Getting ready to Turbo 1HZ

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Joined
Jun 25, 2005
Threads
12
Messages
210
Location
North Okanagan, BC
My turbo is here - a Mitsubishi TD04-15G unit from a Volvo 2.3L gasser . Acording to the compressor map, I should be at peak efficiency at about 2400 rpm, up on boost before 1500 rpm, and choking the engine if I go past 4000 rpm...Should be just about perfect for what I want.

I picked up the mandrel bent 3inch elbows yesterday, and they are spendy like Wayne says, about double what the 2.5" stuff cost on my street rod. The muffler should be here tomorrow. Its a 6" dia x 18" long Magnaflow (the biggest that would fit) that I intend to mount almost exactly where the resonator is on the stock HZJ73 system (right behind the right front tire). From there, it will be straight back, with a 90 deg. dump in front of the rear tire for now. If it's too loud, I'll change it latter.

When I was measuring up for the muffler last night, I threw my calipers on the existing exhaust sytem, and discovered a big surprise . The stock system measures a little over 2.3" OD for most of the system, but right at the resonator, the exhaust pipe necks down to 1.9" OD, going into and out of the resonator! No wonder the HZJ's "respond very well" to a free flowing exhaust system, and seem to "run out of breath" at higher rpm!! The 3" system will have almost 3 times the area of those restrictions.

I've replaced the aftermarket double din headunit that came with the L/C, with a single din, and now have room for three gauges below the stereo. I'm thinking of putting a mechanical oil pressure, mechanical water temp, and a tranny temp gaige in that location, with boost and pyro's cup mounted on top of the dash, dead centre in front of the driver. After looking around, I've settled on VDO Vision series gauges - they appear more "stock" than most aftermarket gauges, and are quite reasonably priced.

Over the break, I'll be putting together the rest of the "Kit" required for the turbo install, and will post pictures in this thread when I accomplish some stuff.

Jim
 
i am looking forward to the pics na dwrite up...
if you don't mind do a 0-100K?H test at each stage and let us know the changes...
cheers and happy holidays
 
crushers said:
i am looking forward to the pics na dwrite up...
if you don't mind do a 0-100K?H test at each stage and let us know the changes...
cheers and happy holidays



Me too.


Kalawang
 
I'll second the VDO option--everybody seems to go for Autometer here so they must be good, but the price and style of the VDO has me sold. I have a 'cockpit' series mech oil px gauge I still need to install in the old radio opening...

Look forward to the details on your project--I hope to homebrew a turbo some day too.

B
 
Right now, the radio is in the top slot of the stock opening, but I may move it to the bottom to have a better view of the gauges. Problem being, several on this board have reported issues with the mechanical oil pressure gauges failing/leaking (Autometer units IIRC), and I wouldn't want the oil dripping onto/into the stereo.:doh:

Jim
 
i just picked up a Pyro from autometer and the bloody thing doesn't worka t all...
the oil guage in the PZ just started seeping recently and now this...
that, for me, was the last straw. no more auto meters.
so a shopping i will go...
cheers
 
crushers said:
i just picked up a Pyro from autometer and the bloody thing doesn't worka t all...
the oil guage in the PZ just started seeping recently and now this...
that, for me, was the last straw. no more auto meters.
so a shopping i will go...
cheers

Ya Autometer is just readily availble stuff. Can be bought anywhere. Thats why we all have it. Not because it is good. Just there.

I would have wanted an Isspro pyro, but try to find in Smithers! Even the auto meter had me drive 350kms for, one way!
 
Diescipel said:

too far away, works for ontario people, that company is in Michigan.

I have ordered some parts from the US, UPS is money grab, doing the brokerage crappola...

Oh and Canada steps up and hits us with GST and duty if not from the US......

My 150 usd fender I ordered ended up around 450-500 after shipping, and all the fees...........becareful ordering from the US, lots of hidden charges you just can't figure all out before it gets shipped.
 
First Up date.

Okay, went to town today and picked up the muffler, pipe and a few more bits so that I can do the exhaust upgrade in the next few days. Dang that Magnaflow has a big hole through it!


As suggested by Wayne, I went and did some 0-100 runs in the stock configuration...Not too scientific, didn't use a data logger or anything like that - just hit the stop watch on the 'Cruiser clock as I masshed the throttle.. Basically, after a few runs I'd say she would do 0-100 in 21.5 seconds....... It didn't matter if you let it rev and shift when it wanted, or just gave it half throttle so it would shift at 3000 to 3200 - all runs were in the 21.5 to 22 second range, and passing through 90 km/h at about the 15 to 16 second range. As I've said before, the motor seems to hit the wall at 3000 rpm, and you may as well up-shift..

Some pictures of the culprit -

resonator.JPG

The main pipe measures 2 3/8" before it necks down for the resonator, and the OD going into the resonator is 1.9" !!!!

