FZJ80 Suspension Removal/Installation (1 Viewer)

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SF,CA
Happy Sunday-

I want to return my 93 FZJ80, to its stock height.

The PO made the current modifications to the LC (I'm going off of the receipts for the lift) which are; Bridgestone KO AT 285/75/16 and a 2" OME lift (555 tie rod ends, caster correction, Nitro charger shocks 60018 front and rear 60020 and a steering dampener).

Looking to swap the current tires with 275/70/16 and install OME stock height replacement suspension. I'm in no rush to start this project as I hope to wear down the larger tires first as I hate to change perfectly good tires

From previous threads it looks like I can do the job myself, although those threads are for installing a lift not removing a lift so removing the larger springs may be more difficult. Casters, I'm guessing may need to be taken in to a shop to be pressed. The lift was put in last year, so hopefully the bolts will not be too much of a problem. ( I noticed the front driver's side shock bolt is conveniently located under the brakes and some videos advocate for removing the entire rear shock support bracket(s) rather than the shock itself.

I have a couple questions:
Can I keep the OME steering dampener that was installed with the lift or do I need to replace it as well.
Do I need to replace the caster with a stock height caster?
Do you think I can keep the 33's on with the stock height (at least for a short period of time).

As always, thank you LC community--Dan
 
Steering stabilizer has nothing to do with lift. You can keep that one or go OEM.

OME caster correction is garbage poly bushings. Definitely remove those. Just need to go back to OEM bushings

Yes you can keep those tires for street use. Flexing will cause them to rub Offroad though.
 
Steering stabilizer has nothing to do with lift. You can keep that one or go OEM.

OME caster correction is garbage poly bushings. Definitely remove those. Just need to go back to OEM bushings

Yes you can keep those tires for street use. Flexing will cause them to rub Offroad though.
Thank you. I will order up the bushings. I don't take it off road, so that is good to know as well.
 
Thank you. I will order up the bushings. I don't take it off road, so that is good to know as well.
Toyota shocks are surprisingly cheap. I don’t know about springs but don’t bother with used Toyota springs. They are all old, sagging and s***ty.
 
Toyota shocks are surprisingly cheap. I don’t know about springs but don’t bother with used Toyota springs. They are all old, sagging and s***ty.
I was thinking the OME stock height but I’m open to suggestions.
 
Original Toyota spring/shocks are constantly overlooked because people want an “upgrade”.
And for springs? Are you thinking OEM as well? Bilstein seems a popular alternative for shocks.
Thanks-Dan
 
I just replaced my oem shocks with new oem. They ride very nice and are cheap from the dealer at $50 each. You will remove the rear shock with the bracket in place with the two bolts. The front shock bolt under the brake res. can be accessed with extensions and/or swivel while holding the shock body with clamps or vise grips. Compress the shocks to make the install easier. I don't think Toyota still sells the oem springs, but OME has a stock height spring.
 
Steering stabilizer has nothing to do with lift. You can keep that one or go OEM.

OME caster correction is garbage poly bushings. Definitely remove those. Just need to go back to OEM bushings

Yes you can keep those tires for street use. Flexing will cause them to rub Offroad though.
Novice question. How many bushings do I need? 4 or 6.
 
I just replaced my oem shocks with new oem. They ride very nice and are cheap from the dealer at $50 each. You will remove the rear shock with the bracket in place with the two bolts. The front shock bolt under the brake res. can be accessed with extensions and/or swivel while holding the shock body with clamps or vise grips. Compress the shocks to make the install easier. I don't think Toyota still sells the oem springs, but OME has a stock height spring.
I called Toyota in San Francisco and was quoted $700+ for shocks and bushings (not including springs). I ordered over the internet from Mc Gregor Toyota and the total was $330. Also I was planning on doing this old school style, using a jack and stand one side at a time. Do I need spring compressors as well?
 
I called Toyota in San Francisco and was quoted $700+ for shocks and bushings (not including springs). I ordered over the internet from Mc Gregor Toyota and the total was $330. Also I was planning on doing this old school style, using a jack and stand one side at a time. Do I need spring compressors as well?
No, don't need a spring compressor
 
I called Toyota in San Francisco and was quoted $700+ for shocks and bushings (not including springs). I ordered over the internet from Mc Gregor Toyota and the total was $330. Also I was planning on doing this old school style, using a jack and stand one side at a time. Do I need spring compressors as well?
Thanks, and you were right, Toyota doesn't sell springs anymore, (actually, only rear springs are still available.)
 
I was thinking the OME stock height but I’m open to suggestions.
Old Man Emu "stock height" and Toyota shocks are the way to go for your application.
 
Old Man Emu "stock height" and Toyota shocks are the way to go for your application.
Preparing for this job. Will the front wheels turn with the trans in park and the rear elevated? I don't think it should so I don't need to block the block the front tires when working on the rear axel.
 
Preparing for this job. Will the front wheels turn with the trans in park and the rear elevated? I don't think it should so I don't need to block the block the front tires when working on the rear axel.

They shouldn't turn side to side if you lock the steering wheel. They shouldn't roll forward or backward more than an inch or so but I would block anyway.
 
Will the front wheels turn with the trans in park and the rear elevated?
Yes, if the center diff isn't locked before hand, either axle can spin independently of the other when the one is on the ground and the other isn't, in any gear including park.
Always chock wheels when 1 or more leaves the ground. Cheap insurance when banging on big wrenches turning rusted bolts. Truck moves around alot more than the person working on it perceives.
 
You have to pull the control arms to press in the new bushing, if your going that far you should replace the rear bushing as well. = two in the front one in the rear per side. the rear is a different size.
OME is old school, I would look into Dobinson springs as the have a better ride JMHO ;)
 

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