Getting car started after carb rebuild (3 Viewers)

[Kschep]

Had my carb off and sent to Jim C for rebuild and just got it back a week ago. Anyways I’m just reinstalling it and obviously it’s bone dry. I’m curious what I should do to prime and start the car? I have starter fluid spray that I was thinking of using but I’m not sure how I get the fuel to start a flowing other than pumping the gas pedal but that seems to not do too much? Or should I just keep pumping

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Cam runs the pump, if your super worried you can pull plugs, disconnect dist /coil wire and turn over till gas comes out. Personally. I'd just crank till some gas shows in float, then pump pedal twice, hit the key again and it should fire up.

 

[Skreddy]

Put some gas in a plastic water bottle and poke a hole in the lid, like 1/16” or so. You can then squirt fuel into the bowl vents on top of the carb and watch in the sight window until it gets half full or so. Should be able to run off that and the fuel pump will catch up before carb runs dry.

 

[charliemeyer007]

+1 for pull the plugs and whirl it over until it builds oil pressure

 

[65swb45]

I use @Skreddy method of manually filling the bowl through the vent tubes. Pretty much instant gratification.

 

[Kschep]

Ok so I went with squirting some fuel into the carb bowl until it was halfway in the window and have now tried to start it like 12-15 times and nothing. It turns right away but only turns once and fizzles off. I give it tons of gas pedal. But still just wants to turn once.
I’ll just keep trying?

 

[Skreddy]

By turning, do you mean the starter cranks over or it tries to fire off?

Properly tuned (which I’ve heard a Jim C carb is), you shouldn’t need to give it a ton of gas. More like press once and release, choke on and crank starter without touching pedal again.

 

[CRZR45]

How’s your battery? Sounds like it want to turn over a couple times then then won't? Make sure battery is fully charged

 

[Kschep]

Battery is good
By turning once I mean it fires and rumbles once and then shuts off right away bec there’s no fuel flow yet. Or at least that’s the sound to my ears when it doesn’t wanna keep turning.
I was just surprised that after filling the carb bowl halfway it did wanna go based off that but it totally sounds like there just isn’t fuel flow yet from the pump.
I suppose I’ll keep trying and not worry about so much gas pedal that’s just a normal go to instinct of mine pre-carb rebuild to get mine going. I forget I shouldn’t have to do that now, thank you.

 

[Skreddy]

Battery is good
By turning once I mean it fires and rumbles once and then shuts off right away bec there’s no fuel flow yet. Or at least that’s the sound to my ears when it doesn’t wanna keep turning.
I was just surprised that after filling the carb bowl halfway it did wanna go based off that but it totally sounds like there just isn’t fuel flow yet from the pump.
I suppose I’ll keep trying and not worry about so much gas pedal that’s just a normal go to instinct of mine pre-carb rebuild to get mine going. I forget I shouldn’t have to do that now, thank you.

Are you using any choke? Is your fuel cutoff solenoid hooked up and working?
You could try turning the curb idle screw in 1/2 turn at a time until it starts and you can start fine tuning.

If you filled the bowl halfway to the sight glass, it doesn’t matter if you didn’t even have a fuel pump. The vacuum will suck the fuel it needs from the carb bowl, the fuel pump is just replenishing the carb bowl as needed. Once it fires off and is idling, it won’t drain the fuel super quick and even a weak fuel pump will catch up in plenty of time.

 

[65swb45]

Solenoid.

 

[Kschep]

Ok ya I need to double check this solenoid even though it was new from toyotamatt and hasn’t had too much drive time on it at all. But there was an issue with it grounding because the carb I have it’s supposed to ground through the base but that didn’t necessarily seem to be happening. Even such - I was able to get my car running in the past before taking carb off to send to Jim. But yes it’s a single wire that’s supposed to ground through the carb and I don’t think that’s happening. Let me check and see if it clicks when I turn the key and if it doesn’t then I need to quickly install a separate ground wire for it.

