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Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Threads
12
Messages
37
Location
Lakewood, CO
I've owned my 60 for almost a year now. It's my primary vehicle,which adds a degree of difficulty in starting a build. I'm looking for some advice on where to start. The vehicle is stock except for a tubular bumper up front, and a tow package. I am the third owner. The vehicle has been well maintained, and has 204,796 miles on the original engine. There are some dents, dings, and rust. Overall it's in good condition, and at $900.00 it was too a deal to pass up. Any/all advice will be greatly appreciated.:confused:
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what do plan to use the rig for?????? off road? daily driver ??? little of both??? these questions will help all of us give you a solid answer. Welcome to mud:flipoff2:(official mud welcome)
Welcome aboard!!:beer:
 
welcome! :flipoff2:

After a year - what issues does it have that you need to fix? what's your budget? what do you want to build it for?

I think you can look at the ROTM/ROTW's and see some sweet builds to pick and choose upgrades.

I am doing something similar, but luckily have 2 60's so i can drive the backup while mine is being worked on.

I added dual batts, MG Alt, Upgraded headlights (a must), a tuffy (also like ammo can option - putting in my backup 60), LED's everywhere i can squeeze them in, In process of bodywork, sliding windows, stereo and damplifier install... it's an ongoing project.

also check the <50$ thread - some really great inexpensive stuff in there.

GL!

rob
 
I think the first thing I would do is tackle the rust, because depending upon the extent of the rust (i.e. rain gutter), that will determine how excited I get about the rest of the build (i.e. cash investment).
 
I think the first thing I would do is tackle the rust, because depending upon the extent of the rust (i.e. rain gutter), that will determine how excited I get about the rest of the build (i.e. cash investment).

VERY true! I would be careful about doing upgrades on a truck that hasn't had rust fixed first.

At least with a 900.00 purchase you hopefully have a good amount you didn't spend on the truck you can use for rust repair! (i know it doesn't really work that way - but might work for the GF/wife)

what year 60?

rob
 
I'm looking for the best of both worlds( off road/ daily driver ). Off roading really only occurs in the fall during big game season. I'm pretty sure with greater capability though, I wouldn't have to look too hard to find an excuse to do more.
 
Hey newbie!!!

If you can't look at a rust spot and say: "that's a $500 rust spot, then go to someone who can look at it and give you some prices.

In general, you will have these options, listed in increasing cost:

1) Do nothing
2) do the work yourself
3) Perform superficial repairs
4) Perform complete repairs

Somewhere in these 4 options will lie your personal choice of tackling the rust on your rig.

You are doing the right thing by reading, asking questions and learning.

Warm regards,

Rick
 
Welcome to MUD! Now we need some pics posted. That way you will get some good answers and direction. With rust, there is usually more hidden than can be seen. Media blasting suspect areas is a good start.
 
I'm looking for the best of both worlds( off road/ daily driver ). Off roading really only occurs in the fall during big game season. I'm pretty sure with greater capability though, I wouldn't have to look too hard to find an excuse to do more.

First tackle Rust! no use spending $$ on a truck that is slowly dying. But once rust is taken care of - for a DD'er i'd do OME lift (it will ride better than it does now). Med or Heavy depending if you are going to get a bullbar/winch and how much gear/weight you haul around. And size of tire you want. I'd do 33's, but you will probably want to regear to 4.11's (not cheap and you only want to do it once)

It's an '84.
so like my 84, a h55f is possible, but a little more work (drop-in for 85+) = 5sp is awesome for freeway driving and lower 1st gear for offroad.

What's the best way to evaluate the extent of the rust, and also what are the best fixes?

Do this before you do any other upgrades (ok maybe some of the 50$ ones...) Seriously though, this will kill your truck given time and should be fixed before anything else except maintenance and reliability fixes. Take it to a reputable shop and get a quote. Then figure out if you can fix it yourself (can you weld?), or start saving up to get it de-rusted.

another rust option is to post pics of what's rusted and get some guys to give you feedback on how bad it is. They may have suggestions on how to fix if you want to try fixing yourself.

GL!

rob
 
My goals are similar to yours. Here is what I have done or will be doing shortly:

1. Fix the rust on exterior (small amount) and under the carpets (bigger amount). Had to remove the fenders to fix the leaks causing the interior rust.
2. Repaint
3. New OME suspension
4. New Procar Elite lumbar support front seats
5. Replace all the weatherstripping around the doors and windows (including windshield and cargo area windows) with OEM, add WagonGear weatherstripping, and sound deaden with RAAMMat
6. Replace rear view mirror with a new auto dimming mirror with compass and outside temp (Gentex)
7. Fix all the oil leaks and any other mechanical issues that have been ignored like steering/front end parts and brakes. Since my rig is an fj62 with a 3FE engine, I also proactively replaced parts that get old and have been known to cause problems like O2 sensors, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure dampener. Also replaced vacuum hoses, radiator hoses, etc. My 3FE sounds like a sewing machine--very smooth with just the right amount of click.
8. Upgrade headlights (Daniel Stern), LED dash lights, and new horns (no more beep beep for me)
9. I plan on driving it for another 100K/10years, so my cost (including purchase and restoration) when spread out over the 10 years is less than $100 per month.
 
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