Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb.
- Thread starter LAgallegos
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- Thread starter
- #42
Sorry Fellas! Thanks for keeping up with me. School just started so its been a little hectic.
It sounds like there is a lot of pros and cons to both. Right now I just need the truck so I can get around town and I'm not gonna be showing her off like a new born so I'm not gonna desmog it. Maybe at a later time but desmoging sounds like more than I want to get into right now.
That being said. I got the carb off last week. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, So I'm gonna rebuild it. I've been in the process of cleaning it and should be finished(ish) as of tonight. So I might be able to put it back together and put it back on tomorrow. We'll see. I should probably do homework, but eh...
But I did have a question. I was trying to get to the Idle mixture screw and its got that dumb cap on it. Well its ON there. and Ive tried just about everything and broke a few tools in the process to get it off. and it won't come. Any ideas?? i have a picture... i might have drilled too deep. Can't really tell unless I can get it off.
Oh and, I couldn't separate the lower half of the carb from the middle section of the carb. The screw that holds i together won't budge and I'm afraid I'm gonna strip it. So I just left it. Do you think it's a necessity to get it separated and put a new gasket there(if there is one there? looked like just the spacer to me)?
It sounds like there is a lot of pros and cons to both. Right now I just need the truck so I can get around town and I'm not gonna be showing her off like a new born so I'm not gonna desmog it. Maybe at a later time but desmoging sounds like more than I want to get into right now.
That being said. I got the carb off last week. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, So I'm gonna rebuild it. I've been in the process of cleaning it and should be finished(ish) as of tonight. So I might be able to put it back together and put it back on tomorrow. We'll see. I should probably do homework, but eh...
But I did have a question. I was trying to get to the Idle mixture screw and its got that dumb cap on it. Well its ON there. and Ive tried just about everything and broke a few tools in the process to get it off. and it won't come. Any ideas?? i have a picture... i might have drilled too deep. Can't really tell unless I can get it off.
Oh and, I couldn't separate the lower half of the carb from the middle section of the carb. The screw that holds i together won't budge and I'm afraid I'm gonna strip it. So I just left it. Do you think it's a necessity to get it separated and put a new gasket there(if there is one there? looked like just the spacer to me)?
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The plug has been drilled through, and the top of the idle screw is probly a little buggered now.
To remove the plug, drill it off w/ a 29/64 bit. Since the symptom is poor idle quality, the plug and screw have to be removed to clean out the idle passage.
There is not a serviceable gasket between main body & throttle body. There is gasket material permanently bonded to the reusable Bakelite insulator.
HTH
To remove the plug, drill it off w/ a 29/64 bit. Since the symptom is poor idle quality, the plug and screw have to be removed to clean out the idle passage.
There is not a serviceable gasket between main body & throttle body. There is gasket material permanently bonded to the reusable Bakelite insulator.
HTH
Cool. Stick with it, Gallego.
The nice thing about going the 'do-it-yourself' way first is that it is low cost and you get to really learn...and when you fix it right, you get the reward.
Keep persistent and approach system by system as you are doing, using the FSM to check each system (especially the Emissions FSM).
Once you drill that cap off with the proper sized bit that Jim recommends, I would back out that Idle Mixture Screw and check it is not bent and the tip is good (no groove cut out on one side for having been sitting in one position its whole life). You should be able to order a new Idle Mixture Screw through Toyota if necessary... I think...
In order to do a proper carb rebuild, you will have to separate the insulator from the bottom plate and throttle plate, so that you can dip the large metal plates in Berryman Chem Dip overnight (see Pin_Head videos).
In order to remove those plates, you must remove that bolt (the one that goes up through the bottom and holds the plates together - it should be hollow and have a single-slotted head on it).
I ran into the same problem you have and was stripping that single-slotted head. I solved the problem by using an impact wrench and a better fitting single slot driver head for the wrench. Backed right out.
I used a Milwaukee 18V cordless 1/4 drive impact wrench and a Milwaukee single-slotted drive head (after eating up 2 cheap Black and Decker heads) from this set-up (got it at Home Depot), it's a Milwaukee 10-in-1 Square Drive Multi Bit Driver:
But if you don't have an impact wrench, maybe you can borrow one or take the carb to a shop that has an air impact wrench...but you should be able to get that bolt out!
Also, after you get the carb rebuilt and back on, you still might have a vac leak somewhere (they are hard to find)...but maybe one step at a time...
