Gear noise after locker install (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

Zuk--If you are still reading:

1-Props. I read almost every install on your page. That's quite a body of work.


2-What do you make of the new ARB design where the air tube is routed over the ring gear? That looks like a potential failure point to me. Back 8 years ago when I got my first set of ARBs, the tube was set up too close to the gear and got worn through in just a few miles. I'd be curious to know how to route it safely?

 

[Malahki]

Here is a pic provided by an ARB tech to another mud member, showing the proper routing of the copper line. It is important to keep it up high where it crosses over the ring gear in order to avoid it rubbing on the diff housing. Especially in the event the housing gets banged and dented.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

Dont sweat the RD124, allthough the 124 is designated a semi-float it works for full float too. In my opinion arb would be smart to only offer the semi float since it works for both and would require less part numbers. The reason they dont is that Fullfloat is more popular, at least outside N. america. The s/f having 3 pinion gears is a non-issue. I have never seen one fail, in fact some of the arb destructive testing videos use a 3 pinion unit and the axle still fails sooner than the locker. So although your last shop screwed up the installation, I dont think there is any need to be upset by having an rd124 rear.

OK, I went to the border today and picked up the diff that Zuk rebuilt (left) and a "matching" brand new complete 3rd member with ARB locker and 4.56 gears for the front (right), purchased from JT's Diffs.

After unpacking them both and getting them on the bench I was immediately struck by how different the two lockers are. After talking to several people I contacted Nills at ARB tech department.

The new diff (right) from JT's contains an ARB-RD142 which is the correct unit and the latest and greatest upgraded version for the front toyota 9.5" application and/or the rear Full Floater toyota 9.5" application, as in my Landcruiser.

The old diff (left) that I have been having all of the problems with contains an ARB-RD124 locker. This unit is for the semi floating rear diff application. I have a full floating rear. In the words of Nills (ARB tech) the RD-124 will work in the front or rear full floater diff but I should have never been sold it to began with. The semi floater design uses only 3 instead of 4 spider gears, in order to accommodate the installation of the c-clips on the semi floater axles. Over all the RD-124 is not as strong as the RD-142 and the RD-124 is an old design that will be replaced in the next month or so by the new upgraded version RD-153.

So in other words, just to add insult to injury, not only did this shop screw up the diff rebuild and ARB installation 3 times and destroy my ring and pinion. They also sold me the wrong locker for my application. Although it will work it is an inferior design, weaker and less desirable.

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Zuk--If you are still reading:

1-Props. I read almost every install on your page. That's quite a body of work.


2-What do you make of the new ARB design where the air tube is routed over the ring gear? That looks like a potential failure point to me. Back 8 years ago when I got my first set of ARBs, the tube was set up too close to the gear and got worn through in just a few miles. I'd be curious to know how to route it safely?

It means that the routing is even more important to get it right....also, when the 3rd is being loaded into the axle housing, caution has to be used to not bang/ding/distort the copper tube.

I agree with ringpinion.biz in that the 3 pinion strength is a non-issue. The FF design looks cool and sleek....but it's all concealed once it goes in the housing.

 

[Malahki]

Thanks guys, that makes me feel better. On the other hand if the full floater design is even 1% stronger I should have it, considering I have 100% more money into that unit.

On a positive note, I have two well built lockers sitting on the bench waiting to be installed tomorrow. I can't say enough good things about Zuk or JT's diffs. Both are great to deal with and provide quality service/product. Not to mention the write up that Zuk is doing for his website is unbelievably thorough.

One last question: Which locker should I put front/rear?? I am leaning towards the RD142 in the rear as it will see more use. Or is it truly a non issue and I should just flip a coin?

 

[gearinstalls.com]

Your choice BJ71....sounds like a good idea to put the FF in the rear though.

Your link with 101 pics is on my webpage now. It's a good one to put online. Thanks Preston
Toyota gear install

 

[pradocruzer]

Great addition to the long list of gear installs.
Thanks for the great details and pride put into your builds. Keep up the good work. I love to see professionals at work who actually give a ****.

Take care.

 

[Malahki]

I talked to the shop that did the original install. Sent them the link to Zuke's rebuild. Hopefully they will acknowledge their mistake's and make an effort to do right by me. I will keep you posted.

 

[Malahki]

This thread has finally come to a happy ending. The shop acknowledged their mistake. In fairness, they contracted the work out to a gear "specialist", so they were caught in the middle. But in the end they are an honorable company and took full responsibility for the sloppy work and credited me back all the additional labour and shipping expenses I occurred. I am happy to do business with them in the future based on that.

The write up Zuk did was key to making this all happen and I am sure it will also be used when the shop goes back to their gear "specialist". You just can't argue with that kind of documentation.

Cheers ZUK

 

[gearinstalls.com]

 

[Malahki]

After a very busy winter at work I finally had the time to re install the 3rd's back into the housings. Some tips on break in procedure would be appreciated.

Specifically what is the best way to break in the front?

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

BREAK IN

BREAK-IN PROCEDURE: (IMPORTANT!!!) In order to prevent damage to the differential it is essential
to follow break in procedure following installation of a new ring & pinion. New Ring & Pinions will
generate more heat initially after installation and can cause gear oil to break down, leading to
premature failure. On your first drive, stop after the first 15 or 20 miles you and let the differential
cool for 20-25 minutes before proceeding. Drive conservatively for the first 500 miles following
installation (avoid hard acceleration & towing). After completing standard break-in, tow for very
short distances (less than 15 miles) and let the differential cool before continuing during the first 45
towing miles. Change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles or
phosphorus coating that has come from the new ring & pinion.
Premature overloading/overheating will cause gear oil to breakdown, and may result in parts
failure.
Home - Nitro Gear & Axle


the front is not really feasibly the same. Just take it easy at first, and use your best judgement. No need to run on dry pavement in 4wd or anything.

 

[Malahki]

Thanks Ringpinionbiz, the third I purchased from JT's was installed in the back and has about 400km on it now. I have been following the Nitro break in instructions and the diff is quite and smooth.

I was just a little unsure about the front. I didn't like the idea of running 4hi for all those miles as others have suggested.

What about locking in the hubs and running in 2Hi around town? On acceleration it would be pushing the axle and working the coast side and on deceleration it would drag on the front axle working the drive side of the gear.

 

[pradocruzer]

I never liked the sound and vibration of the old gear driven t case at high speeds with only the hubs locked (each to their own). There should be no need for a reason to wheel the hell out of your cruiser, but if you need one, honey I need to break in the new gears is bullet proof and true. Drive it and enjoy. Checking for heat on the front diff is necessary and if all is well do soft wheeling till time and kilometers have past, change the oil and you will be fine.

Take care.