FZJ80 Cable upgrade (2 Viewers)

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I had not removed the fender liner (I’m assuming you mean the rubber one at the back of the wheel well, with wheel removed?)

I’ll give that a shot tonight, after a trip to HD for some extensions. Had a nightmare last night I broke the head off of it - not how one wants to wake up.
 
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I had not removed the fender liner (I’m assuming you mean the rubber one at the back of the wheel well, with wheel removed?)

I’ll give that a shot tonight, after a trip to HD for some extensions. Had a nightmare last night I broke the head off of it - not how one wants to wake up.

Yep, sneak it around the rubber liner with lots of extensions and a long bar to break it loose.
 
This worked brilliantly! Thanks!

...of course, soon after this I managed to break off the negative ground bolt IN the block. So, now what?
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Also, I can turn the headlights on and off without the key (I have a 97). They turn off automatically when I switch the key off, but I can turn them off and on via the stalk without the key in. I can’t remember now if this is normal operation?

Yiddish word of the day: Farpotshket. Means: it’s broken because someone tried to fix it.:bang::bang:
 
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The headlights don’t normally come on without the key in for the ‘97 LX450. Likely the same for other FJ80’s.
 
This worked brilliantly! Thanks!

...of course, soon after this I managed to break off the negative ground bolt IN the block. So, now what? View attachment 2378739View attachment 2378740
Also, I can turn the headlights on and off without the key (I have a 97). They turn off automatically when I switch the key off, but I can turn them off and on via the stalk without the key in. I can’t remember now if this is normal operation?

Yiddish word of the day: Farpotshket. Means: it’s broken because someone tried to fix it.:bang::bang:
Now you see about getting some extraction hardware. That bolt looks pretty dry, did you put any pb blast or equivalent on it? I wonder if you can just relocate the ground wire??🤔
 
Finally got the last wire attached. Kit lives up to its reputation, really well made. I ended up getting the higher end sheathing which combined with the gauge made the cables a little...opinionated as to how they want to route, but with some patience got everything lined up. Thanks @Fourrunner
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More pics

The block ground could have been about 2 inches longer. The original ground had a right angle ring end terminal. I will take a better picture of it. I also had to ditch the grey plastic cover on the starter. As you can see the new Red booth fit like a glove.
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good morning I just got a set of these cables and have completed the ground install I am absolutely amazed at the difference. My air conditioner fan used to slow at idle a little bit voltage drop I assume not anymore

Where did you get the red boot for the starter?
 
The boot came with my upgraded cable ☺️
 
The boot came with my upgraded cable ☺️
I'll check with @Fourrunner
Thanks
These cables are amazing! I've an electrician for over 25 years the quality of these cables is unsurpassed. I highly recommend them!
 
I bought Fourrunners wiring last year and am finally doing the install with the Slee upgraded headlight harness. Went in with no problems. I do want to put a 150 amp or 200 amp fuse in line with the positive cable though (did the Sequoia/Photoman upgrade too!).
 
There great cables aren't they.
The the alternator upgrade looks pretty sweet. I noticed in my 80 and I guess it's common with the air conditioner on full blast the fan slows down a little bit when I'm down at idle. Little voltage drop.

I figured the alternator upgrade should solve all that.
 
I installed @Fourrunner cables last year. Super beefy to match the Land Cruiser. He also supplied me with an alternator cable. I built a replacement fusible link to match what Toyota originally had installed on the truck.

Fourrunner cable vs OEM
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Fusible link difference
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Gotta say, @Fourrunner Great cables! Will definitely be coming to you for the alternator wire upgrade!
The ground to the block was a little tricky. PB blaster and 6-7 extensions on the impact on low and it broke free smoothly.
Yeah the ground of the block was sketchy. I kept feeling it twist and was afraid it might break.

I hit the bolt with a little propane torch as usual that help break it free.
 
Pro tip: Before your start the cable swaps, spray down the engine block ground bolt with your favorite penetrant and run your engine until its hot. The penetrant will vaporize but some will have been sucked into the bolt recess. Shut off the vehicle and spray down the bolt again with the penetrant. Use a ratchet and extension and break the bolt free while laying underneath the engine. The bolt should break free with little effort.
 
I got my @Fourrunner cables installed this weekend, and except for a trip to HF to get a bolt extractor (yeah, the damn 14mm on the block wanted to fight), it’s a pretty easy mod. Cables are super solid and makes me think I made a long term improvement to my FZJ80

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