Forgot to add, once you get those carb plates apart and stripped down, and before you dip in the Berrymans, try to clean out ALL the little ports/circuits that run through the body of those plates by either/both:
1) spraying into them directly with the can of Carb cleaner and one of those plastic skinny red straw hoses (insert the tip of the red straw into the ports and BLAST away)
2) use dental floss to scrap any build up from the walls (like inside the slow jets)
THEN do the Berryman dip overnight. Might take a couple nights because you can't fill all the stuff in the can at one time...
1) spraying into them directly with the can of Carb cleaner and one of those plastic skinny red straw hoses (insert the tip of the red straw into the ports and BLAST away)
2) use dental floss to scrap any build up from the walls (like inside the slow jets)
THEN do the Berryman dip overnight. Might take a couple nights because you can't fill all the stuff in the can at one time...
Also forgot to mention, while you are at it working on the carb, you might consider doing the "Secondary Slow Cut Valve" modification. Do a search here on MUD in the 60s section for instructions on the mod...
It involves removing the mechanically actuated pump, tapping and plugging that hole in the aluminum Slow Cut Valve housing by JB welding a screw into the newly tapped threads...and so then after the mod, the fuel is metered to the Secondary by vac alone, and solves inevitable leaking from the pump...
Here is a picture of the Secondary Slow Cut Valve assembly...modeled by MUD's very own @klinetime574 carb (your carb is getting some real miles Klinetime!!!)...a true work of art in it's own right...
It involves removing the mechanically actuated pump, tapping and plugging that hole in the aluminum Slow Cut Valve housing by JB welding a screw into the newly tapped threads...and so then after the mod, the fuel is metered to the Secondary by vac alone, and solves inevitable leaking from the pump...
Here is a picture of the Secondary Slow Cut Valve assembly...modeled by MUD's very own @klinetime574 carb (your carb is getting some real miles Klinetime!!!)...a true work of art in it's own right...
I knew some decent pictures of a carb would not be frowned upon @Slow Left 
Wish I would've know about this slow cut valve mod. I may have done it. I don't have a boot on it because the original deteriorated. So it effectively deletes the valve? Good mod?
Wish I would've know about this slow cut valve mod. I may have done it. I don't have a boot on it because the original deteriorated. So it effectively deletes the valve? Good mod?
I knew some decent pictures of a carb would not be frowned upon
Wish I would've know about this slow cut valve mod. I may have done it. I don't have a boot on it because the original deteriorated. So it effectively deletes the valve? Good mod?
I want you to know, Kline, that I selected only the very best model for this exhibition...although I did notice some more... how do the French say...'risque' photos of the Klinetime carb, but settled on this one because of the lighting...it really brings out the 'intent' of the 2F carb...it speaks to the audience...in the language of utility...
But yeah, the mod is a "Jim C. Special"...you can do it with the carb installed...just be careful not to rip the little figure 8 gasket that mounts between the slow cut valve housing and the side of the carb...you'll have to reuse that gasket and they are NLA from Toyota...ask me how I know...
- Thread starter
- #49
Well I think I got everything, Hooked everything back up (all the hoses in the right places I hope!). Plug the battery back up.
Then I go to turn the key and it doesn't do anything. I double checked everything and i haven't changed anything since i took the carb off. My life sucks.
Then I go to turn the key and it doesn't do anything. I double checked everything and i haven't changed anything since i took the carb off. My life sucks.
- Thread starter
- #50
Doesn't do anything as in the starter doesn't turn over the engine. but i have power as the lights come on
Check the 12V+ contact on the starter solenoid. There is a wire with a plastic connecter that slides over that contact barb on the starter solenoid. If the contact is loose, the solenoid doesn't get power and when you turn the key, you get the ominous sound of silence... Just push it on tight and maybe bent it up or down a tad...
- Thread starter
- #53
nothing so far. Its just strange cause i literally haven't touched the truck since i took the carb out
When you turn the key in the ignition switch to ACC, does the radio work?
- Thread starter
- #55
I don't have a radio....
Classy...I like your style, Gallego...
- Thread starter
- #58
Haha thanks.
No I have not.
No I have not.
Hmm...well, I'm hesitant to suggest it, then.
Let me take a step back.
So you have reconnected the battery, and those contacts on the battery terminals are tightened down? Not just loose on there?
And when you turn the key, it doesn't make any noise at all? Nada? No click?
And your head lights work?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
What kind of voltage are you looking at? You may have enough juice to power the lights on and what not but not enough to turn the starter over.
