Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb.
- Thread starter LAgallegos
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- Thread starter
- #62
Okay. Found my problem.
and it wasn't a cute girl
Tried tightening it and this is what happened. Basically it vaporized.
and it wasn't a cute girl
Tried tightening it and this is what happened. Basically it vaporized.
Okay. Found my problem.
and it wasn't a cute girl
Tried tightening it and this is what happened. Basically it vaporized.
OK...so before you went out to tighten that terminal this last time, it was just loosely on the terminal, not tightened at all?
...we would have forgiven you if it was a cute girl...but just remember, you've gotta stay focused enough to get the rig running well so you have a 60 to take her out in...!
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Eeewww... yeah I had those connectors on my truck and they SUCK DONKEY #*&@!!!! Talk to @Fourrunner about getting one of his replacement kits when you have some money, but in the meantime you really need to replace those. But if you can spare the $140 then just get Fourruners kit, SOOOOOOO much better.
You can get cheap battery terminal connectors at Advance Auto or whatever aftermarket auto parts store...for immediate fix...
Once you repair that, make sure the cables are fastened well to the battery terminals. If it still doesn't start, then check two things:
1) Fusible links (see wiring diagram below - but there are 3 and the are all in line in the positive battery cable, just off the battery terminal - with your volt meter, you should read 12V+ on the far side of each fusible link...if not, the fusible link is bad...)
2) Ignition relay - (see image below to find it) - pull it and test it as per 'Landcruiser-Chasis-Body-1980 Repair Manual' - Chapter 13 "Body Electrical"
Once you repair that, make sure the cables are fastened well to the battery terminals. If it still doesn't start, then check two things:
1) Fusible links (see wiring diagram below - but there are 3 and the are all in line in the positive battery cable, just off the battery terminal - with your volt meter, you should read 12V+ on the far side of each fusible link...if not, the fusible link is bad...)
2) Ignition relay - (see image below to find it) - pull it and test it as per 'Landcruiser-Chasis-Body-1980 Repair Manual' - Chapter 13 "Body Electrical"
Cute girls are never a problem...and certainly not with a running FJ60 for that matter...
- Thread starter
- #69
Thanks for the advice guys.
Well she turns on. But something aint right, and its too dark to see right now. So I'm gonna have to tackle it in the morning. It was sputtering and not running smoothly like it has before. I wondering if I cleaned it too well. hah...
Well she turns on. But something aint right, and its too dark to see right now. So I'm gonna have to tackle it in the morning. It was sputtering and not running smoothly like it has before. I wondering if I cleaned it too well. hah...
Alright...two steps forward and one step back...glad you got it to turn over!
Be sure to post what's up tomorrow...
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Did you take the carb completely apart? Could have possibly put the jets in backwards or something. When you get the chance, check the fuel bowl to make sure that there is adequate fuel in the carb (should be about halfway up the sight glass). From there I would start with a complete tune-up, ensure that timing is set correctly, base location for fuel mixture screw is 2 turns from complete bottom out (@FJ40Jim can confirm that) and all the sparks are in the proper sequence.
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2F carb is 4 turns from bottom to start. Then adjust for highest idle RPM/highest vac reading.
Early carbs are only 2 turns, 'cause they are not so precise.
Early carbs are only 2 turns, 'cause they are not so precise.
- Thread starter
- #73
Okay so I was messing with it a little bit this morning before class. It seems that the second barrel is just a faucet of fuel. It almost overflowed cause it was just dumping fuel constantly in it. What did I do wrong....
Or is that whats its actually supposed to do
Or is that whats its actually supposed to do
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The primary barrel is more towards the Passenger side of the vehicle. The secondary barrel is on the Driver's side of the vehicle.
And you noticed that the secondary barrel was filling with gasoline? Did you identify which port it was coming from?
When you did the rebuild, did you strip it all the way down (did you get that center bolt off - the hollow one that comes up through the bottom?), do the Berryman dip?