Well, I bucked that puppy out of there, and installed a 2 1/2" straight pipe in it's place temporarily, just for the heck of it. Here it is beside it's replacement.

compare.JPG

The wall thickness of the pipe of the resonator is about .080 - so the id is in the 1 3/4" range

Well, took the Cruiser out to the same stretch of road as before - On the way there, noticed that the engine did not sound quite as subdued, and you can hear and feel it pull strongly after 3000 rpm. It is definately making more power! Ran the test a few times, and now it does 0-100 in 18 to 18.5 seconds - And I got it down to 16.5 once by loading the torque converter against the brakes.

So, the next step is to do the 3" system and test again!
resonator.webp
compare.webp
 
cool results! with out using a stopwatch would have been hard to compare. Might feel like a slight increase. But on the watch pretty good.
 
Now you've done it. I'm going to have to look to an exhaust upgrade what with the results you show.


Kalawang
 
Don't get too excited yet - remember, this is just from removing the stock resonator and replacing it with 14" of 2 1/2" OD tube...Should have the 3" system in place in the next couple of days..
 
keep us posted!

I was hoping to turbo my 1HZ this spring, but my sister needed a vehicle so I ended up buying her one. Well technically it's "my" vehicle but she will be driving it for now. either way it ate into my cruiser funds.....

let us know how that mitsu works out. I was going to get the garrett gt28rs BB turbo but for teh reason above, i may look into a used saab or volvo unit....

PICS!
 
3" Exhaust update -

Well, I spent too much time fitting the muffler and the exhaust prior to going back to work for two days this week, so didn't get any pictures of it before I hit the very sloppy roads, so the exhaust system doesn't look nice and fresh in the pictures.

The 6" dia. muffler and the 3" exhaust is a very tight fit where I put it, largely due to the running board mounting brackets... in fact, I had to nip off the outside corners of the bracket so that the muffler and pipe assembly would swing up into place without prying.. Basically, the assembly must be fabricated to about 1/8" accuracy for it all to work and balance the clearances. A little too tight. I'm running about 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the running board mounts, the tranny x-member mount, and the front cab mount. When the turbo is mounted, I will shorten up the 90 that goes into the muffler, and gain an inch or two for clearance to the tire...

Now for the bad news - the Cruiser is freakin' loud under load, and it made very little differance to the performance - maybe dropped 1/2 a second off the 0-100 time - I'll have to hurry and get the turbo mounted, and hopefully shut it up... It isn't bad at an idle or running down the road, but come to a hill, and all hell breaks lose.

Oh yeah - the sand is the result of driving the 10 km home from the car wash - no wonder Canadian 'Cruisers rust! And it looks like I need to tighten the rear muffler clamp.
thru inner fender.webp
muffler.webp
outlet.webp
 
a bit of a job isn't it? but in the end it is worth the frustration. looks like a nice clean job, is it quiet?
cheers and congrates
 
Jim_Hbar said:
I've replaced the aftermarket double din headunit that came with the L/C, with a single din, and now have room for three gauges below the stereo. I'm thinking of putting a mechanical oil pressure, mechanical water temp, and a tranny temp gaige in that location, with boost and pyro's cup mounted on top of the dash, dead centre in front of the driver. After looking around, I've settled on VDO Vision series gauges - they appear more "stock" than most aftermarket gauges, and are quite reasonably priced.

Over the break, I'll be putting together the rest of the "Kit" required for the turbo install, and will post pictures in this thread when I accomplish some stuff.

Jim

I've been looking at the VDO vision line as well. Just as a note, you can order most of them in 24v. I've been dealing with a marine supplier; they gave me the VDO marine catalog, if you have any questions. I'm not sure I can make them fit under the stereo. 2.0625" is pretty tight.

Edit: you can also get green slip on light covers to match the factory lighting as well...

Post pics as you go please.
 
Wayne: it's okay at an idle, and running at speed, but it is way too loud when you get into the throttle - without the turbo...Hell, if the exhaust was a little straighter, you'd be able to see the exhaust valves!

Expat: It's looking like the stock "trim" around the radio opening will get cut into two pieces, which should free up about 3/4" in height. The Vision gauges have an OD of 2 1/4", and I want to mount them so that the faces are square to the driver...

On a side note, the TD04HL turbo has some odd "true metric" threaded ports. (Most so called "metric" hydraulic fittings actually use BSPP threads). Digging through my referance material at work, and online, I could not find the adapters that I wanted.

The water and oil inlet ports are tapped M12x1.5, and I want to run -6 JIC hose ends. Stock, the turbo runs a Banjo style fitting, which are a catalogue item for Parker, but I'm certain they are not in everybody's inventory - plus the banjo really limits what can happen with the hoses and the directions they head, due to the turbo housings. And then there is the sourcing problem in the future if one blows a hose...Adapters are made that go from the metric port to a metric threaded 37deg end, but it has 8mm threads (for a -4 size hose mainly), and again that makes for a bastard hose. So I'm going to modify some -6JIC to -6 ORB fittings to suit the metric ports, so that I can run standard JIC hose ends.

Jim
 

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