FZJ 80 Axle Swap into 98 100 series

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Rear axle is much wider than the front axle off the 80 due to very different wheel offsets. And typically you want a wider track in the front, not vice versa.

Are you going to run 80 series radius arms? Steering box? Doubt you will be done by christmas but best of luck

The narrower front and rear axle of 80 will allow you to put a wide a$$$ tires 15.50!!!
 
Alright, Day 1 of the SAS went pretty well, I was able to install the rear lift. 5 Inch OME springs and 5 Inch OME shocks and an OME adjustable Panhard for the additional lift. I forgot to buy some parts so the rear lug nut conversion got put on hold. I decided to start tearing the IFS apart. I got all the IFS removed and chopped out the rack and pinion mount so there is no turning back. I had to drive about an hour to go get tires and rims. I set them next to the vehicle to see how it would look. Tomorrow I will be welding up the axle shafts and then drilling a new 6x139.7 lug pattern. My end goal for tomorrow is to have the rear completed and tires mounted.
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Thanks for sharing this. By the time I re-did my entire front end I was probably better off $$$$ wise with a SAS for my goals...
 
Question, rear rotors from 80 Full floater or welding up and drilling stock rotors? I guess a guy could go with spacers/adapters to 6 bolt if trying to build on a budget...
 
Question, rear rotors from 80 Full floater or welding up and drilling stock rotors? I guess a guy could go with spacers/adapters to 6 bolt if trying to build on a budget...
I think that wouldn't be a bad idea to convert the front to 5x150 if you were trying to save some money and match or exceed the rear axle width, but the stock 100 axle is significantly wider than the 80 front if I remember correctly.
 
I think that wouldn't be a bad idea to convert the front to 5x150 if you were trying to save some money and match or exceed the rear axle width, but the stock 100 axle is significantly wider than the 80 front if I remember correctly.

Yes of course, that would make more sense. Then keep stock wheels for mall cruiser sleeper. :)
 
You might be better off running wheel adapters to 5-lug in the front and keeping the rear 5 to even the width out.
 
I'll be using rear rotors out of an 80

If you are using a 80 Series rotors buy an upgraded one Like DB4000 4x4 Series with hawk pads. It will last you longer and better braking power. 80 Series brakes are not as good as 100 series. My factory 80 series only lasted 8 months when I did the conversion so far the DB 4000 is about 2.5 years old about 35K miles (had to turn them once). Just an FYI DB4000 series are harder to come by, I have been waiting for my front one for about six months. I have them on order just in case mine decides to go.
 
Alright, Day 1 of the SAS went pretty well, I was able to install the rear lift. 5 Inch OME springs and 5 Inch OME shocks and an OME adjustable Panhard for the additional lift. I forgot to buy some parts so the rear lug nut conversion got put on hold. I decided to start tearing the IFS apart. I got all the IFS removed and chopped out the rack and pinion mount so there is no turning back. I had to drive about an hour to go get tires and rims. I set them next to the vehicle to see how it would look. Tomorrow I will be welding up the axle shafts and then drilling a new 6x139.7 lug pattern. My end goal for tomorrow is to have the rear completed and tires mounted.
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What size are those tires? If they are 36" or above, and your are planning on using steering rack from the 80 series and planning on mounting on the frame. I strongly suggest you get a hydraulic ram system to help your factory rack and prevent you from cracking your frame from all that torque. Ask me how I know.... Besides the RAM system will help stabilize your steering. It was night and day difference with mine.
 
This is like watching an action movie! I get to see and admire things I will never attempt in my life.

Here's a thought: wouldn't it be easier to source a 105 front axle and swap it in? Would it allow to retain most of the steering components and the torsion bars, hubs etc?
 
This is like watching an action movie! I get to see and admire things I will never attempt in my life.

Here's a thought: wouldn't it be easier to source a 105 front axle and swap it in? Would it allow to retain most of the steering components and the torsion bars, hubs etc?
No, totally different animals. 105s axles don't use the IFS bits... No control arms, torsion bars, steering gear, spring mounts, nothing.
 
This is like watching an action movie! I get to see and admire things I will never attempt in my life.

Here's a thought: wouldn't it be easier to source a 105 front axle and swap it in? Would it allow to retain most of the steering components and the torsion bars, hubs etc?

No, totally different animals. 105s axles don't use the IFS bits... No control arms, torsion bars, steering gear, spring mounts, nothing.

But, yes, some of this would be easier if a 105 axle was used.
 
Today was a really good day on the build. I am re drilling the axle shafts to the new 6x139.7 lug pattern. I popped the old wheel studs out and I welded up the wheel stud holes and I am going to finish re drilling the axle shaft tomorrow. I have been burning through drill bits and tried a few options, so I didn't get as far as I wanted. My goal for the end of the day tomorrow is to have the axles redialed with tires mounted. Then I plan on finishing chopping off all the IFS and prepping the frame for reinforcing.
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If you are using a 80 Series rotors buy an upgraded one Like DB4000 4x4 Series with hawk pads. It will last you longer and better braking power. 80 Series brakes are not as good as 100 series. My factory 80 series only lasted 8 months when I did the conversion so far the DB 4000 is about 2.5 years old about 35K miles (had to turn them once). Just an FYI DB4000 series are harder to come by, I have been waiting for my front one for about six months. I have them on order just in case mine decides to go.
I really appreciate it. I am only using the 80 rotor for rear brakes as of now and maintaining stock 80 front brakes and my budget is very limited for all the extras I would like to do. Also thank you for your input on steering. I will be using an 80 gear box and currently will be running 35s, but will go to 37s. Currently my plan is to reinforce the frame with some plate steel on both sides and I'm going to sleeve the bolts to have a reinforced frame on the inside.
 
I really appreciate it. I am only using the 80 rotor for rear brakes as of now and maintaining stock 80 front brakes and my budget is very limited for all the extras.

And @LX470Beast
How does the braking system match up? Master cylinder, ABS, VSC, ATRAC?
Do you use 100 components or 80 series for those parts?
Is braking computer happy with smaller brakes or does it work them extra hard?
 

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