And what did you replace during the rebuild?
When you removed the Idle Mixture screw, what did the tip look like?
- Thread starter
- #75
Yeah it was the secondary. the main port, at the top.
I did not get the center bolt off, but I did dip everything.
ummm, I replaced gaskets, and the long stick pump thing. um idk what its called. Its attached on that arm. And I think thats basically everything.
The tip of the idle screw looked fine. Except for what I damaged on top it looked in great condition.
I did not get the center bolt off, but I did dip everything.
ummm, I replaced gaskets, and the long stick pump thing. um idk what its called. Its attached on that arm. And I think thats basically everything.
The tip of the idle screw looked fine. Except for what I damaged on top it looked in great condition.
OK, the gasoline is pouring out of the secondary...can you download the image I posted of the carb circuits earlier, identify the port it is flowing from (open Power Point, insert the image, add an arrow, select all, right click to 'Save Picture As') then reupload new image?
You said that you dipped everything, do you mean you dipped the whole carb? Including the insulator between the bottom and middle plates...assuming so because if you didn't remove that hollow bolt and separate the plates...and you dipped the lot of it...then the insulator was still on...
What about the check valves (they look like little ball bearings), did you replace those too?
On the idle mixture screw, as long as the tip is OK and you can still get a screw driver on it to insert/remove/adjust it, should be OK...
You said that you dipped everything, do you mean you dipped the whole carb? Including the insulator between the bottom and middle plates...assuming so because if you didn't remove that hollow bolt and separate the plates...and you dipped the lot of it...then the insulator was still on...
What about the check valves (they look like little ball bearings), did you replace those too?
On the idle mixture screw, as long as the tip is OK and you can still get a screw driver on it to insert/remove/adjust it, should be OK...
- Thread starter
- #77
Yes i did dip the mid insulator as well. But i watched it closely and didn't see any damage or corrosion.
Well I only saw one, and it looked fine. I blew air threw and it wasn't seized or anything.
I feel like I'm failing a test. lol
OK, #2 is the slow jet on the secondary...part of the idle circuit...so that port where the arrow is pointing and where fuel is coming out from must be coming through that slow jet.
#10 is the main jet on the secondary...and as you see in the diagram, it is delivered into the secondary barrel through the secondary venturi.
The symptom you are describing is that at idle, fuel is pouring out of the idle circuit in the secondary and actually flooding the second barrel.
The question is why is this happening???!!?
#10 is the main jet on the secondary...and as you see in the diagram, it is delivered into the secondary barrel through the secondary venturi.
The symptom you are describing is that at idle, fuel is pouring out of the idle circuit in the secondary and actually flooding the second barrel.
The question is why is this happening???!!?
BTW, do you know any of these characters? see:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/any-60ers-in-eastern-nc.816577/
Once you get this rig running, you should hook up with this crew. Johnny (he already posted on your thread here @GLTHFJ60 ) would be a good guy to know...he's an artist on these 60s...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/any-60ers-in-eastern-nc.816577/
Once you get this rig running, you should hook up with this crew. Johnny (he already posted on your thread here @GLTHFJ60 ) would be a good guy to know...he's an artist on these 60s...
Check the level of the fuel in the fuel bowl by looking at the sight glass on the front of the carb. You should see the fuel come up 1/2 way in the sight glass...
Yeah, @GLTHFJ60 if you see the move here, please, chime in. I'm just doing my best to help him think through this...
I'm beginning to wonder if there is any fuel coming out of the primary at all, and it is all being pushed through the secondary because it has no where to go...the fuel pump keeps pumping and the fuel bowl is filling up...
Yeah, @GLTHFJ60 if you see the move here, please, chime in. I'm just doing my best to help him think through this...
I'm beginning to wonder if there is any fuel coming out of the primary at all, and it is all being pushed through the secondary because it has no where to go...the fuel pump keeps pumping and the fuel bowl is filling up...
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