galvanizing vs sandblast and POR-15

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Big_Wheel

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I've budgetted enough money to go either route as both are ging to cost pretty much the same.

acid dip and hot dip galvanized: $0.49 per pound plus travel and acid dip ~ estimated $500

sandblasting: $120.00 an hour with an estimated time of 2.0 hours

POR-15: $200.00 for paint and all the prep products with shipping.

Soooo galvanizing is 500.00 with no coating afterwards and sandblasting and POR-15 is 440.00.

Which route is best? Is it worth galvanizing and then spending more to paint over to galvanizing?
 
If you are going to keep this Cruiser long term then galvanize it. The acid dip will get into ALL the nooks and crannies as will the galvanizing, no way to really do that with POR-15.

A galvanized coating is also self healing. If you elect to paint over it, then the frame will out last you!

Also, do a search on the topic, there are a few things to be aware of...
 
painting over galvanized metal

Just google painting over galvanized metal it takes some special preparation and materials
 
I have never understood why some will spend this kind of $$ on a frame but to each their own. I can think of 10,000 other places to spend that kind of $$ with more benefit of use. If you live in a climate where they throw salt on the roads in the winter there are going to be a lot more rust problems show up before a frame rusts through. I have seen used frames offered on this forum with VIN & title for less than either of your options.

A wire brush, a toilet brush, a 2" brush, 2 quarts of black Rustoleum and a day of getting dirty are both effective and inexpensive.
 
I like the idea of painting. If I need to weld on the frame then removing the paint is easy. If the frame were galvanised the you need to grind the coating off then, weld. Then what do you do to the exposed area? Also, the fumes from welding HDG can kill. Isn't there a possibilty of fitment issues because of the thickness of HDG coating?
 
Rust Haters Unite!

dgangle said:
"I have never understood why some will spend this kind of $$ on a frame but to each their own."



Yeah I know I don't know why I spent a fortune on rust bullet and por and worked for weeks and weeks scraping and sanding and wheeling to clean steel. I'ts kinda like I am being influenced by some kinda weird Cruiser Cult!:p:D:D:D


Having said that there are more pragmatic types who find easier, cheaper solutions that do work
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I'm all about going overboard and being anal. Just not with a frame. Maybe if I were doing an absolute original restoration, which will never happen. It's like gold-plating and anvil. Yea, it will never rust, looks really cool, provides you with bragging rights with your freinds, you'll be one of the only people around whose done/has it and it doesn't really hurt anything. If I were looking at buying a truck that the frame had been HDG'd and I wanted to modify which involved welding, I would pass. Causes more potential future problems than imediate issues it resolves. Unecessary overkill but again, to each their own.

HDG is a valuable process that is necessary for many applications but the process, like chrome plating, involves the use of extremely hazardous materials that historically the plant sites become Superfund Hazardous Waste Sites. Read a while here if you are interested. superfund galvanizing - Google Search
I'm no tree hugger but I have spend a lot of time in these facilities both during their operation and after/the clean up by the Federal Government. Do you live in or near any of these cities? Then you have one in your backyard. Hot-Dip Galvanizing Locations - member locations, kettle sizes & telephone
 
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Acid is awesome. Galvanize makes it last for decades...

and if you are gonna blast, use sodium carbonate, etc... not sand. Sodium Carb dissolves away.

POR after galvanizing is a great idea, as is powder coating. Problem with powder coating is it chips and then touch-up never matches. POR can be touched up infinitely.
 
When I did my frame I rented a 5000 or 6000 psi high pressure sprayer. It peeled off just about everything you wanted gone, and there was no cleanup.
 
dgangle said:
It's like gold-plating and anvil.
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I gold plated my anvil ;), but it only cost me 250 dollars.

For 250 dollars and ZERO effort to get a frame that will never rust was worth it for me. I spent a few dollars more for Rustoleum 2 part primer and Chassis Black topcoat. Definitely make sure all of your welding plans are done on the frame prior to galvanizing. On second thought, I guess it was not zero effort because I did have to chase all of the bolt holes with a tap after galvanizing.
 
