Getting ready to Turbo 1HZ

[Jim_Hbar]

Gauges are in........

....but not sensing anything yet - only the lights are hooked up, but they are mounted!!!!. The Boss had picked them up from the post office before I got home yesterday......so I started working on it last night.

Changed the plan slightly, after playing with the gauges and the available space..Mounting them under the head-unit put them too low for good visibility, so I decided to mount them above the unit and aim them at the driver - caused a bunch of extra work, and a bunch of fiddly fabrication to make the mounting piece....The gauge mount itself is made from 11 pieces!!! You don't want to know how much time I have tied up in that little piece of tin!!!!!!

Anyway here's a couple of shots - the first is with the flash, taken from the back seat - the actual installation looks better than that picture - the flash lighting is too harsh...

The second shows no-flash from the drivers head position, and gives you a good idea how it will look at night.

The third shows the "as delivered" dash with the previous Kenwood unit, with all the "special" wiring for the light bar and the drink heater......

 

[beanz2]

Very nice gauges, Jim. Can you show us how you made the gauges tilt toward the driver?

BTW, I've been trying unsuccessfully to fit the foot rest seen in the first picture into mine. It doesn't fit as the clutch pedal hits it square in the middle. Now I realize it's meant only for automatic vehicles

Dave

 

[Jim_Hbar]

Oh yeah - a few more comments -

Good news;
- Landed cost for the five gauges and the two mounting cups was right around $400 CDN - from Summit Racing - ordered on Dec 28, and got here Friday... Even with my "good" pricing from Lordco, I was looking at over $600.

Bad news;
- A bit of a PITA, the boost and oil pressure gauge didn't come with tubing
- there are slight dents on a couple of the gauges - they came loose in the box.
- The Pyro is Swiss made - a couple of the others were made in Germany, and a couple more were made in Malaysia...and the art work/needle colour/fonts are just very slightly different - just enought to notice if you look for it..

I just hope that the oil gauge doesn't leak!


Dave:

To make the dash mount , I went to Crappy Tire and picked up a piece of 2" ID exhaust pipe - it actually measured about 2.030, and was fairly round, but had a ridge from the seam - cut two inch long chunks, and chucked them VERY carefully in the lathe, faced both ends and then I actually bored exhaust pipe - with very light cuts until I had a sliding fit on the gauges - which measure about 2.040 +/- ...Had a 40% scrap rate - mangled the first piece bad, and crunched a carbide doing it...... It would have been nice to run down to the muffler shop and have them expand the pipe a titch,,,, butcha use what ya have......

Then the bezels on the gauges are 2 1/8" od, and the pipe was about 2.080 - so 18 gauge spacers between the pipes so the bezel would miss the gauge to the right....a bit of welding, and a bunch of fitting to fit the face panel - all six pieces of it, and voila - a bit of artistic grinding, and a quick spray of black rock gaurd, and the gauge mount is done ---- trial fit - grind the dash so that the face plate will open on the headunit...then all wots left is wiring etc....

Funny how two short paragraphs takes about 10 hours to accomplish!!!!

 

[Jim_Hbar]

Dave:

I'll trade you the dead peddle for a clutch!!!!!

Actually, my left foot lives on that peddle- The HZJ73 is the second daily driver that I've ever owned with a automatic, in 34 years of vehicle ownership.... And I shift the tranny about 75% of the time anyway...

Jim

 

[beanz2]

Very nice. Autometer makes these angle rings but they are made of ABS. They are about $10-15 US each:

You know, those 80 series guys swear by their automatics, so having one may just be a blessing for you

Dave

 

[Tapage]

dude .. !!!

what a F beauty image .. !!!

 

[Jim_Hbar]

On Sunday, I re-installed the stock muffler and tailpipe. Downstream of the 3" muffler. I jumped over the frame with two mandrel 3inch 90's, and installed a flange connection salvaged from the resonator change-out. The HZJ is now quieter than stock, but it has a pleasing note to it over 3000 rpm. And it still pulls fine in the top end of the power band. Timed 0-100 was 17.9 seconds

I've received a PM about changing to a 2 1/2" system from stock, so I went and measured some pipe, and did some area calc's

resonator - 1.75" i.d. = 2.40 sq.in.
stock 60 mm - 2.20" i.d. = 3.80 sq.in.
2 1/2" pipe - 2.35" i.d. = 4.34 sq.in.
3" pipe - 2.85" i.d. = 6.38 sq.in.

Now, compressable fluid restrictions don't quite "add" the way most would expect, but the x-sectional area is one of the most significant factors.

Personally, I wouldn't change out the high quality stainless stock system for a 2 1/2" system - wouldn't be worth it for the 10 to 15% potential flow gain, IMO. However, chop that resonator out at the first opportunity, and put a cheap 2 1/2" glass pack in it's place.

If I had to do it over again right now, I would do the modifications in the following order:

1) Dump the resonator, and replace with a glass-pack
2) Install Pyro and other gauges.
3) Install turbo on stock exhaust
4) Upgrade the exhaust, with a BIG 3" muffler in the stock location, and run it right out the back.

