Getting the bug. Thoughts on this specimen:

[pixelist]

Noob here.

'Been bitten by the FJ bug and have spent a couple weeks casually looking around for a good cheap specimen to satiate my newfound craving.

I came across this '69 locally and seems pretty solid to my un-trained eye.

The current owner, a Toyota mechanic, has owned it since 2008, but hasn't driven it. He's gone over everything and recently replaced brake parts and a window gasket. Runs smoothly. 16K on the odo. (This may actually be the case, given its history, but no documentation.) It's pretty much all stock.

It has been repainted in a darker metallic blue. (From the dash it looks like it was originally Capri Blue.) It has also had textured stuff sprayed throughout the interior . No rubber mat or rear seats or anything like that. Also no spare tire mount.

There's a bit of rust on the roof gutters and the paint is bubbling below the license plate. But otherwise, a lot better than many of the pics I've seen around here.

I haven't crawled all the way under it yet, but here are some pix of the frame and rear axle. I did notice some leaking on the front axle joints.

• What would be a good price?
• Thoughts?
• Things to look for?
• Non-original paint an issue? (I'd kinda rather have nice classic patina, but if it's a good deal, well...)
• Is '69 a good enough year to start out with?

I have looked a bit at some of the threads on things to look for and will check those things out.

I'd either keep it a few years and play with it or keep it forever, not sure yet.

Thanks!

 

[chappohj47]

hi mate would be a great buy say between 3500 to 5000 for price range

 

[cjgoode]

I would have to see in person, but I would 2,500 or less. He has owned it for 5 years and never driven it, that sounds like a story he is using to be able to say he did not know about the problems after you buy it. I guarantee it has 116k minimum, maybe 216K. Outside has been painted but not all the inside, the blue ruff stuff was sprayed over the window crank handle, and even the door strap. Someone so lazy to not even remove that door strap or even tape off the crank knob did not do a quality prep job under that coating. So you really have to worry about what is hiding under neath all that. Looks solid but looks can be very deceiving. How long ago was the outside painted? If over a year I would feel better, if only a few months I would be really worried about rust bubbles in a few months.

 

[subzali]

Someone converted it to a floor shift too.

 

[ken_79-fj40]

Did 69's have the dash pads? A friend of mine is rebuilding a 69 for his mother and it doesn't have them. On the east coast that's probably a $4k rig. The one he's working on is in similar shape and I think that's what it went for. But with FJ40's generally the newer they are the more desirable they are. Disc brakes, 2F, 4 speed, fine spline pinions, later style birfields, etc. All depends on what your plans are for it though.

 

[cjgoode]

My 1970 had the dash pad, and those rectangle turn signals on the front means it is a late 1969.

 

[Diskord]

I would have to see in person, but I would 2,500 or less. He has owned it for 5 years and never driven it, that sounds like a story he is using to be able to say he did not know about the problems after you buy it. I guarantee it has 116k minimum, maybe 216K. Outside has been painted but not all the inside, the blue ruff stuff was sprayed over the window crank handle, and even the door strap. Someone so lazy to not even remove that door strap or even tape off the crank knob did not do a quality prep job under that coating. So you really have to worry about what is hiding under neath all that. Looks solid but looks can be very deceiving. How long ago was the outside painted? If over a year I would feel better, if only a few months I would be really worried about rust bubbles in a few months.

My thoughts exactly...who owns a vehicle, especially a vehicle like this, for five years and never drives it? Maybe the color was just too shocking to imagine being seen in? (that thing needs some rattle-can dune beige STAT!)

Look it over VERY well, crawl underneath with a flashlight and spend some time there. Look in all the nooks and crannies underneath, bring a screwdriver, or something to prod at any accumulated mud/dirt that may be obscuring serious cancer in the rear corners/sill. Make sure it runs/drives well.

 

[GregRay]

A few other minor observations: driver's side floor appears to have rust (or it could just be dirt); the outside handle on the rear hatch is missing; and the seats are obviously aftermarket.

 

[Fast Eddy]

It does not have only 16k miles. Looks great underneath. Good basic pedigree. The shiny paint could be covering any number of issues. Use a magnet to look for areas of excess bondo. The liner job sucks, but I suppose I could live with it for the right price.

$2500-$3500?

 

[bigfj62]

Missing original wheels, dash cover plate installed, no rear tire carrier. Some things I noticed. They took the original bench seat out (that is a plus to me but the bench is worth some coin refurbished). Are there any rear jump seats?? You have to be leary when a 40 has been re-painted. Who knows what kinda of bondo artist you are dealing with. If you are seeing some hairline crack in the paint in different area you may have more bondo then you think. Check under the rear wheel wells. Look for rust holes that have been covered or patched. This will give you an idea of what kind of condition it is in. The frame looks pretty good. The engine looks pretty complete and tidy. If it drives nice I would be comfortable paying $3000 to $4000.

 

[middlecalf]

It does not have 16k miles.

Well, actually it probably does, plus an additional 100,000 more or maybe even 200,000!! LOL

"Never driven" and "Toyota mechanic" makes no sense and is unbelievable. So what else is, then?

I'd offer $2k. What does he know, he's never driven it?!

 

[pixelist]

Thanks for all your replies! Very all-over-the-place and very helpful.

I'm in Southern California, so I know that affects both the condition and price of vehicles available.

