FZJ80 Cable upgrade (1 Viewer)

[Otamiway]

I also picked up the military terminals from them(Wrangler NW) too.. Fourrunner's cables are excellent and would'nt hesitate to have him build them if you dont go with a "Kit"

 

[The Nak]

Is anyone running these cables with the mil-spec terminals and a DieHard PM-1? Those terminals look pretty big and I was wondering if there was any interference with the stud/post design on the top of the PM-1.

 

[ironhippy]

Is anyone running these cables with the mil-spec terminals and a DieHard PM-1? Those terminals look pretty big and I was wondering if there was any interference with the stud/post design on the top of the PM-1.

I am not running those cables, but I am running those terminals and a PM-1, there is some fiddling required, but it all fit.

I would like to ask about the fusible link. If you are not replacing or removing the fusible link when upgrading the alternator cable, are you in risk of the electricity following that path and blowing the link or restricting the voltage?

I am obviously not overly versed in electrical wiring, but I am not sure why it isn't necessary to disconnect the stock alternator to battery wiring when upgrading the alternator to battery cable.

 

[Otamiway]

I would like to ask about the fusible link. If you are not replacing or removing the fusible link when upgrading the alternator cable, are you in risk of the electricity following that path and blowing the link or restricting the voltage?

I am obviously not overly versed in electrical wiring, but I am not sure why it isn't necessary to disconnect the stock alternator to battery wiring when upgrading the alternator to battery cable.

So the final setup is as follows:

1. 1st Upgraded Cable from Alternator to 200 amp Fuse
2. Original cable connected before fuse with the 1st Upgraded Cable
3. 2nd Upgraded cable from fuse to Battery terminal

This keeps everything as close to stock as possible.

Remember... Your system, through the fusible link, only draws the power it needs. So there is no risk of the upgraded Amps blowing the fusible links.

You can take out the original main leads if you like... I just chose not to.


Stu

 

[ontopofm]

After reading a couple threads on cable upgrades, I decided to contact Mark (FourRunner) for a set on his cables

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/479096-fzj80-heavy-duty-battery-cable-sets.html

I went one step further and had Mark make me a custom 2 piece 1/0 Alternator cable. Thanks to Poppy Walnut's thread for the idea. I added a 200 amp fuse in anticipation of doing the Photoman 150amp upgrade soon
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/525391-battery-rewire-finished-results.html

This weekend I started the install.. I was only to get to the Fender ground, the alternator cable, Block ground and Starter cable.

I am very impressed with the quality on the cables. Thanks Mark

Can you tell me where the 2 shortest black cables go? I figured the short fat cable goes from battery to chassis. Am I right? Thanks

 

[Fourrunner]

Let me know if you haven't gotten it squared away.

 

[ontopofm]

Let me know if you haven't gotten it squared away.

I found where they go. Started up normal with the Sequoia 150A alternator, idle stable, nothing funny, but I forgot to check if my ds front window goes up faster. Can't drive the car yet as I am waiting for 1 broken knuckle stud replacement. Thanks for the superb quality cables.

 

[Otamiway]

I found where they go. Started up normal with the Sequoia 150A alternator, idle stable, nothing funny, but I forgot to check if my ds front window goes up faster. Can't drive the car yet as I am waiting for 1 broken knuckle stud replacement. Thanks for the superb quality cables.

Glad you figured it out, sorry wasn't able to get to you sooner... Good Stuff

 

[Fourrunner]

Excellent...glad you got it together. For the slow window, I had similar issues with my old fourrunner. I cleaned the switch up (disassembled and cleaned the contacts) and it worked awesome. Might try that.

 

[bonestock]

Quick question on the fusable links.

Mine appear to be spliced into the currently installed cable running from the POS (+) battery terminal to the starter. I’m in the process of getting it removed but it’s wrapped in with the NEG (-) cable that runs to the block.

Upon removal, where are the fusable link(s) supposed to draw their power upon reinstall?

Someone has obviously been in here before and done a mediocre job. Hope to not be forced to reinvent the wheel to complete this install.

Appreciate any quick responses as I’m trying to knock this out tomorrow morning.
Thanks!

 

[bonestock]

***UPDATE***
My confusion came froM a jack leg extension the PO installed in-line on the POS cable. I was able to create enough slack to route the 3 wires from the fusable link to the POS batt term utilizing the mil spec terminals.

 

[icorradoi]

Are you guys completely removing the OEM negative cable from the harness that it is wrapped into, or are you just leaving it in the engine bay, disconnected?

 

[bonestock]

Are you guys completely removing the OEM negative cable from the harness that it is wrapped into, or are you just leaving it in the engine bay, disconnected?

I completely removed mine.

 

[Benbmore3d]

More pics

The block ground could have been about 2 inches longer. The original ground had a right angle ring end terminal. I will take a better picture of it. I also had to ditch the grey plastic cover on the starter. As you can see the new Red booth fit like a glove.
View attachment 578558View attachment 578559View attachment 578560

How did you ever reach the starter connection with the grey plastic cover? Seems almost impossible. I can already tell i need to remove my oil filter. Thanks for any assistance!

Ben

 

[lumbee1]

How did you ever reach the starter connection with the grey plastic cover? Seems almost impossible. I can already tell i need to remove my oil filter. Thanks for any assistance!

Ben

Access the starter through the wheel well. Remove the plastic cover. It won't fit with the new cable. The starter cable I received was a bit on the long side. I had to bend it and tie it up the block ground.

 

[Benbmore3d]

Access the starter through the wheel well. Remove the plastic cover. It won't fit with the new cable. The starter cable I received was a bit on the long side. I had to bend it and tie it up the block ground.

Aha....wheel well! Thanks dude!

 

[lumbee1]

Aha....wheel well! Thanks dude!

get a dedicated panel clip remover tool and it takes 10 seconds to remove the liner.

 

[RyanTomorrow]

I’m elbow deep into installing @Fourrunner cables, and I have run into the inevitable “stuck last bolt” - in my case, the 14mm on the block holding the other end of the negative cable.

Any protips to removing it? Can’t get the impact wrench in there. Am I going to have to remove my oil filter?

So close. So close.

 

[Benbmore3d]

I’m elbow deep into installing @Fourrunner cables, and I have run into the inevitable “stuck last bolt” - in my case, the 14mm on the block holding the other end of the negative cable.

Any protips to removing it? Can’t get the impact wrench in there. Am I going to have to remove my oil filter?

So close. So close.

I got in with an extension and just gave it all I had. I sprayed it thoroughly with pb. Not sure how much the spray helped. Good luck

 

[lumbee1]

I got in with an extension and just gave it all I had. I sprayed it thoroughly with pb. Not sure how much the spray helped. Good luck

Same here, LOTS of extensions. I think I used three and not of the best quality. 1/4" impact removed it no problem.

@RyanTomorrow you did remove the fender liner right? Once you do that, throw a flashlight in there and you can see the block bolt. I never came close to my oil filter.