Gap on rear hatch and tail gate (1 Viewer)

[american outlaw]

Hey,

I've got a gap that prevents my hatch from locking in place. And when measuring the gap the tailgates sits in it has about an inch variance from top to bottom.

Any suggestions on fixing this? Or do I need to bite the bullet and go to a body shop?

 

[bikersmurf]

I’d guess that the quarter panel is rusted and the rear crossmember is rotted away (at least on that side). Short term you can probably pull it across with a winch (or similar) or push it across with a High Lift jack. But, unless there’s something to support it, it’ll sag again.

I’d buy a mig welder and a grinder and learn how to fix it. After watching a few videos and some practice you’ll be welding like a pro… well good enough to repair your old tractor.

 

[pb4ugo]

What @bikersmurf said. It appears someone has added a 2nd layer of sheetmetal to cover the rotten 1/4 panels . Looking at your pics from another thread your 1/4 panels are not square anymore and the rear opening is wider at the top than the bottom. This has spread the hardtop opening wider at the bottom, so the hatch latches don't make contact.

 

[american outlaw]

2 owners ago extended the wheel base and apparently cut all the fenders completely off for more flex.

Then I think the previous owner built the body panel and attached it to the tub

The original floors seem to be under the diamond plate and aren't rusted gone. They just added the diamond plate for the rollcage to tie too.

I was thinking about winching it and "bending the metal" back into place. But wasn't sure if that would just buckle and make it worse

 

[Mr. Green]

Appears to be a (lack of) sill problem in nature also. The seams parallel to vehicle will bend if you pull it back to spec but would need to reset the perpendicular pieces and reinforce I would think. I just fixed this on my tub over the last year or so but after blasting which really revealed the issues. Sags outward without proper structure.

 

[Mark Jennings]

On the early FJ40, with the spare tire rack hinge mounted to the right body tub, especially with the larger, heavier tires (than stock), actually bends that rear corner out. I used a ‘porta power’ to pull mine back in before welding in a new C channel and sill plate. We pulled on it for several days to get the door frame 90 degrees to the sill.

Yours was probably tweaked years ago, when the rigs were just ‘another used truck’.

Bee Good, good luck with your project.

 

[rlong]

Just drive it, and enjoy it, until you’re ready to spend too much money on it and replace quarter panels.. back half.. or?

 

[Living in the Past]

Sill should be one continuous C shape piece that wraps around the corners. The hard tops sides are weighting the sides down pushing them out. The way to fix it is removed the top and replace the rear sill making sure the opening is square when you install the rear sill.

 

[american outlaw]

Just drive it, and enjoy it, until you’re ready to spend too much money on it and replace quarter panels.. back half.. or?

The problem is I wanna put the barn doors I found at my dad's house on it vs the home made tailgate.

Gotta winch that bad boy closed. For the aesthetics

 

[pb4ugo]

A ratchet strap going side to side ought a do the trick.