Getting Randy back into his prime (1 Viewer)

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Oh, and my brother (who found the truck for me) is not a fan of the name. I mean he didn't say "yeah, that's stupid", but he did the "yeah, that's stupid" laugh when I told him. So I can take a hint.
 

NeverGiveUpYota

Dare me.
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Your work is amazing. Thanks for sharing the great pics. I absolutely have that task in my near future.
Did you do two layers as you mentioned?
 
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Your work is amazing. Thanks for sharing the great pics. I absolutely have that task in my near future.
Did you do two layers as you mentioned?
Thanks Yota! I get way more than I give here. I haven't added the second layer, but I will likely do that since I've got a bit of a gap to fill and the fact that the sheet metal I'm using is pretty thin. I think if you used something thicker (maybe 14 gauge?) one layer is more than enough. To be honest, one layer is pretty solid, but a solid bump with a knee and it will warp I think. Two layers will take a pretty legit knock to get it to buckle. I'll keep posting pics. But that inner fender is gonna be a bitch because of the multiple bends...not sure how I'm gonna deal with that yet.

Oh, another reason to go heavier gauge metal, you don't burn through it in a half second. This stuff is super easy to mold to the shapes you want, but a real PITA to weld. I'm on 2nd lowest setting, running .023 wire and still burn holes like crazy. I have to use the copper spoon all the time to hold the weld or it just falls off if I go for like a whole second. Eh, first world problems.
 
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Well my intention has been to just buy a valence all along, but I'm not sure now. I'm thinking I can make this one work. I spent a few hours tonight with a planishing hammer and a few dollies. Whatcha think?
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Looking good! I’m in the same boat and learning as I go tackling 60 roof rust.. it’s actually fun to make patch pieces. Keep up the good work!!!View attachment 2506715View attachment 2506716View attachment 2506717
You are doing the stuff I did on the previous project...well the project that is still in my shop. Those areas on the roof can be a real bitch, since there is actually a very slight curve in the piece in that area. If you are ever feeling bad about the rust on your rig, read this, and know that it can be so SOOO much worse. In fact looking back at some of the pictures I question my own sanity.
Builds - Honestly, WTF was I thinking? | IH8MUD Forum
 

diesellibrarian

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Where the prairies meet the Rockies
It's just metal, right? Fabricating wheel arches seems hard, especially considering I have no actual training and just figure this sh:t out as I go. I did create a cardboard template so that I can reconstruct the line, but it's the lip that's going to be a biotch. Right now I'm creating patches that are longer than necessary so that I can create the lip later. Then I'll create the inner fender well pieces and weld them in place prior to folding the outer fender lip. I know I need two layer for rigidity, but not sure if this is the "best" way to do it. I figure a bead roller would be best, but if a frog had wings... Any pointers are appreciated here. I've got lots of metal, so I'm fine with starting over if that's what's needed.
View attachment 2504264

You can't see it in this picture, but I have a cardboard template taped up out of the way. I tack in the patch then let the template hang down and draw the line. I know that how I'm doing it will work, but I'm curious if there is a faster/better way in lieu of fancy tools or preformed metal bits.

I have to do basically this exact same thing, and my plan is to make a cardboard template as you have done, then use the cardboard template to build a plywood form that matches the contour of the fender, and then shape the patch using a hammer to roll the lip over the plywood form. Then I'll lay the patch over the existing rusty fender, tack weld it in place, and then cut out the rotten stuff behind it, using the edge of new patch as a guide for the grinder, and welding along the cut line to fuse the patch with the solid metal on the panel (the "cut and butt" technique described in this video). Then pull the rotten stuff out from inside the quarter panel. That way, you can keep everything lined up, and you don't lose your reference points during the process.
 
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I have to do basically this exact same thing, and my plan is to make a cardboard template as you have done, then use the cardboard template to build a plywood form that matches the contour of the fender, and then shape the patch using a hammer to roll the lip over the plywood form. Then I'll lay the patch over the existing rusty fender, tack weld it in place, and then cut out the rotten stuff behind it, using the edge of new patch as a guide for the grinder, and welding along the cut line to fuse the patch with the solid metal on the panel (the "cut and butt" technique described in this video). Then pull the rotten stuff out from inside the quarter panel. That way, you can keep everything lined up, and you don't lose your reference points during the process.
That sounds like a good plan. You got a thread started? I'd like to follow your progress.
 
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So I was looking at the battery and noticed the tray was a little crusty, and upon further inspection and removal I am considering replacing the battery tray. I hope I'm not being too hasty.

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It appears a battery vomited and no one neutralized the acid and it did its thing
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Luckily I have a good inner fender I can swap out, but it occured to me that now might be a good time to prep for a dual battery setup. I did a quick search and didn't see any dual battery trays for the 60 series. Would this required gabbing up a dual battery tray, or what? Should I just go with a stock tray and find a spot for another battery later?
 
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It's been a productive Thanksgiving! I wrapped up the passenger rear fender well. I did end up putting in the second layer and it is super stiff now. I used my tried and true caterpillar method. Using my little HF metal brake I was able to put the main crease into the patch then add a slight crease about 1/2" above it so the metal would want to bend along that crease. Then using my favorite hammer I just coaxed it into place, tacking as I went.
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And once I had gone back and welded it up and then ground the welds I sealed it up with some 3M Dynapro sealer. That stuff is super tacky.
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I realized that I will have to go back and grind some of this back and add a bit more material for the mud flaps. The driver's side was much faster because there was so much less reconstruction to do.
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During a break while typing this ony phone I went ahead and added the extra bit for the mudflap too
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Grinding that sealer off is a mess. So next will be removing the driver side rear quarter window to fix the rust there.

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Focused on the last bit of rust I've found, under the rear quarter window gasket. I got the window out and could see that it's likely someone had the window out before and it looked like there was just red primer under gasket for the most part. Doesn't see like something the factory would have done to me. Also found a couple more spots that were starting to get a little cancer and nipped that in the bud while there.
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Also replaced the inner fender on the passenger side where the battery attacked it. While it was out I cleaned off the other bits in there and hit all the rusty bits with some Rust Killer to, hopefully, stop it from getting out of hand.

And when I got home I found my stainless tray waiting for me. Perfect timing!
 
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COLORS
Yo Ease let's do this
I am a nightmare walking, psychopath talking
King of my jungle just a gangster stalking


Sorry, I digress. So, I'm getting to the point where I need to be thinking about colors. I've pretty much wrapped up all the sheet metal work and will start blocking the body to find all the dings that need fixing. The truck was painted in Copper Metallic (Paint Code: 474) when it was new, but I've never seen Copper Metallic freshly sprayed, so I'm not sure how deep the color is, really. I found Sunset Burgundy (4U3) on some of the newer Tundras that I really like, but am wondering if the Copper Metallic would be really nice too if it were fresh.

One big difference is that these trucks were painted in single stage paints back then, which lacks a lot of depth. And being a metallic paint I suspect that clear coat is almost a requirement to really bring it out.

Anyway, if y'all got some pointers or good picks of these colors in the sun I'd be much obliged.
 

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