Builds Ginger, a 94 FZJ love story (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 4, 2022
Threads
3
Messages
28
Location
Los Angeles, CA
I bought this truck off a fellow (he might still be here) back in Feb of this year, he called her "Ginger" and since she is red, why not keep the name. Compared to other 80s I looked at he had done some great work to her (new head, top-end rebuild, new cooling system, hoses and radiator, baby suspension) so I knew I had some good bones to work with, and NO rust. Ginger was center lock diff from the factory, the PO added a Spartan locker to the rear diff, it's great off-road but eh on the street - maybe she will become triple locked one day.

Here are a few early pics:
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(those are 285 MTs on 80 rims I use on the 4runner)

Specs how I got her:

172,xxx miles (verified via carfax)
851/860 springs
60018/60020 shocks
caster bushings
factory extended brake lines
EGR and PAR removed (no cel)
ARB
Badlands 12K winch
Spartan locker in rear diff (stock gears)

The power steering pump was leaking and I bought a replacement from Bosh Toyota, need to find time to install it.

I have a 99 4runner I use for more serious crawling (counter intuitive, I know) and I like that truck's size - the 80 is an iron pig compared to the 4runner. The goal for the 80 is an all around adventure bus (the A4 trans sounds like an actual bus) so I'm going mid on this build - 3" lift, practical armor, good flex, more comfortable ride.
Famous last works, I know

Since I've gotten her I've done a few things, with plenty more to do. Current specs (I will keep it updated) :

Suspension

Front
OME 2850 springs
30mm coil spacers (to level out the truck)
60070L shocks (temporary, one of the 60018 were bad)
Slee caster plates*
Toyota radius arm bushings, frame and axle side

Rear
No changes yet, still running 860s and 60020s

Drivetrain
10% underdrive gear (aka 90%)
3.1 low range gear
Spartan locker in rear diff (from PO)

Wheels & Tires
40th Anniversary 80 wheels
35x11.50 R16 Nitto Recon Grapplers (35" skinny talls)

Steering
Rebuilt knuckles with Cruiser Teq knuckle kit
New front rotors and pads
Marlin Crawler axle seals
(wheel and trunion bearings are still good)
Toyota 44320-60182 power steering pump (not yet installed)

Body
Side mirror repairs
-driver side spring fix
-mirror motor bottom stud
External window trim purchased (not yet installed)
Replace window tint (old stuff is crinkling and peeling)

Interior
This is where all the work will be after suspension is dialed
-double DIN stereo with dual cameras, F/R
-sub box and amp (has one now, sounds great but is ghetto)
-new seats (tbd)
-new carpet, to match my Oak/Tan 4runner interior
-door car refresh
-96/97 headliner swap (not sure this is even possible)
Rear drawer platform (sub box will integrate into this)

Lighting
Front spots will be changed
Fog lights will be added
Ditch lights will be added
Ground lights will be added
Chase lights will be added

Off-Road
ARB bumper
Badlands 12K winch
-swapping out to 1" syn line
Slee Transfer case skid
White Knuckle 10* sliders
GGM tire carrier, passenger (building now)
HAM radio (in-dash) & antenna
Diff armor (pending, TBD)
Extended bump stops (pending, PerryParts)

Here is how she sits today, September 2023, on Miller Heep Trail
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Last edited by a moderator:
Congrats on hooking up with Ginger. Prius Smasher clearly written on the front bumper…… I like the idea.
 
Can you pm me some Info on the 3.1 low range gears and 10% underdrive? I'm looking in to this and need to know what comes of it, what it takes to do it, and how it ends up after.
 
The US trucks might be different to our rigs but 15" rims won't fit post 1992 MY here.
 
Can you pm me some Info on the 3.1 low range gears and 10% underdrive? I'm looking in to this and need to know what comes of it, what it takes to do it, and how it ends up after.
The gears can be purchased commercially, like from Cruiser Teq, etc. and the install requires opening up the transfer case, and replacing gears.

Here's a video that explains the process


I am not affiliated with Cruiser Teq or the folks who made that video
Can you pm me some Info on the 3.1 low range gears and 10% underdrive? I'm looking in to this and need to know what comes of it, what it takes to do it, and how it ends up after.
 
What don't you like about the Spartan on the street?
Sometimes it doesn't ratchet and I scuff a tire going around a turn under load, obviously not an issue on dirt.

I pulled the rear 3rd and removed/inspected the Spartan install by the PO suspecting to find a thrush washer in there but it was installed correctly and all pins and springs were functioning properly. Measured the gap and found it to be on the low side of the acceptable range (~0.140" IIRC).

I have a few theories of why it performs the way it does, specifically the AWD drive train is pretty much always under load, so I shift into neutral to unload the drivetrain or coast around corners - just not uphill or when making tight turns - then it will scuff the inboard tire.

I had an Aussie locker in a previous RWD truck and had no issues, so it's not my first lunchbox locker rodeo. AWD is the buggest difference between my experiences.
 
Thanks.
Looking at Spartans/Aussies. Interesting hearing different opinions.
Don't want to turn your thread into a lunchbox locker discussion.
 
Thanks.
Looking at Spartans/Aussies. Interesting hearing different opinions.
Don't want to turn your thread into a lunchbox locker discussion.
Politics of locking device opions aside, it's an easy driveway mod that nets substantial benefits with minimal impact, cost or effort.

All brands of lunchbox locker function on the same principal and there is no tuning advantage, nor ability to selectively lock, so you need to learn to drive a bit differently - taking your foot off the gas sooner, or favoring coasting.

I just wish mine didn't scuff as much as it does, even with an adjusted driving style it pains me to know I'm leaving rubber on the literal road vs on the rocks.
 
Many of us run without the VC. I removed mine after it failed, or would have left it in place. In any case, it's an easy change that could help your locker behave in a more civilized manner. You could keep the VC and reinstall later if desired, etc.
 
I understand that. I'm meaning is there anything else I need to order or have on hand to do the job? Like seals and such. I do not know what it takes and what is needed. I will be dropping my truck off at the shop with the parts so I want to make sure I have everything expected.
The gears can be purchased commercially, like from Cruiser Teq, etc. and the install requires opening up the transfer case, and replacing gears.

Here's a video that explains the process


I am not affiliated with Cruiser Teq or the folks who made that video

M meaning
 
The bottom of the housing was recessed somewhat so I layered two rear plates and flushed the drain plug "dam" with the face of the second bottom strap
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Then welded it slowly together and capped the gap, and painted
PXL_20231203_220306003.jpg

I pulled and resealed the 3rd member after everything and cleaned both mating surfaces, studs and fasteners. Inspected welds from the inside. Inspected gears, seals and locker actuator and reassembled.

E-locker gasket PN 42181-60070
 
I used Rust-Oleum Farm & Tractor Paint, Low Gloss Black, it's available in cans and as a spray, it is pretty glossy and almost lays on like tar.
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I prepped the housing removing all rush I could and using a rusty metal primer before top coating. The painting happened over a few weeks due.to.work schedule and ambient temperatures. It came out pretty good, and very glossy lol
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Even the factory cover cleaned up pretty well!
 

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