I would not galvanised on old rusty steel. Brand new steel ok, but not rusted. Instead of rusting from inside out it will rust inside to inside, possibly making thing worse. Acid dip will not brind you frame steel back to new. If you decide to galvanize it, paint it over.
 
eleblanc said:
I would not galvanised on old rusty steel. Brand new steel ok, but not rusted. Instead of rusting from inside out it will rust inside to inside, possibly making thing worse. Acid dip will not brind you frame steel back to new. If you decide to galvanize it, paint it over.
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By these statement you have unequivocally proven you have no understanding of the hot dip galvanizing process whatsoever. The only thing a reduced cross section of base material will result in is a shortened usefull lifespan. Another common misconcetion some have is that galvanized stell will 'last forever'. Longer but not indefinite.

Metalplate Galvanizing - The Hot Dip Galvanizing Process
Metalplate Galvanizing - The Hot Dip Galvanized Coating
 
Gold plating an anvil

Gold plating an anvil ha ha I like that!

I have to admit you hit the nail on the head with that, it feels like that's pretty much what I am doing!

But it is the process I enjoy and the finished product--as much or more than the utility of the vehicle itself!;p
 
I just called South Atlantic Galvanizing in NC today to reconfirm pricing they gave me awhile ago, they told me .55 cents per pound and that it still needs to be sandblasted first before they acid dip and galvanize. Cany wait to do it!

R
 
dgangle said:
By these statement you have unequivocally proven you have no understanding of the hot dip galvanizing process whatsoever. The only thing a reduced cross section of base material will result in is a shortened usefull lifespan. Another common misconcetion some have is that galvanized stell will 'last forever'. Longer but not indefinite.

Metalplate Galvanizing - The Hot Dip Galvanizing Process
Metalplate Galvanizing - The Hot Dip Galvanized Coating
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You did not understand what i said. i don't give s*** about reduce or not cross section of member. What i am saying is that i would not galvanize steel that has been exposed to heavy rust, even if you grind it to death until 1/16" wide section of metal is left. I would personnaly not do it, that is my choice.
 
eleblanc said:
... that is my choice.
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No problem. I must have misunderstood your point. But galvanized steel will not rust from inside out. Period. Once galvanized, there is a metalurigical bond between the zinc and steel that in subsequant oxidation cycles will sacrifice the outermost layer first.

eleblanc said:
I would not galvanised on old rusty steel...
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Agreed, BUT.....steel oxidizes instantly during the rolling process. Scale is removed with water during the hot rolling process. Oxidation is present from the moment it is formed.

eleblanc said:
...Acid dip will not brind you frame steel back to new...
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Agreed. Never said it would.

It is your perogative and I respect your right to do as you wish. No personal attach but my reasoning stands. Please pull through.
 
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dgangle,

Sure galvanizing a frame is a good thing do to. But have you ever seen, In the harsh winter we have (well i have) what happen with huge amount of salt?

have you ever seen, sea containers made out of galvanized steel? Have you ever seen parts on a car from a manufacturer straight galvanize? There always painted.

Anyhow for a high voltage line towers that never gets a dent, fine.

I design alot of acoustical enclosure for large equipment such as genset, blower, mutlistage blower, compressor... Most are galvanized and painted. Some customer choose only galvanize when in high average temperture were they do not use salt or calcium

If i have time tomorrow i'll post up picture of what happens when galvanization meet salt..even on brand new galvanized steel, pretty hugly.

I guess the region you live has alot to do on this decision; to paint or to galv..

dgangle said:
No problem. I must have misunderstood your point. But galvanized steel will not rust from inside out. Period. Once galvanized, there is a metalurigical bond between the zinc and steel that in subsequant oxidation cycles will sacrifice the outermost layer first.


Agreed, BUT.....steel oxidizes instantly during the rolling process. Scale is removed with water during the hot rolling process. Oxidation is present from the moment it is formed.


Agreed. Never said it would.

It is your perogative and I respect your right to do as you wish. No personal attach but my reasoning stands. Please pull through.
Click to expand...
 
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