Beanz:
Nice bezels, but I don't think they would allow three gauges to be installed in the same spot. Major axis of the ellipse needs to be 2 1/4" or less.

Tapage:
You should see them now - I installed the green condoms on the light bulbs, and they are not as bright, and much closer to lighting of the stock gauges now.

Jim

 

[Tapage]

Tapage:
You should see them now - I installed the green condoms on the light bulbs, and they are not as bright, and much closer to lighting of the stock gauges now.

Jim

Hi Jim .. I do diferent .. I remove all green hats for all factory lets and all now are white and much more bright.

 

[crushers]

and i like hte green for a classy install. on a bush truck i can see myself leaving the condom off for ease of visibility...

 

[tmarx]

Please forgive me if I am off topic

Please help a lurker.
After many searches on this forum and lots of deliberations I have booked my truck to be turboed and intercooled in 3 weeks time. It involves a Mitshibishi TD04 15T water cooled unit and an Aqua intercooler.As I am mechanically challenged the work will be done buy "specialists" who are 1600kms away.Their standard settings are 7 PSi and Egts at 700 deg C.The latter I am not happy about and have indicated that I would like a pyro to be fitted simultaneously and Egts to be 650 max.The OEM exhaust was always going to be chucked for an oversize freeflow unit.I am having a hard time deciding whether to upgrade the exhaust now or to wait untill after the turbo etc.Also, should it be 2.5" or 3"?
Any comments or last minute advice please .

 

[crushers]

first, to help drop the EGTs go to a higher boost setting. the 2 1/2" exhaust allows the engine to breath fine but a 3" will further lower the EGTs. i would wait on the exhaust if it is only 3 weeks wait time...

 

[tmarx]

Thanks Wayne.
In respect of the exhaust itself would you then suggest a 3" with muffler only and no resonator?I was thinking of doing the exhaust before driving up to get the turbo installed as the install includes a new manifold("split pulse" for whatever that is worth)?

 

[crushers]

me, i like it quiet so i put a muffler and a resonator on my systems...

 

[tmarx]

Only one week to wait before I can get my baby her Turbo and IC

 

[tmarx]

The deed has been done and I am very happy sofar.I have subsequently addad a 2.5" exhaust. Some pics:

The max EGTs registered sofar was on the initial dyno at 620 degC.The max boost on the dyno was .72 bar.The latter I think might be a little high although she is intercooled?(My own aviational Boost gauge only showed .68 bar) My only concern is the fact that the turbo developed a whistle noise below 1900 Rpm.It is the Mitshubishi TD04 turbo which is somewhat small but spools up nice and quick.The install was done at high altitude and I live at sea level.Onmy way back and after a huge drop in altitude after a monster pass the sudden whistle was present.Should I be concerned about this?Thanx for all the help and info on this site which helped me to improve my truck.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Sad but true, only thing these companies have are adapters, seen them at the Lordco trade show.

I have struggled on power steering boxes and hose replacement on cruisers for hydro assist and custom steering setups.

Not sure how you will modify these fittings?

Guessing you are taking about the fittings then brazing it back together with the metric fitting??

Rob



On a side note, the TD04HL turbo has some odd "true metric" threaded ports. (Most so called "metric" hydraulic fittings actually use BSPP threads). Digging through my referance material at work, and online, I could not find the adapters that I wanted.

The water and oil inlet ports are tapped M12x1.5, and I want to run -6 JIC hose ends. Stock, the turbo runs a Banjo style fitting, which are a catalogue item for Parker, but I'm certain they are not in everybody's inventory - plus the banjo really limits what can happen with the hoses and the directions they head, due to the turbo housings. And then there is the sourcing problem in the future if one blows a hose...Adapters are made that go from the metric port to a metric threaded 37deg end, but it has 8mm threads (for a -4 size hose mainly), and again that makes for a bastard hose. So I'm going to modify some -6JIC to -6 ORB fittings to suit the metric ports, so that I can run standard JIC hose ends.

Jim[/QUOTE]

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Should post up a seperate thread on the water to air cooler, Denco makes a verys simular set up and mentioned by one mudder on the board at low rpms IE rock crawling the big air to air does very little, while water to air is always working.

The deed has been done and I am very happy sofar.I have subsequently addad a 2.5" exhaust. Some pics:

The max EGTs registered sofar was on the initial dyno at 620 degC.The max boost on the dyno was .72 bar.The latter I think might be a little high although she is intercooled?(My own aviational Boost gauge only showed .68 bar) My only concern is the fact that the turbo developed a whistle noise below 1900 Rpm.It is the Mitshubishi TD04 turbo which is somewhat small but spools up nice and quick.The install was done at high altitude and I live at sea level.Onmy way back and after a huge drop in altitude after a monster pass the sudden whistle was present.Should I be concerned about this?Thanx for all the help and info on this site which helped me to improve my truck.

 

[tmarx]

The whistle has subdued but is still there at below 1800 Rpm.What is strange is it's presence when you take your foot off the accelerator.There is no signs of oil on the compressor side or any apparent signs of damage to the blades.Will be stripping everything off this weekend to see on the exhaust side of the turbo.Strange though that she has not lost any boost??Any ideas, please