 

[Kschep]

Ok so no solenoid clicking on first turn of key
After saying I would just make a ground connection - I don’t think I can off a single wire solenoid. So my only option is to purchase a double wire solenoid?
I’m curious why the car would start previously to this A and then B when I mentioned to him no clicking he said it’s a single wire solenoid that grounds through the bottom of carb where it connects to the intake. He also mentioned that my spacer on my carb was flipped and that’s probably why the solenoid wasn’t grounding for me.
Now that I have it back on I realize that’s not the case and I need to get a solenoid that can independently ground.?

 

[65swb45]

KISS. Run a jump wire from the solenoid to the positive terminal of the coil and see what happens. This is what I did when we were diagnosing @airon23 carb.

 

[Kschep]

good idea to test, thank you.
And that’s because the coil is grounded, which grounds the power being fed to the solenoid from jumper line?
Ok so I’ll cut the solenoid wire and attach it to jump wire from coil. Correct?
Ok, I’ll see what happens.

 

[Kschep]

Curious … could I cut the single wire coming off solenoid and splice in a ground wire off that? Or does the ground wire need to come out back of solenoid independently to ground? I’m trying to think…

 

[65swb45]

+ side of coil = guaranteed key hot, which is what the harness is supposed to be providing. The carb does ground itself.
Probably twenty years ago, I remember @ Mark W suggesting cutting the ground wire on the two-wire solenoid and attaching the cut ground wire to one of the air horn screws. This immediately struck me with it's elegant simplicity. And the suggestion would have no merit if the carburetor was not capable of providing a ground.

 

[Skreddy]

Curious … could I cut the single wire coming off solenoid and splice in a ground wire off that? Or does the ground wire need to come out back of solenoid independently to ground? I’m trying to think…

You need power going INTO that single wire and grounding through the carb. If you apply a jumper from battery + to the solenoid wire and there’s no “click”; then add a jumper from upper carb body to battery - . If still no “click, your solenoid is bad.

Jumping from coil + as @65swb45 is saying does the same but adds the key to the equation. His is a safer way to try for running because when you turn the key off it cuts the idle fuel. But you can jump straight to the battery for “click” testing purposes.

If you ground that wire going into the carb, it does nothing.

 

[Kschep]

+ side of coil = guaranteed key hot, which is what the harness is supposed to be providing. The carb does ground itself.
Probably twenty years ago, I remember @ Mark W suggesting cutting the ground wire on the two-wire solenoid and attaching the cut ground wire to one of the air horn screws. This immediately struck me with it's elegant simplicity. And the suggestion would have no merit if the carburetor was not capable of providing a ground.

So that was my thought - just independently ground one of the wires on the dual wire. But mine is single and I was curious if I could convert it to dual by splicing in a ground wire. I mean I could just order one which I am but I’m thinking of quick fix. I have the electrical tools. But I wasn’t sure if that’s how it worked or if it needs a separate wire altogether for a ground. Would make sense.
Ah I see what skreddy wrote…ok then I’ll test through coil and order a dual wire solenoid.

 

[77mustard40]

So that was my thought - just independently ground one of the wires on the dual wire. But mine is single and I was curious if I could convert it to dual by splicing in a ground wire. I mean I could just order one which I am but I’m thinking of quick fix. I have the electrical tools. But I wasn’t sure if that’s how it worked or if it needs a separate wire altogether for a ground. Would make sense.
Ah I see what skreddy wrote…ok then I’ll test through coil and order a dual wire solenoid.

I don't think you need the later model two wire solenoid, you need to verify that the one you have is getting keyed 12V to see if its working. If you can't get it to click with 12V supplied, then you are not getting fuel through the idle circuit. You can OHM out the carb body to the engine to make sure you have a good ground. Speaking of ground, check your ground strap that connects the engine block to the battery to make sure its solid and not lose.