Getting car started after carb rebuild (2 Viewers)

[pb4ugo]

Look at the ING switch, it's marked.
Acc, on, start.

 

[65swb45]

I seem to recall that in a previous thread you had problems with the key switch and the wiring.

First of all, make sure that you have the correct Toyota wiring diagram for your model and year.
Then I'd suggest looking closer at your ignition switch wiring.....
When you start the truck (key in start position) the coil is fed directly with 12V from the key switch.
But...
As soon as you release the key, the coil is now powered via the 'On' position on the key switch, and this is fed through the ballast resistor.

If the engine cuts out a soon as you release the key, then either the key switch is not working quite as it should, or the wiring is interrupted, or the ballast resistor has died.

Most likely you have disturbed a wire somewhere near the coil.

First,

Thank you so much for tracking this and bringing perspective from the earlier post. It could be significant.

TWO wires, both black with yellow stripe exit the harness near the starter on the OPs year model. The ‘second’ wire, which looks exactly like the coil wire, is the exciter wire, which is only hot when the key is in the start position. I’ve have seen literally dozens of LCs in this timeframe make the same mistake once the original wiring has been tampered with. Since the OP is missing his igniter, it is obvious that his wiring, and more specifically the coil wiring, has been tampered with.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Hopefully pics from my stock ‘77 igniter will help. The blue wire is for the tach.

Oops, just noticed that the first pic is an older one with the Optima battery that took 21 years to die. The wire for the tach has a blue bullet connector showing. It’s the wire laying on top of the rusted condenser?

 

[Grayscale]

On a side note: Would there be any reason for a FJ40 to not have an igniter? Is that a spareable part meaning if you don’t have one just do this … “x” … ? Or is that something i should jump on right away and get ready to wire it in?

It is possible to run the distributor-points, on the negative lead of the ignition coil. A capacitor is installed on the distributor body, which isn't used with the igniter. It is how the early distributors worked. The retrofit is even mentioned in the Hayne's manual - probably the only hack / mod in there, p. 96. So, if your igniter goes out, you can keep going.

IIRC, points don't last as long when it is wired like this, so there is a definite advantage to the igniter system, or vehicles with fully electronic ignitions.

 

[Kschep]

Hahaaaaa!
Ok I tested the ignition switch - I had another steering column (OEM) sitting around because I will be switching back to OEM from this 84 4Runner one … anyways it has a different ignition switch than the one I’ve been trying to get car to run with and bam fires and works great. Ah it’s so nice to hear that carb running perfectly. Love that sound.

BUT, I’m still curious about this igniter guys, should I need to get one and install it regardless? I didn’t know it was missing until this thread. Also, (sorry) but i wanna quickly clarify - should my coil get key power upon one single turn forward of key?

Also: based on this thread, are there any suggestions of action items I should do to make my 40 better?

 

[Skreddy]

What’s the numbers on your distributor? Pics of it? Do you know if it’s points or pertronix? Igniter could’ve gone out and they converted it for a cheaper cost.

 

[Kschep]

What’s the numbers on your distributor? Pics of it? Do you know if it’s points or pertronix? Igniter could’ve gone out and they converted it for a cheaper cost.

Let me check for you …
I believe it’s points? It’s like the one in the manual … but let me get that for you - I’d like to check also.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

If you’re running points (like me), then get the igniter, as they allow the points to last a long time.

 

[45Dougal]

Hahaaaaa!
Ok I tested the ignition switch - I had another steering column (OEM) sitting around because I will be switching back to OEM from this 84 4Runner one … anyways it has a different ignition switch than the one I’ve been trying to get car to run with and bam fires and works great. Ah it’s so nice to hear that carb running perfectly. Love that sound.

BUT, I’m still curious about this igniter guys, should I need to get one and install it regardless? I didn’t know it was missing until this thread. Also, (sorry) but i wanna quickly clarify - should my coil get key power upon one single turn forward of key?

Also: based on this thread, are there any suggestions of action items I should do to make my 40 better?

Great news, well done.

First click on the key switch is only accessories (radio, cigarette lighter).
Second click is ignition live.
Third position is sprung and turns the engine.

 

[Kschep]

Great news, well done.

First click on the key switch is only accessories (radio, cigarette lighter).
Second click is ignition live.
Third position is sprung and turns the engine.

Interesting .. maybe I’m hallucinating but I swear I turn mine to 2nd position and car wants to fire and turn on.

 

[45Dougal]

It should look like this. The positions are written on it.
Anything else has been bodged to work and didn't seem to be doing the job.

 

[Kschep]

It should look like this. The positions are written on it.
Anything else has been bodged to work and didn't seem to be doing the job.

View attachment 3756413

Oh duh , .. thx

 

[Kschep]

What’s the numbers on your distributor? Pics of it? Do you know if it’s points or pertronix? Igniter could’ve gone out and they converted it for a cheaper cost.

Distributor pics…