would definitely not bake headlights without retrofitting HID projectors — would be a massive waste of effort. Not even sure the effort of pulling the headlights off the car (dealing with the aforementioned fragile trim) would be worth it without retrofitting HIDs — that is a lot of risk to take for a purely cosmetic upgrade.

All that said, I agree with Classy that you should return them and that the seller should be on the hook for shipping. Reasoning:

1. If they had sent a set of glass headlights with tabs intact, you would not have to mess with your current lights beyond removing them from the truck.
2. You could then resell your current plastic-lens lights to someone who is less picky to partially offset your costs. Would not be able to resell a set with broken tabs.
3. The seller clearly messed up, either intentionally by misrepresenting the item or just through sheer negligence with an inferior packing job. It should be on them to make it right.

Yeah-- "needs nothing" has led to a new steering rack, CV axles, spare ignition lock assembly just to have the inner cam rod that can break, new rotors---and on and on. Now HID projector brackets.

Good point about the HID projector modification. I did not consider that since I have not driven this truck at night yet and have no idea how good the light pattern is. Since I am retired I no longer drive to work or home in the dark every day so I mainly drive during the day.

At the time I bought the glass headlights I did not know about the fragile trim pieces that I had to remove- figured it was a simple no brainer with no risk. I just figured if I had to replace my cracking up plastic lens headlamps I may as well go with the glass versions. Thought it would be an easy change-out. When I searched for threads on LX headlight removal I only found Luke's-- and no other threads talking about how forum members broke trim pieces when upgrading their headlights. Assumed that it was a rare occurrence. I guess I am very wrong in "assuming" anything about these cruisers.

I sent the seller photos and he is sorry about the damage. The eBay photos had all of the tabs so I was more worried about the condition of the glass and the reflectors.

He did not come out and say he would accept a return but from the eBay ad, he says that the buyer pays for return shipping -so if I pay for the return shipping I assume that he has to give me my refund. I probably will be out about $50 from past shipping experience.

He said if I wish to keep them he would refund me $200 of the $600 I paid him. So it would be $400 just for the glass lens- they are almost like new with no pits or surface abrasion- but not sure that even in this condition they are worth $200 each.

He wanted photos so he could make a shipping claim--he paid for the shipping. He makes out no matter what I decide to do with the headlights. He is a salvage parts dealer and he probably made his nut after selling all of the big parts. This is extra gravy for him.

From the bits of plastic I found, it looks like two of the tabs took a good hit during shipping- and one tab in the photos I posted looks like an attempted repair.

I agree- if the tabs are not solid then these heavy glass units will just break the repaired tabs again then shift around. No way could I just bond them on the breakage interfaces- they would require additional beefing up with formed stainless sheet metal to span the breaks along with small screws and epoxy to solid plastic.

The top tab would be the big challenge because it fits so close to the top front sheet metal brace it bolts down to.

I have not seen one thread about how hard it is to remove the plastic lens. I assume that once I put them in the oven I am committed to removing them because I am not sure how stable the type of plastic used for the lens will distort or increase the amount of micro-cracking or crazing already on them when heated.

Still leaning toward returning and taking the shipping hit.

Next question- how many LX members have removed their lens-installed Luke's kit-and successfully replaced their lens. I assume Luke has done a few - take some thought in spending $1850.

 

[medtro]

May be easier to file a claim with eBay for full refund?

 

[hoser]

Is this your seller? Left & Right Front Head lamp Headlights Assembly Set For LEXUS LX470 1998-2007 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/153010873169

I ask because sometimes salvage dealers will post pictures of one part (their best example) and then sell multiples of the same part.... as in, they'll sell the same part several times. His auction said he has 6 of these. Now how many pictures of different headlamps does he have?

The ones in the worst condition ship first! I don't know if this is your experience but unique identifiers, other than the broken tabs would tell the story.

 

[MarkTR]

Is this your seller? Left & Right Front Head lamp Headlights Assembly Set For LEXUS LX470 1998-2007 | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/153010873169

I ask because sometimes salvage dealers will post pictures of one part (their best example) and then sell multiples of the same part.... as in, they'll sell the same part several times. His auction said he has 6 of these. Now how many pictures of different headlamps does he have?

The ones in the worst condition ship first! I don't know if this is your experience but unique identifiers, other than the broken tabs would tell the story.

That is interesting- I take your point. Unless marked in the photos with a paint pen as some salvage dealers do, you have no way of knowing if you are buying the part that is in the photo.

No- that is not the seller-- mine advertised his lamps for '99-'02 and with glass lens and in his text saying the will fit later LS's. The seller you pointed out is selling plastic lens saying that they fit all years. I found that the later lamps seel for a bit less than the plastic lens lamps

 

[MarkTR]

May be easier to file a claim with eBay for full refund?

I think because the seller stated that the buyer pays for the shipping of any returns, eBay I would still refund only the selling price minus my shipping cost. I believe that I will get a full refund minus shipping with the seller even though we have not gone down the road yet.

If I had known beforehand that one of the bottom tabs had been poorly glued back on, I would not have bought these. He would have had to of taken a pretty good close-up shot like the one I posted for anyone to know. Perhaps he did not know--- only the disassembly guy or the parts picker often sees these things.

