Getting car started after carb rebuild (2 Viewers)

[Kschep]

No click when jumped and connected to positive ignition coil stud …
Touch that same jumper wire to the battery plus side instead of ignition coil and bam clicking
Tested volts to solenoid wire and nothing
Double check ground @ engine block - good
Checked continuity from coil to fuse and that’s good .. so fuse block to solenoid seems at first glance what u need to look at. Any ideas? Wires look good, no crusty old stuff. Let me take a pic of fuse block.

Looking over my coil and igniter wires and diagram and I’m not seeing a match .. first off the black wire off the igniter to coil negative side is hooked to positive side.
Which results in the car actually turning over one time. When I switch it to diagram correct negative post on coil - results are engine just turning no fire. So not sure what’s going on there. Also I see no black/yellow which is supposed to run all the way to fuse block, I see that wire hooked to coil

 

[bhsdriller]

No click when jumped and connected to positive ignition coil stud …
Touch that same jumper wire to the battery plus side instead of ignition coil and bam clicking
Tested volts to solenoid wire and nothing
Double check ground @ engine block - good
Checked continuity from coil to fuse and that’s good .. so fuse block to solenoid seems at first glance what u need to look at. Any ideas? Wires look good, no crusty old stuff. Let me take a pic of fuse block.

Looking over my coil and igniter wires and diagram and I’m not seeing a match .. first off the black wire off the igniter to coil negative side is hooked to positive side.
Which results in the car actually turning over one time. When I switch it to diagram correct negative post on coil - results are engine just turning no fire. So not sure what’s going on there. Also I see no black/yellow which is supposed to run all the way to fuse block, I see that wire hooked to coil

Run the solenoid straight to the battery as you did to test and try to start/run it If everything's good then you just need a 12V keyed ignition source for the solenoid but for now directly to the battery would work.

Don't forget to unplug it after testing.

 

[Skreddy]

“No click when jumped and connected to positive ignition coil stud …”

Just verifying you turned the key on when testing this.

 

[Kschep]

“No click when jumped and connected to positive ignition coil stud …”

Just verifying you turned the key on when testing this.

Yes I did, thank you for verifying

 

[Kschep]

Run the solenoid straight to the battery as you did to test and try to start/run it If everything's good then you just need a 12V keyed ignition source for the solenoid but for now directly to the battery would work.

Don't forget to unplug it after testing.

I had sparks when I connected the jump wire to battery plus side. That scares me with regards to hooking up jump wire to solenoid from battery and then trying to start. That won’t cause any undesired issues?

 

[Grayscale]

A jump wire should have an inline fuse on it, away from the battery, just to be safe. It might spark, you could use a switch, or hook it up on the battery, then the carb. kinda like jump-starting, positive, positive, negative, and somewhere away from the battery on the chassis or engine.

 

[bhsdriller]

I had sparks when I connected the jump wire to battery plus side. That scares me with regards to hooking up jump wire to solenoid from battery and then trying to start. That won’t cause any undesired issues?

Yes it's fine unless something else is going on. I actually ran mine like that for a while before I got it fixed back to normal.

Would just plug the solenoid in each time I drove it and unplugged it afterward.

 

[CRZR45]

Unhook the battery and get emery cloth or fine sand paper and clean all fuse ends and posts they set into. I have had weak connections in fuse blocks before that caused trouble. Once fuse block has fully cleaned connections for fuses and the wires that come off the Philips screws you can rule that out. My2c

 

[Pighead]

You could just disable the solenoid and forget about it.

 

[Kschep]

Ok car fires and stays on with solenoid hooked/jumped to battery +
Didn’t wanna turn off when I took the key out though - lol - so I had to dis-attach that jump wire to get the engine to cut off.

So that means my solenoid is not getting key power? And I think connection is all good as I rewired previously I just don’t have recollection of this specifically …
But lemme run down the tests:
I have continuity from coil / starter to fuse block & from fuse block to solenoid … voltage tests -
battery good
@ coil (key on) - nothing
voltage at fuse block (key on) #1-3 good , #4-7 nothing , #8 good
Solenoid - nothing
Starter - main battery line - good
other 2 wires from coil - nothing

So, I guess I’m not getting key-on power to my coil? Which leads to fuse block engine fuse nothing, which leads to solenoid line nothing…I don’t know why it’s not getting power. And I also don’t know why the car wanted to run previously on the same set up … just with a lot of choke.

