Thanks Yota! I get way more than I give here. I haven't added the second layer, but I will likely do that since I've got a bit of a gap to fill and the fact that the sheet metal I'm using is pretty thin. I think if you used something thicker (maybe 14 gauge?) one layer is more than enough. To be honest, one layer is pretty solid, but a solid bump with a knee and it will warp I think. Two layers will take a pretty legit knock to get it to buckle. I'll keep posting pics. But that inner fender is gonna be a bitch because of the multiple bends...not sure how I'm gonna deal with that yet.Your work is amazing. Thanks for sharing the great pics. I absolutely have that task in my near future.
Did you do two layers as you mentioned?
You are doing the stuff I did on the previous project...well the project that is still in my shop. Those areas on the roof can be a real bitch, since there is actually a very slight curve in the piece in that area. If you are ever feeling bad about the rust on your rig, read this, and know that it can be so SOOO much worse. In fact looking back at some of the pictures I question my own sanity.
It's just metal, right? Fabricating wheel arches seems hard, especially considering I have no actual training and just figure this sh:t out as I go. I did create a cardboard template so that I can reconstruct the line, but it's the lip that's going to be a biotch. Right now I'm creating patches that are longer than necessary so that I can create the lip later. Then I'll create the inner fender well pieces and weld them in place prior to folding the outer fender lip. I know I need two layer for rigidity, but not sure if this is the "best" way to do it. I figure a bead roller would be best, but if a frog had wings... Any pointers are appreciated here. I've got lots of metal, so I'm fine with starting over if that's what's needed.
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You can't see it in this picture, but I have a cardboard template taped up out of the way. I tack in the patch then let the template hang down and draw the line. I know that how I'm doing it will work, but I'm curious if there is a faster/better way in lieu of fancy tools or preformed metal bits.
That sounds like a good plan. You got a thread started? I'd like to follow your progress.I have to do basically this exact same thing, and my plan is to make a cardboard template as you have done, then use the cardboard template to build a plywood form that matches the contour of the fender, and then shape the patch using a hammer to roll the lip over the plywood form. Then I'll lay the patch over the existing rusty fender, tack weld it in place, and then cut out the rotten stuff behind it, using the edge of new patch as a guide for the grinder, and welding along the cut line to fuse the patch with the solid metal on the panel (the "cut and butt" technique described in this video). Then pull the rotten stuff out from inside the quarter panel. That way, you can keep everything lined up, and you don't lose your reference points during the process.