 

[js47]

I think because the seller stated that the buyer pays for the shipping of any returns, eBay I would still refund only the selling price minus my shipping cost. I believe that I will get a full refund minus shipping with the seller even though we have not gone down the road yet.

If I had known beforehand that one of the bottom tabs had been poorly glued back on, I would not have bought these. He would have had to of taken a pretty good close-up shot like the one I posted for anyone to know. Perhaps he did not know--- only the disassembly guy or the parts picker often sees these things.

If the item arrived not as described in the listing, then eBay will give all your money back and the seller will have to pay for return shipping if he wants them back. Otherwise you would get to keep the lights and the money. I would try to work it out with the seller before bringing eBay into it, but if he offers you anything less than a 100% refund where he pays for the return shipping then you should just open an eBay case.

 

[saucebox]

To be clear, I'd also send them back. Item not as represented, not your fault it was punted across the country.

I have not seen one thread about how hard it is to remove the plastic lens. I assume that once I put them in the oven I am committed to removing them because I am not sure how stable the type of plastic used for the lens will distort or increase the amount of micro-cracking or crazing already on them when heated.

Easy-peasy. ~285º for 20 minutes or so IIRC should soften the glue for the lens. Set both units on a piece of lumber so the metal rack can do no harm. Temps that low won't harm the plastic unless you go comatose for a couple weeks and leave them in.

Then they just pop off, and you use a small ball of the new glue to roll around the edges and clean them up. Be careful around the reflectors—they'll take a fingerprint super easy, and it sure looks dumb when you seal that big thumbprint back up. Allegedly.

Add glue back, press the new lens on, and heat in the oven for 4-5 minutes. Take it out, press the lens in—really squeeze that glue—and then put it back in the oven for 5 minutes. When you get them out, quickly put the metal clips back.

All in all, it's about an hour to swap lenses, not counting the time it takes you to remove from the truck or reinstall them.

About $25 for enough glue to do the job 3 times: Morimoto RetroRubber Butyl Glue - Old School Cool SWGPCK1 - https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-retro-rubber-butyl-glue?quantity=1

 

[MarkTR]

To be clear, I'd also send them back. Item not as represented, not your fault it was punted across the country.



Easy-peasy. ~285º for 20 minutes or so IIRC should soften the glue for the lens. Set both units on a piece of lumber so the metal rack can do no harm. Temps that low won't harm the plastic unless you go comatose for a couple weeks and leave them in.

Then they just pop off, and you use a small ball of the new glue to roll around the edges and clean them up. Be careful around the reflectors—they'll take a fingerprint super easy, and it sure looks dumb when you seal that big thumbprint back up. Allegedly.

Add glue back, press the new lens on, and heat in the oven for 4-5 minutes. Take it out, press the lens in—really squeeze that glue—and then put it back in the oven for 5 minutes. When you get them out, quickly put the metal clips back.

All in all, it's about an hour to swap lenses, not counting the time it takes you to remove from the truck or reinstall them.

About $25 for enough glue to do the job 3 times: Morimoto RetroRubber Butyl Glue - Old School Cool SWGPCK1 - https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-retro-rubber-butyl-glue?quantity=1

Thanks, big time for the how-to and the link to the Butyl Glue. I like easy-peasy.

Since I still want the glass lens I will try to get the seller to give me a larger rebate so I am not overpaying for the glass. They are like new and it will be hard to find another set this nice. With Lukes's plates and my original housings, I should end up with a nice set of lamps.

I will have to pick a time my wife is out for the afternoon- I am sure it will not smell like I baked a pan of brownies.

 

[MarkTR]

To be clear, I'd also send them back. Item not as represented, not your fault it was punted across the country.



Easy-peasy. ~285º for 20 minutes or so IIRC should soften the glue for the lens. Set both units on a piece of lumber so the metal rack can do no harm. Temps that low won't harm the plastic unless you go comatose for a couple weeks and leave them in.

Then they just pop off, and you use a small ball of the new glue to roll around the edges and clean them up. Be careful around the reflectors—they'll take a fingerprint super easy, and it sure looks dumb when you seal that big thumbprint back up. Allegedly.

Add glue back, press the new lens on, and heat in the oven for 4-5 minutes. Take it out, press the lens in—really squeeze that glue—and then put it back in the oven for 5 minutes. When you get them out, quickly put the metal clips back.

All in all, it's about an hour to swap lenses, not counting the time it takes you to remove from the truck or reinstall them.

About $25 for enough glue to do the job 3 times: Morimoto RetroRubber Butyl Glue - Old School Cool SWGPCK1 - https://www.morimotohid.com/morimoto-retro-rubber-butyl-glue?quantity=1

I have been reading Luke's thread and one forum member described removing the lens about the same way you have but he also said

"remove all the metal clips surrounding it, and one screw on the bottom next to the highbeam lens."

I looked at the housings and I do not see the screw he is referring to. Is this on the later housings- or am I going blind?

 

[saucebox]

I have been reading Luke's thread and one forum member described removing the lens about the same way you have but he also said

"remove all the metal clips surrounding it, and one screw on the bottom next to the highbeam lens."

I looked at the housings and I do not see the screw he is referring to. Is this on the later housings- or am I going blind?

I don't recall any screws either