...Someone so lazy to not even remove that door strap or even tape off the crank knob did not do a quality prep job under that coating. So you really have to worry about what is hiding under neath all that. Looks solid but looks can be very deceiving. How long ago was the outside painted? If over a year I would feel better, if only a few months I would be really worried about rust bubbles in a few months.

The paint-job is a concern for sure.

It was painted by the previous-previous owner, so the paint job is 5+ years old.

I'll definitely bring a magnet and screwdriver to take a closer look at the condition under the paint and of the nooks and crannies underneath on my next visit.

My thoughts exactly...who owns a vehicle, especially a vehicle like this, for five years and never drives it? Maybe the color was just too shocking to imagine being seen in? (that thing needs some rattle-can dune beige STAT!)

True, you never know what the story is, but I can kinda believe it with this guy. Seems to own a lot of other vehicles, so I can see how he picked it up and then just wasn't into it/was busy with other things...

I'd much rather a stock color myself, but funny thing is my GF likes this color much better than the orange one we also looked at. (She's also supportive of the my getting an FJ having enjoyed owning a VW Thing in the past herself.)

A few other minor observations: driver's side floor appears to have rust (or it could just be dirt); the outside handle on the rear hatch is missing.

Floor issue seems to be primarily grime. Will poke around to see if there are pinholes under it though.

Yeah, hmm. The outside handle is missing and the holes seem to be slicked over too so that might indicate more bondo than is initially apparent.

Looks great underneath. Good basic pedigree.

Apparently it was brought up from Nicaragua where it had lived most of its life! (I'd love to talk to the P-PO and find out the story on that. I think I can get his contact info, he lives a couple towns over.)

Are there any rear jump seats?? You have to be leary when a 40 has been re-painted. Who knows what kinda of bondo artist you are dealing with. If you are seeing some hairline crack in the paint in different area you may have more bondo then you think. Check under the rear wheel wells. Look for rust holes that have been covered or patched. This will give you an idea of what kind of condition it is in.

No rear jump seats, nor any floor mats/carpets anywhere. The bed and wheel wells looked solid.

Will definitely be taking a closer look, the paint does look clean and solid with no cracks or whatnot aside from the few trouble spots previously mentioned.

"Never driven" and "Toyota mechanic" makes no sense and is unbelievable. So what else is, then?

I hear ya, you never know. He seems to be one of those guys who has a storage yard and is always picking up all kinds of projects, RVs, etc. Used to work at the dealership, now at a private garage...

Thanks all, I'll keep digging into it. Any more thoughts are appreciated.

 

[darwink1]

Check out the frame at the rear shackle hangers and rear spring hangers. Mine had some issues in those spots.

D

 

[Coastline]

Take an extra $100 off for the chrome gear shift knob.

 

[pavieSD]

Apparently it was brought up from Nicaragua where it had lived most of its life! (I'd love to talk to the P-PO and find out the story on that. I think I can get his contact info, he lives a couple towns over.)

That right there is all you need to know. Avoid it. Plenty of california rigs that are going to be in much better shape then a central america rig that was maintained with questionable funds and very little access to OEM parts. The paint job says a lot about their lack of attention to detail already, and there is a lot of mechanical you won't really know is good or not, until you start taking it apart or things break.

I suggest you PM davegonez and ask him about his experiences. Based on his build thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/391252-my-black-1979-fj40.html

He knew going in that it was going to be a basket case. It's likely to be a lot of money to get it up to basic stock 1970 safety standards let alone modern safety standards.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Avoid it. Plenty of california rigs that are going to be in much better shape then a central america rig

I have to disagree. I've seen the underside of lots of them, and this one is far from deserving of an, "avoid it" recommendation outright. Check the frame by the hangers, but I'm guessing it's fine.

Kind of surprised to see a heater in a rig from Nicaragua.

 

[pixelist]

I suggest you PM davegonez and ask him about his experiences. Based on his build thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/391252-my-black-1979-fj40.html

Thanks, Contacted.

Aside from the paint, this one seems fairly clean compared to David's. Wish it had documentation though, that would be nice.

 

[pavieSD]

I have to disagree. I've seen the underside of lots of them, and this one is far from deserving of an, "avoid it" recommendation outright. Check the frame by the hangers, but I'm guessing it's fine.

Kind of surprised to see a heater in a rig from Nicaragua.

I guess it comes down to your skill level and such. Although the underside is clean, who knows if they properly serviced and greased the many components of the drive train, some of which you won't be able to inspect without a tear down, e.g. transfer case, diff, steering box, electrical wiring etc.

If you're comfortable with these unknowns and have the capabilities to fix these yourself should they become an issue, then it might be worth considering. Myself, I'd prefer to find a clean California/Arizona rig that had the same level of condition minus the paint job and figure that I would be starting with a better base then a central American rig of unknown history.

 

[cjgoode]

If that paint is 5 years old and not cracking and no clear putty work I would be happy with it, it has putty that is for sure, but they must have done an OK job for it to not be cracking and bubbling. My cj8 I did, a learning experience where I did gorilla hair to fill in deep dents I just could not get to the backside to get out with a layer of bondo after many years you cannot see at all but a magnet would never stick, areas on the cowl I did a super thin skim coat to deal with some pitting started cracking after 3 years, a magnet would stick to that no problems. Its all about the proper mixing, but after 5 years I would think you are good.

 

[brooklyn]

price

Agree with most of comments, but I think some of the purchase amounts are low. Low rust truck that is not cut up on the east coast is going to cost you 5-6k and maybe more. if he is a mechanic negotiate the fixes you want as part of establishing the purchase price. good luck.