I am wondering where I go next with this? Or what does this point to?

 

[Kschep]

Some pics

 

[Kschep]

New development - coil does get key on power I just have to turn the key past the first click and actually try to turn the engine - then it shows volts on the meter.
I tried the same with the solenoid wire and that did not get volts either way first click or full turn.
So I’d like to figure out what’s going on .. I have continuity through fuse block from coil and starter and also to solenoid.
But my solution is to just install the new 2 wire and hook to positive coil stud and have a in-line fuse and ground it to something nearby. Does that sound ok?

 

[45Dougal]

I don't understand your interest in a 2 wire solenoid.
The one that you have already has 2 wires - the positive is the wire you can see, the negative wire is connected internally to the metal solenoid casing (which in turn is connected to the engine and the battery negative post).

It sounds like your fuse box is a bit sketchy, and maybe your ignition switch.

Disconnect the battery and clean up at the fuse and contacts, unplug the ignition switch connector and clean it up, and test for volts again.

Maybe get a simple book on auto electrics to get you started. It's not hard, but you can easily burn your truck if you start "splicing a ground wire" into a positive feed.

 

[Kschep]

Well my interest is because i can’t get my solenoid to ground through the carb body / battery neg post … so I’m circumventing that by just installing one that I can ground independently while I figure out what’s going on with my power.

I’m not getting key on power to solenoid … I have continuity through and through to solenoid. Just trying to figure out where to go next with figuring out where the fault is in the power flow to the solenoid.

 

[45Dougal]

Well my interest is because i can’t get my solenoid to ground through the carb body / battery neg post … so I’m circumventing that by just installing one that I can ground independently while I figure out what’s going on with my power.

I’m not getting key on power to solenoid … I have continuity through and through to solenoid. Just trying to figure out where to go next with figuring out where the fault is in the power flow to the solenoid.

If I understood correctly from your previous post, you connected the solenoid wire directly to the positive battery terminal and it clicked. This confirmed that it is correctly grounded through the engine.

Your problem is not therefore the ground, but rather the missing/ inadequate switched positive feed from the key, although if your truck is firing then you must be getting power to the coil.

 

[Kschep]

If I understood correctly from your previous post, you connected the solenoid wire directly to the positive battery terminal and it clicked. This confirmed that it is correctly grounded through the engine.

Your problem is not therefore the ground, but rather the missing/ inadequate switched positive feed from the key, although if your truck is firing then you must be getting power to the coil.

Ok I understand what you’re saying. And yes my coil is getting power. Previously when I tested it I put the key forward one turn and tested. No volts. Then i thought i wonder if it gets volts if i turn the key the whole way and it did. I was under the impression that upon one click forward the solenoid should click and the coil should have volts. Is that incorrect?

 

[45Dougal]

The first position on the key switch is ACC (accessories) which will get power to a few things like the radio and cigarette lighter.
The second position is IGN which gets power to pretty much everything else (including the ignition coil and solenoid).

Apart from that, a lot of things have power all the time, like brake lights and hazards.

 

[Kschep]

The first position on the key switch is ACC (accessories) which will get power to a few things like the radio and cigarette lighter.
The second position is IGN which gets power to pretty much everything else (including the ignition coil and solenoid).

Apart from that, a lot of things have power all the time, like brake lights and hazards.

Okay thank you for that .. gaming myself up constantly on this forum. Love it.
Ok so I’m finding the fault in the wiring and I see a wire going from my positive coil stud to distributor and according to diagram that’s not right. It showing a red wire from my igniter to distributor that’s not there, instead there seems to be a wire hooked to my positive coil stud to the distributor. I have only 2 wires coming off my igniter instead of the 4 it shows on diagram.
Here are some pics to show you what I’m looking at. Maybe someone could show me their igniter/coil set-up.

 

[Kschep]

Sorry for messiness but I tried to write in blue what’s missing or what I don’t know about and what’s checked off

 

[Grayscale]

I don't see the igniter, just the ballast resistor and coil.